September 20, 2024

At Sea between Vanuatu and Fiji

We had the normal range of lectures and conversations with the expedition team, which included nudibranches (soft bodied gastropod molluscs which shed their shells after the larval stage), seed dispersal in the Pacific and basic climatology.  Patrick and Miriam also attended a sunset Caviar and Champagne reception on the stern with ship’s officers and expedition team members for Diamond and Diamond Elite Seabourn Club members.  There are about 25 of us on board.  This gave us another opportunity to meet new people on board.

September 21, 2024

Landfall in Fiji occurred about 1000 local time when Seabourn Pursuit approached the reef, escorted by spotted dolphins cavorting around the bulbous bow.  The ship entered Navulu Passage reef entrance and proceeded some 28 nm inside the barrier reef surrounding the island of Viti Levu to the berth at Lautoka, Fiji. 

The approach to Vita Levu – Lautoka

Fiji gained independence from Great Britain in October 1970, but the British influence is still present including right hand drive vehicles.  Fiji has become a popular tourist destination, with tourism supplanting sugar cane as a major economic driver.  There were many yachts anchored all over the lagoon. Small cruise ships were also at anchor.

The east side of the island has a number of five star resorts at Denarau Island, just a short drive from Nadi, just an hour drive from Lautoka.

Seabourn had an included tour of a traditional Fijian village, with dances and kava, a walk through an orchid preserve and a stop for shopping in Nadi, the largest town.

At the Fijian village, long pants were the norm, since Fijian tradition requires knees to be covered, especially for women, hats were removed and we went to a large tent with chairs to watch the traditional dancing outside the church in the village.  Since missionaries arrived in Fiji, Christianity has become a dominant faith among the Fijian people, although all faiths are welcome.  This dominance has resulted in stores being closed on Sundays, and closed early on Saturday.  The dances and rituals we observed are a blend of traditional Fijian and modern day dances and music.  

Presenting the kava to the “chiefs”

Women’s Dance in front of church

Ceremonial Chief’s House

The warrior dance

The dancing was preceded by a traditional kava ceremony where two male guests were selected to represent the “tribe” visiting the village.  After the ceremony, Patrick also tasted the Fiji Kava, much weaker than Vanuatu, and not nearly as disgusting in taste or texture.

The village has also preserved the traditional thatched roof house of the chief, now used only for ceremonial purposes.  The chiefs house is modern and many Fijian houses are equipped with air conditioning, TV’s, washing machines, etc.  Most of the power comes from hydroelectric, although outlying villages depend on solar power.

The second stop was at the “Garden of the Sleeping Giant”, a nature preserve with many orchids, as well as other tropical plants.  The preserve was started by Raymond Burr, of Perry Mason and Ironsides fame.  Raymond Burr was well respected and loved by the Fijian people and he funded many scholarships for local people in addition to starting the preserve.  The “Sleeping Giant” refers to the outlines on the hills above that resemble the face and bodies of two sleeping people.

Orchid

Blue Orchid

Jade Vine

Red Ginger

Anthurium

The final stop of the tour was in the town of Nadi, at one of the few stores open after 4pm.  The stores had a wide variety of tourist items, none of which we needed.  On the drive we passed Hindu Temples, Moslem Mosques and many churches of all denominations, although the largest denomination is Methodist.

Returning to the ship after dark, all four buses arrived at the same time to be greeted by a massed ship’s company, with a red carpet, champagne, waving flags and “Dancing Queen” played and sung as we walked between the crew members on either side of the red carpet and boarded Seabourn Pursuit.  The ship had a late departure, casting off the mooring lines at 2200 for the 343 nm passage to our next port, Vulaga Island, Fiji.  We have now traveled 3750 nm since departing Guam.

September 20, 2024

At Sea between Vanuatu and Fiji

We had the normal range of lectures and conversations with the expedition team, which included nudibranches (soft bodied gastropod molluscs which shed their shells after the larval stage), seed dispersal in the Pacific and basic climatology.  Patrick and Miriam also attended a sunset Caviar and Champagne reception on the stern with ship’s officers and expedition team members for Diamond and Diamond Elite Seabourn Club members.  There are about 25 of us on board.  This gave us another opportunity to meet new people on board.

September 21, 2024

Landfall in Fiji occurred about 1000 local time when Seabourn Pursuit approached the reef, escorted by spotted dolphins cavorting around the bulbous bow.  The ship entered Navulu Passage reef entrance and proceeded some 28 nm inside the barrier reef surrounding the island of Viti Levu to the berth at Lautoka, Fiji. 

The approach to Vita Levu – Lautoka

Fiji gained independence from Great Britain in October 1970, but the British influence is still present including right hand drive vehicles.  Fiji has become a popular tourist destination, with tourism supplanting sugar cane as a major economic driver.  There were many yachts anchored all over the lagoon. Small cruise ships were also at anchor.

The east side of the island has a number of five star resorts at Denarau Island, just a short drive from Nadi, just an hour drive from Lautoka.

Seabourn had an included tour of a traditional Fijian village, with dances and kava, a walk through an orchid preserve and a stop for shopping in Nadi, the largest town.

At the Fijian village, long pants were the norm, since Fijian tradition requires knees to be covered, especially for women, hats were removed and we went to a large tent with chairs to watch the traditional dancing outside the church in the village.  Since missionaries arrived in Fiji, Christianity has become a dominant faith among the Fijian people, although all faiths are welcome.  This dominance has resulted in stores being closed on Sundays, and closed early on Saturday.  The dances and rituals we observed are a blend of traditional Fijian and modern day dances and music.  

Presenting the kava to the “chiefs”

Women’s Dance in front of church

Ceremonial Chief’s House

The warrior dance

The dancing was preceded by a traditional kava ceremony where two male guests were selected to represent the “tribe” visiting the village.  After the ceremony, Patrick also tasted the Fiji Kava, much weaker than Vanuatu, and not nearly as disgusting in taste or texture.

The village has also preserved the traditional thatched roof house of the chief, now used only for ceremonial purposes.  The chiefs house is modern and many Fijian houses are equipped with air conditioning, TV’s, washing machines, etc.  Most of the power comes from hydroelectric, although outlying villages depend on solar power.

The second stop was at the “Garden of the Sleeping Giant”, a nature preserve with many orchids, as well as other tropical plants.  The preserve was started by Raymond Burr, of Perry Mason and Ironsides fame.  Raymond Burr was well respected and loved by the Fijian people and he funded many scholarships for local people in addition to starting the preserve.  The “Sleeping Giant” refers to the outlines on the hills above that resemble the face and bodies of two sleeping people.

Orchid

Blue Orchid

Jade Vine

Red Ginger

Anthurium

The final stop of the tour was in the town of Nadi, at one of the few stores open after 4pm.  The stores had a wide variety of tourist items, none of which we needed.  On the drive we passed Hindu Temples, Moslem Mosques and many churches of all denominations, although the largest denomination is Methodist.

Returning to the ship after dark, all four buses arrived at the same time to be greeted by a massed ship’s company, with a red carpet, champagne, waving flags and “Dancing Queen” played and sung as we walked between the crew members on either side of the red carpet and boarded Seabourn Pursuit.  The ship had a late departure, casting off the mooring lines at 2200 for the 343 nm passage to our next port, Vulaga Island, Fiji.  We have now traveled 3750 nm since departing Guam.

 Guam to Chile – Blog Post 7

September 17, 2024

Departing Honiara on Guam at 1800, Seabourn Pursuit proceeded east once more for the 600 nm voyage to Espiritu Santo, in Vanuatu.  Our destination was the town of Luganville.

Wednesday, September 18, 2024

The route from Guadalcanal to Luganville, Vanuatu

After leaving Honiara, we were now in the Solomon Sea.  This area was named after the Solomon Islands from the legendary biblical land of Ophir, which the Spanish were searching for on their first voyage in 1568.  The land of Ophir was reputed to be the source of Solomon’s wealth.  The Solomon Sea includes the New Britain Trench which reaches a depth of nearly 30,000 feet in the New Britain subduction zone.

The weather continued to be somewhat rough with winds of 20-30 knots and seas to 3 meters, which made for an uncomfortable ride.

The lectures today included ones on the culture of Vanuatu, connecting to wilderness, kayaking history, and coral reefs, why are they disappearing.

Thursday, September 19, 2024

Seabourn Pursuit made a leisurely approach into Luganville, Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu which turned out to be a mistake.  The ship docked by 1100, and only then informed by local officials that due to biosecurity regulations the ship would have to leave by 3:30 pm, rather than 6:00 pm.  This is due to an infestation of the Rhinoceros Beetle in Vanuatu, which is decimating coconut palms and other crops.  The beetles swarm at night, are attracted to light and therefore all ships must leave well before dusk to avoid transporting more beetles to other islands.  The beetles have, despite expensive eradication measures, gradually spread to many Pacific islands, with significant economic impact.

During WWII, Luganville was a major military installation.  At the end of the war, instead of shipping the war materials back to the states, those materials were just dumped into the ocean.  Not acceptable today, but that decision has contributed significantly to diving and snorkeling tourism today.  The ship passed close to “Million Dollar Point”, referring to the values of the wrecks scuttled there.

That meant all afternoon activities were cancelled, including Patrick’s Submersible dive on the wreck of the President Coolidge, as well of Miriam’s excursion to a demonstration of firewalking.  The President Coolidge was a converted liner used as a troopship that navigated poorly and was hit by US mines in the channel protecting Luganville.  All 5000 people on board got off safely, but the ship slid down the sloping beach and now rests on it’s side in 20-70 meters of water.

 The Seabourn Pursuit crew made some quick adjustments and Patrick, Miriam and Julie were all able to go to the Runsuc Village demonstration of dances, firewalking, sand painting, kava making, and cooking. 

Making Kava

Cooking Spinach and Tapioca in Bamboo

The young dancers were delightful

Preparing the firewalk

The chief doing sand painting

The attractive woven mats used everywhere

The chief starting his firewalk on the hot stones

 Pentecost Island in Vanuatu is also known for the practice of land diving headfirst off bamboo towers 20-30 meters tall with local vines tied around their feet and touching just their head to the ground.  The contests are only done in certain seasons when the liana vines are flexible enough, so we did not get to see that. Patrick tasted the kava, which we watched being made and which made dishwater appealing as a beverage, both from taste and appearance.  Although no submersible trips were made, it was still an enjoyable day.  The ship managed to depart on the revised schedule at 3:30 and started the voyage to our next destination, some 600+ nm away in Lautoka, Fiji

 Guam to Chile – Blog Post 7

September 17, 2024

Departing Honiara on Guam at 1800, Seabourn Pursuit proceeded east once more for the 600 nm voyage to Espiritu Santo, in Vanuatu.  Our destination was the town of Luganville.

Wednesday, September 18, 2024

The route from Guadalcanal to Luganville, Vanuatu

After leaving Honiara, we were now in the Solomon Sea.  This area was named after the Solomon Islands from the legendary biblical land of Ophir, which the Spanish were searching for on their first voyage in 1568.  The land of Ophir was reputed to be the source of Solomon’s wealth.  The Solomon Sea includes the New Britain Trench which reaches a depth of nearly 30,000 feet in the New Britain subduction zone.

The weather continued to be somewhat rough with winds of 20-30 knots and seas to 3 meters, which made for an uncomfortable ride.

The lectures today included ones on the culture of Vanuatu, connecting to wilderness, kayaking history, and coral reefs, why are they disappearing.

Thursday, September 19, 2024

Seabourn Pursuit made a leisurely approach into Luganville, Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu which turned out to be a mistake.  The ship docked by 1100, and only then informed by local officials that due to biosecurity regulations the ship would have to leave by 3:30 pm, rather than 6:00 pm.  This is due to an infestation of the Rhinoceros Beetle in Vanuatu, which is decimating coconut palms and other crops.  The beetles swarm at night, are attracted to light and therefore all ships must leave well before dusk to avoid transporting more beetles to other islands.  The beetles have, despite expensive eradication measures, gradually spread to many Pacific islands, with significant economic impact.

During WWII, Luganville was a major military installation.  At the end of the war, instead of shipping the war materials back to the states, those materials were just dumped into the ocean.  Not acceptable today, but that decision has contributed significantly to diving and snorkeling tourism today.  The ship passed close to “Million Dollar Point”, referring to the values of the wrecks scuttled there.

That meant all afternoon activities were cancelled, including Patrick’s Submersible dive on the wreck of the President Coolidge, as well of Miriam’s excursion to a demonstration of firewalking.  The President Coolidge was a converted liner used as a troopship that navigated poorly and was hit by US mines in the channel protecting Luganville.  All 5000 people on board got off safely, but the ship slid down the sloping beach and now rests on it’s side in 20-70 meters of water.

 The Seabourn Pursuit crew made some quick adjustments and Patrick, Miriam and Julie were all able to go to the Runsuc Village demonstration of dances, firewalking, sand painting, kava making, and cooking. 

Making Kava

Cooking Spinach and Tapioca in Bamboo

The young dancers were delightful

Preparing the firewalk

The chief doing sand painting

The attractive woven mats used everywhere

The chief starting his firewalk on the hot stones

 Pentecost Island in Vanuatu is also known for the practice of land diving headfirst off bamboo towers 20-30 meters tall with local vines tied around their feet and touching just their head to the ground.  The contests are only done in certain seasons when the liana vines are flexible enough, so we did not get to see that. Patrick tasted the kava, which we watched being made and which made dishwater appealing as a beverage, both from taste and appearance.  Although no submersible trips were made, it was still an enjoyable day.  The ship managed to depart on the revised schedule at 3:30 and started the voyage to our next destination, some 600+ nm away in Lautoka, Fiji