Sept. 18 – Exploring the Northern Coast of Madeira

By on September 18, 2024 in The Pearl

“If you find yourself having to tiptoe around others, you’re not walking amongst your tribe.” -Tanya Markul 


We started our morning with breakfast in the yard of our Inn. The view, the service and the food was fantastic. It is so peaceful here. Today we drove west along the north side of Madeira. Our first stop of the day was at the lighthouse in São Jorge. It was very close to where we had dinner last night. From there we took in the sights wherever we could find a look out. The closer we got to the west end of the island the clearer the skies became. People have told us if we don’t like the weather where we are…just drive somewhere else in Madeira and you can find a little sunshine. It seems to be true. The clouds roll in and out very quickly.

It was a little chilly this morning. I took this picture when I came up to the room to get a jacket.
Ponta de São Jorge Lighthouse is an active lighthouse located on the north coast of the island of Madeira. The lighthouse was built in 1959. 
Looking down on part of São Jorge.
Views in Boaventura valley. No tunnels here. You drive up and around the valley. It was so pretty.
The town of Boaventura.
Chapel of Our Lady of Fatima in São Vicente is one of the most scenic churches in Europe. It was built in 1948 to celebrate the end of World War II. We climbed 200 and were rewarded with stunning views. 
Views from the Chapel of Our Lady of Fatima in São Vicente.
Just past São Vicente was this amazing waterfall called Cascata Água d’Alto. It drops from the mountain and runs under the road to the sea. It’s one of the highest on the island at 494′. Can you see the tunnel?
Less than two miles from the first waterfall we stopped at there was a lookout that was the perfect spot to see the coastline and the Córrego da Furna Waterfall. It has a drop of 192′
From the same overlook we could see the little beach town of Seixal. It has Madeira’s only black sand beach and several natural pools.
Seixal Black sand beach…can you see the waterfall. Madeira only has a few sand beaches. Most are rocky and not good for swimming.
We stopped at a little café for lunch that overlooked the natural public swimming pool. We only had a few ponchas and bolo do coca (wonderful garlic bread). I put my feet in the pool and it felt nice.
After lunch we headed further west. By now the day was beautiful.
We took a small local road instead of the tunnel and found this beautiful spot and another waterfall. 
Our next stop was at Ilheus da Ribeira da Janela. This is one of the most iconic viewpoints on the island, looking onto several uniquely shaped rocks that protrude from the ocean floor. There were hundreds of cairns along the beach. I don’t know how they got some of them to balance.
From Ribeira da Janela we could see our next stop…Porto Moniz.

These are just a few of the natural pools in Porto Moniz. I will have more about these pools in the next post. On the high in the background is Ilhéu Mole Lighthouse.
Our last stop of the day was on the far west side at Achadas da Cruz Cable Car. The car that took us to one of the most unique spots in Madeira, Fajã da Quebrada Nova. It’s a tiny place on the northwestern coast of the island that is isolated from the rest of the world by the tall mountain cliffs on one side and the ocean on the other. The cable car serves tourists and local farmers. In fact a cable car was installed to help the farmers transport their harvests.

This cable car goes down almost 1,500′ at a 98% slope. It’s the Europe’s Steepest Cable Car

This was by far the hottest place we went on the island. Very dry and very warm. It was interesting but we definitely wouldn’t wait in line to do this again. By the time we got to the bottom we didn’t have a lot of time to look around before we had to get in line to come back up.

We read while doing research that you could actually spend the night in the little village at the bottom. You have to bring everything with you.

Port Townsend to Bainbridge Island (via San Juan Islands)

By on September 18, 2024 in M/V Alpenglow

2023-04-006xGetting hauled out and having your boat worked on is always stressful. Since we have no land-based living accommodations in the area, we continue to “live” on the boat while it sits on stands in the boatyard. That means we can’t spill any water overboard, black (most certainly!) or even grey. We do have holding tanks for both kinds, but they are not so large that they can be used for much more than a week of “normal” use. Consequently, we try to put nothing in the holding tanks. That means no cooking beyond boiling water and using on shore toilet & shower facilities.

2024-Cruise-202xBoatyards are usually dusty because of the sanding and grinding, either on your boat or other boats in the yard. There can be lots of foot traffic from the coming and going of the workers doing the work. Each new foot brings a little more dust on board.

On our work list for the folks at the Port Townsend Shipwrights Coop (PTSC) were routine maintenance items (e.g., bottom paint, new sacrificial anodes), repairing failed/failing items (e.g., the anchor windlass), and upgrading components. We spent 11 days out of the water, being hauled out on Monday, 8/19 and launching on Thursday, 8/29. We spent the night after launching in Port Townsend before departing on Friday, 8/30.

The last several years we have spent 1 – 2 weeks at the end of our cruising season in the San Juans. While it is still crowded compared to SE Alaska, September, after Labor Day, isn’t quite as crowded as in July and August. Setting realistic expectations is the key. If you expect to share the anchorage with 40 other boats, you shouldn’t be upset if it turns to be true. And if there are only 35 boats, you’re ahead of the game.

2018-Cruise-391xThe nice thing about San Juan Islands is how compact they are. Twenty-five miles is probably the furthest you’d have to travel to get from any two anchorages on any of the islands. With good shore access at the many parks, it encourages a slow pace. As a result, Drake gets frequent walks and ball play when we visit. This year we stopped at Reid Harbor (Stuart Island), Garrison Bay (San Juan Islalnd), Griffin Bay (San Juan Island), Deer Harbor (Orcas Island), Fisherman’s Bay (Lopez Island) and, Echo Bay (Sucia Island). We used Hunter Bay (Lopez Island) as our last stop before crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca and slogging down Admiralty Inlet on the way to our home port in Eagle Harbor on Bainbridge Island.

We arrived Eagle Harbor in the early afternoon on Sunday, September 15. In total, we were gone 135 days but I am going to attribute13 days as time in the boatyard and not count them. Of the 121 nights out on the cruise, 73 were at anchor while 48 days were on docks. We put on 3,091 miles in 503 cruising hours (we had an additional 27 engine hours trolling or idling while fishing (mostly deploying or retrieving prawn pots).

Port Townsend to Bainbridge Island (via San Juan Islands)

By on September 18, 2024 in M/V Alpenglow

2023-04-006xGetting hauled out and having your boat worked on is always stressful. Since we have no land-based living accommodations in the area, we continue to “live” on the boat while it sits on stands in the boatyard. That means we can’t spill any water overboard, black (most certainly!) or even grey. We do have holding tanks for both kinds, but they are not so large that they can be used for much more than a week of “normal” use. Consequently, we try to put nothing in the holding tanks. That means no cooking beyond boiling water and using on shore toilet & shower facilities.

2024-Cruise-202xBoatyards are usually dusty because of the sanding and grinding, either on your boat or other boats in the yard. There can be lots of foot traffic from the coming and going of the workers doing the work. Each new foot brings a little more dust on board.

On our work list for the folks at the Port Townsend Shipwrights Coop (PTSC) were routine maintenance items (e.g., bottom paint, new sacrificial anodes), repairing failed/failing items (e.g., the anchor windlass), and upgrading components. We spent 11 days out of the water, being hauled out on Monday, 8/19 and launching on Thursday, 8/29. We spent the night after launching in Port Townsend before departing on Friday, 8/30.

The last several years we have spent 1 – 2 weeks at the end of our cruising season in the San Juans. While it is still crowded compared to SE Alaska, September, after Labor Day, isn’t quite as crowded as in July and August. Setting realistic expectations is the key. If you expect to share the anchorage with 40 other boats, you shouldn’t be upset if it turns to be true. And if there are only 35 boats, you’re ahead of the game.

2018-Cruise-391xThe nice thing about San Juan Islands is how compact they are. Twenty-five miles is probably the furthest you’d have to travel to get from any two anchorages on any of the islands. With good shore access at the many parks, it encourages a slow pace. As a result, Drake gets frequent walks and ball play when we visit. This year we stopped at Reid Harbor (Stuart Island), Garrison Bay (San Juan Islalnd), Griffin Bay (San Juan Island), Deer Harbor (Orcas Island), Fisherman’s Bay (Lopez Island) and, Echo Bay (Sucia Island). We used Hunter Bay (Lopez Island) as our last stop before crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca and slogging down Admiralty Inlet on the way to our home port in Eagle Harbor on Bainbridge Island.

We arrived Eagle Harbor in the early afternoon on Sunday, September 15. In total, we were gone 135 days but I am going to attribute13 days as time in the boatyard and not count them. Of the 121 nights out on the cruise, 73 were at anchor while 48 days were on docks. We put on 3,091 miles in 503 cruising hours (we had an additional 27 engine hours trolling or idling while fishing (mostly deploying or retrieving prawn pots).

Guam to Chile – Blog Post 6

By on September 17, 2024 in Spirit

September 14, 15 2024 At Sea between Pohnpei and Bakawari, Papua New Guinea

Departing Pohnpei about 1930, Seabourn Pursuit continued south overnight.  The wind and swell were on the beam, with the seas about 10 feet at 9 second period, so the ship had moderate roll motions.  This wave height is typical for the Pacific Ocean, which has an average wave height of 3 meters.

The sunrise was spectacular once again and we had no rain all day.  At 1400 we held the Equator crossing ceremony and my sister, Julie, being a Polliwog, was inducted during the ceremony into being a Shellback, so we now had permission from King Neptune to cross the equator with no Polliwogs on board.

Lectures today included one on Seabirds and another on mangrove swamps.

September 15, 2024 – At Sea

September 16, 2024

The Seabourn Pursuit took up position off Bakawari Island, Papua New Guinea at 0600.  

Bakawari Island lies next to Bougainville Island
Papau New Guinea

The ship was cleared by the local authorities about 0700 and Patrick headed off for a Kayak excursion.  At 0830, other guests were shuttled ashore in color groups and were treated to a folkloric performance by three local groups on Bakawari Island.  The kayak tour finished just in time to be delivered to the beach for the performance.


Dancing at Bakawari Island

Some of the bamboo flutes used by the performers
Native canoes fishing

Coral formation while kayaking

Native Canoe


By 1200, all guests were back on board and Seabourn Pursuit headed for Honiara, Guadalcanal, Solomon Islands, our next destination.  Our route takes the ship down the “Slot”, through Bougainville Straits and past Savo Island before docking at Honiara.

The area we are transiting is larger than we expected.  The distance from Bakawari Island to Honiara, Guadalcanal is 335 NM.  To make that distance overnight means Seabourn Pursuit has to average more than 15 knots.  Fortunately the seas and wind are favorable.

One of the reasons for making this cruise is the opportunity to visit locations in which my father served while in the USN in WWII. 

This morning, with calm seas and sunny skies, we are approaching Savo Island and will pass by the final resting place of the USS Astoria, which sank following a fierce night battle just off Savo Island, only two days after the USMC landed at Red Beach on Guadalcanal.  The night of August 9, 1942, a night attack by the Japanese navy caught the allies off guard.  Four heavy cruisers were sunk, three US and one Australian.  Three cruisers were sunk in just a few minutes between 0230 and 0300.  The USS Astoria did not sink immediately, but was badly damaged.  The crew initially abandoned ship, but later 350 crew returned to try and save the ship.  My father was one of those who returned to the ship.  He told us about jumping off the bow initially, and returning to collect the bodies of those killed and preparing them for burial by sewing the corpses into hammocks while eating stewed tomatoes since the galleys were unusable and on fire.  Initially we were skeptical of some aspects of that story, but when we saw the same story in other eyewitness accounts, we were convinced he had survived a horrific experience.

However, the crews’ efforts were in vain, as underwater explosions in the bow area fatally damaged USS Astoria (my father was aft at that time).  The ship was abandoned once again and at 1215 that day, August 9, 1942 the USS Astoria listed 30 degrees, then capsized and sank stern first in 2800 feet of water about 2 miles from Savo Island.  More than 247 sailors perished and another 250 were wounded.  It was the worst defeat at sea for the US Navy, excluding Pearl Harbor.  The USS Astoria was rediscovered by Paul Allen in 2015, in 2800 feet of water, with the bow missing.

The bridge display as we were at closest point to Astoria

Last known phot of Astoria, one day before sinking

Photo of Astoria remains by Paul Allen

Savo Island



We wer fortunate to be on the bridge of Seabourn Pursuit when we passed just 2.85 nm from the location of the USS Astoria.  We observed several minutes of silence in memory of the hundreds of navy personnel who died in that action on both the Astoria and the other three ships.

My father was then reassigned to the destroyer USS Blue.  That ship was torpedoed on August 22, 1942 and scuttled on August 23, 1942, after unsuccessful attempts to save her.  My father also survived that sinking.

USS Blue – DD-387



The area between Savo Island and Guadalcanal has been named Iron Bottom Sound, since more than 50 allied and Japanese ships were sunk in the 7 month Guadalcanal campaign.  Iron Bottom Sound is considered a sacred place due to all the people who perished and whose remains went to the bottom.  Guadalcanal and the Solomon Islands campaigns marked the beginning of the successful, but bloody island hopping strategy which the Allies used to eventually defeat Japan.

The Battle of Savo Island was also a turning point for the US and it’s allies in that the Japanese failed to destroy the troop transports and supply ships lying off of Red Beach, just a few miles from the Savo Island battle, instead withdrawing after destroying the four heavy cruisers.  The pattern of tactical victory but strategic mistake would persist throughout the war.

Seabourn Pursuit docked at the container port in Honiara, Guadalcanal at 1100, and by 1140 we were on a bus tour of the Eastern Battlefields of the Guadalcanal campaign.  

Honiara is the capital of the Solomon Islands, a sprawling independent nation with more than 95 major islands and a total population of more than 700,000.  Honiara has a population of about 65,000.  This island nation is being impacted by climate change, with sea levels rising 8 mm per year, more than the average worldwide. The evidence of WWII is still present, with significant amounts of unexploded munitions still being discovered 82 years later.

The first tour stop was at Red Beach, where the USMC landed on August 7, 1942, with little opposition.  That was soon to change as the USMC took control of Henderson field (our second stop) and set up defensive perimeters, including one at “Bloody Ridge”, our third stop of the tour.  We finished the tour with visits to the Japanese War Memorial and the the US War Memorial.  The Guadalcanal took seven months to achieve victory, with more than 7,000 Allied deaths and more than 19,000 Japanese deaths.


Monument at Red Beach

Red Beach

Memorial Park at Henderson Field

View from Bloody Ridge

Monument at Bloody Ridge

Japanese War Memorial

View of Savo Island from US Memorial

Battle of Savo Island at Memorial


List of US Ships sunk at Guadalcanal


At 1800, Seabourn Pursuit cast off the lines and continued the journey in Melanesia.  Our next port of call is Luganville, Espiritu Santo.

Guam to Chile – Blog Post 6

By on September 17, 2024 in Spirit

September 14, 15 2024 At Sea between Pohnpei and Bakawari, Papua New Guinea

Departing Pohnpei about 1930, Seabourn Pursuit continued south overnight.  The wind and swell were on the beam, with the seas about 10 feet at 9 second period, so the ship had moderate roll motions.  This wave height is typical for the Pacific Ocean, which has an average wave height of 3 meters.

The sunrise was spectacular once again and we had no rain all day.  At 1400 we held the Equator crossing ceremony and my sister, Julie, being a Polliwog, was inducted during the ceremony into being a Shellback, so we now had permission from King Neptune to cross the equator with no Polliwogs on board.

Lectures today included one on Seabirds and another on mangrove swamps.

September 15, 2024 – At Sea

September 16, 2024

The Seabourn Pursuit took up position off Bakawari Island, Papua New Guinea at 0600.  

Bakawari Island lies next to Bougainville Island
Papau New Guinea

The ship was cleared by the local authorities about 0700 and Patrick headed off for a Kayak excursion.  At 0830, other guests were shuttled ashore in color groups and were treated to a folkloric performance by three local groups on Bakawari Island.  The kayak tour finished just in time to be delivered to the beach for the performance.


Dancing at Bakawari Island

Some of the bamboo flutes used by the performers
Native canoes fishing

Coral formation while kayaking

Native Canoe


By 1200, all guests were back on board and Seabourn Pursuit headed for Honiara, Guadalcanal, Solomon Islands, our next destination.  Our route takes the ship down the “Slot”, through Bougainville Straits and past Savo Island before docking at Honiara.

The area we are transiting is larger than we expected.  The distance from Bakawari Island to Honiara, Guadalcanal is 335 NM.  To make that distance overnight means Seabourn Pursuit has to average more than 15 knots.  Fortunately the seas and wind are favorable.

One of the reasons for making this cruise is the opportunity to visit locations in which my father served while in the USN in WWII. 

This morning, with calm seas and sunny skies, we are approaching Savo Island and will pass by the final resting place of the USS Astoria, which sank following a fierce night battle just off Savo Island, only two days after the USMC landed at Red Beach on Guadalcanal.  The night of August 9, 1942, a night attack by the Japanese navy caught the allies off guard.  Four heavy cruisers were sunk, three US and one Australian.  Three cruisers were sunk in just a few minutes between 0230 and 0300.  The USS Astoria did not sink immediately, but was badly damaged.  The crew initially abandoned ship, but later 350 crew returned to try and save the ship.  My father was one of those who returned to the ship.  He told us about jumping off the bow initially, and returning to collect the bodies of those killed and preparing them for burial by sewing the corpses into hammocks while eating stewed tomatoes since the galleys were unusable and on fire.  Initially we were skeptical of some aspects of that story, but when we saw the same story in other eyewitness accounts, we were convinced he had survived a horrific experience.

However, the crews’ efforts were in vain, as underwater explosions in the bow area fatally damaged USS Astoria (my father was aft at that time).  The ship was abandoned once again and at 1215 that day, August 9, 1942 the USS Astoria listed 30 degrees, then capsized and sank stern first in 2800 feet of water about 2 miles from Savo Island.  More than 247 sailors perished and another 250 were wounded.  It was the worst defeat at sea for the US Navy, excluding Pearl Harbor.  The USS Astoria was rediscovered by Paul Allen in 2015, in 2800 feet of water, with the bow missing.

The bridge display as we were at closest point to Astoria

Last known phot of Astoria, one day before sinking

Photo of Astoria remains by Paul Allen

Savo Island



We wer fortunate to be on the bridge of Seabourn Pursuit when we passed just 2.85 nm from the location of the USS Astoria.  We observed several minutes of silence in memory of the hundreds of navy personnel who died in that action on both the Astoria and the other three ships.

My father was then reassigned to the destroyer USS Blue.  That ship was torpedoed on August 22, 1942 and scuttled on August 23, 1942, after unsuccessful attempts to save her.  My father also survived that sinking.

USS Blue – DD-387



The area between Savo Island and Guadalcanal has been named Iron Bottom Sound, since more than 50 allied and Japanese ships were sunk in the 7 month Guadalcanal campaign.  Iron Bottom Sound is considered a sacred place due to all the people who perished and whose remains went to the bottom.  Guadalcanal and the Solomon Islands campaigns marked the beginning of the successful, but bloody island hopping strategy which the Allies used to eventually defeat Japan.

The Battle of Savo Island was also a turning point for the US and it’s allies in that the Japanese failed to destroy the troop transports and supply ships lying off of Red Beach, just a few miles from the Savo Island battle, instead withdrawing after destroying the four heavy cruisers.  The pattern of tactical victory but strategic mistake would persist throughout the war.

Seabourn Pursuit docked at the container port in Honiara, Guadalcanal at 1100, and by 1140 we were on a bus tour of the Eastern Battlefields of the Guadalcanal campaign.  

Honiara is the capital of the Solomon Islands, a sprawling independent nation with more than 95 major islands and a total population of more than 700,000.  Honiara has a population of about 65,000.  This island nation is being impacted by climate change, with sea levels rising 8 mm per year, more than the average worldwide. The evidence of WWII is still present, with significant amounts of unexploded munitions still being discovered 82 years later.

The first tour stop was at Red Beach, where the USMC landed on August 7, 1942, with little opposition.  That was soon to change as the USMC took control of Henderson field (our second stop) and set up defensive perimeters, including one at “Bloody Ridge”, our third stop of the tour.  We finished the tour with visits to the Japanese War Memorial and the the US War Memorial.  The Guadalcanal took seven months to achieve victory, with more than 7,000 Allied deaths and more than 19,000 Japanese deaths.


Monument at Red Beach

Red Beach

Memorial Park at Henderson Field

View from Bloody Ridge

Monument at Bloody Ridge

Japanese War Memorial

View of Savo Island from US Memorial

Battle of Savo Island at Memorial


List of US Ships sunk at Guadalcanal


At 1800, Seabourn Pursuit cast off the lines and continued the journey in Melanesia.  Our next port of call is Luganville, Espiritu Santo.

Sept. 16 – Monte in Funchal, Portugal

By on September 16, 2024 in The Pearl
“The goal is to die with memories, not dreams.” –Unknown

Today was Stan’s birthday and it was probably our best day yet on the island. We took the Funchal Cable Car to Monte to visit the Monte Palace Tropical Garden. At the beginning of the 20th century, tourists reached the mountain by steam train. Nowadays, they make the same journey from a cable car. The ride from Funchal old town to Monte takes 15-20 minutes one way, which gave us plenty of time to enjoy beautiful views of the city and its surroundings. It covers a distance of 2 miles and makes an impressive ascent of 1,902 ft.
Views from the cable car.

This small parish of Monte is located at the highest point in the city of Funchal and was previously a health resort. It’s known as the parish of basket cars, is one of the most distinctive areas of Funchal with a spectacular panoramic view over the bay of Funchal.

View from the top.
Babosas Chapel – the original was built in 1906 but was destroyed by a flood in 2010. It was rebuilt to look the same. Seems like all the churches we saw in Madeira looked a lot alike.
The Monte Palace Tropical Garden covers an area of approximately 17 acres. It’s located at the Quinta Monte Palace. It looks like the gardens of a fairytale castle with its beautiful mansion, pond, little waterfall and various other structures. The gardens feature over 100,000 plant species with a separate section devoted solely to Madeira’s flora. The estate was first developed in the 18th-century. It became the Monte Palace Hotel in 1897. It was opened to the public as a garden in 1987.

Scenes from around the lake.

The Palace

View from the Oriental Garden.

A few of the beautiful flowers we saw.

A little snack bar in the garden.
We could see the Monte Toboggan coming down the hill from the garden.
Some of the beautiful flamingos we saw. Did you know flamingos are what they eat. Many plants produce natural red, yellow or orange pigments, called carotenoids. Carotenoids give carrots their orange color or turn ripe tomatoes red. They’re also found in the microscopic algae that brine shrimp eat. As a flamingo dines on algae and brine shrimp, its body metabolizes the pigments — turning its feathers pink.
Another lunch with a view at the Pátio das Babosas.
The Carreiros do Monte (hill racers) were invented in 1850 when local residents wanted a quick way to travel from the parish of Monte to the city of Funchal. Now the Monte basket cars (toboggans) are used to transport thousands of tourists who are looking for a ride full of emotions, adrenaline and an unforgettable experience with splendid views over the city of Funchal.
The route is about 1.25 miles long and runs through the streets of the city. The vehicle reaches a speed of approximately 24 MPH and arrives at the bottom station in about 10 minutes. The carts are driven by men called Carreiros, dressed in white and wearing straw hats. They also use rubber-soled shoes that allow them to break the carts.
The Church of Our Lady of Monte was originally built in 1741. It was damaged by an earthquake a few years later and rebuilt in 1818. We climbed all these steps and then up to the bell tower.

The view from the bell tower of the church.

Watching the toboggan action from the church.

We decided against doing the toboggan since the lines were so long. But it was fun watching them.

Funchal has so many little cafés along the narrow streets…so many good cafés. To celebrate Stan’s birthday we ate at O Visconde (The Viscount). The service and good was wonderful.

We tried a few different things. Seafood is a big thing in Madeira and it is very fresh. We started with the octopus salad, which was very good. Stan had sardines and I had the carbonara. We also had a bottle of wine and the bill only came to $44.50.

Sept. 13 – Funchal, Portugal

By on September 15, 2024 in The Pearl

“All our dreams can come true if we have the courage to pursue them”. – Unknown

Today was our first full day in Madeira. Actually it was our first day since we didn’t land until 4:30 this morning. By the time we got in bed it was after six. After a few hours of sleep we started the day by having coffee and a pastry at a place located across the street from our apartment. This afternoon we wandered around town a bit and then we had to go back to the airport to pick up our rental car. Unfortunately they were closed when we arrived. 

The view from our apartment. Looking towards the water a little restaurant in the park.

Funchal is the capital city, laid out like an amphitheater around the bay. It’s a magnificent city, with cobbled streets, splendid parks and gardens, little squares with restaurants, Portuguese colonial architecture and a cable car for a bird’s eye view of the city. The city began in 1424 when the Zarco family settled there. Its strategic location between Europe, Africa and South America has led to its importance as a port of call for the European trade routes. We’re staying in The Old Town, known as Zona Velha. It’s a lively place and we plan to explore as much of it as we can while we’re here. 
The harbor looking towards town.

The Mercado dos Lavradores, literally translated as “farmers market”, it’s a fruit, vegetable, flower and fish market in old town that opened in 1940. The building houses 3 floors of stalls with exotic fruits, vegetables, plants of all kinds and lots of fish and shellfish. The stalls are decorated in vibrant colors and the salesmen dressed in typical costumes.  

Rua de Santa Maria is one of oldest and most colorful streets in Old Town. The narrow cobbled street dates back to 1430 as a thoroughfare up to the church of Santa Maria Maior. It’s just wide enough for pedestrians and is lined with restaurants, cafes and an art gallery or two. In 2014 the “Art of Open Doors” project turned this old shabby area of Funchal into a colorful outdoor art gallery with more than 200 works of art.

Part of Rue de Santa Maria.

Just a few of the doors we saw. We went back to this little street the next night for dinner.

Sept. 13 – Funchal, Portugal

By on September 15, 2024 in The Pearl

“All our dreams can come true if we have the courage to pursue them”. – Unknown

Today was our first full day in Madeira. Actually it was our first day since we didn’t land until 4:30 this morning. By the time we got in bed it was after six. After a few hours of sleep we started the day by having coffee and a pastry at a place located across the street from our apartment. This afternoon we wandered around town a bit and then we had to go back to the airport to pick up our rental car. Unfortunately they were closed when we arrived. 

CONTINUE READING HERE…»

Sept. 15 – Porto da Cruz, Portugal

By on September 15, 2024 in The Pearl
“Stop being afraid of what could go wrong, and start getting excited about what could go right.” -Tony Robbins
While we were in the planning and research stage of our trip to Madeira we watched several YouTube videos. One talked about the Santo da Serra Farmers Market held every Sunday. It looked like a great local place to check out. In reality it was packed with tourists. I guess everyone watches the same videos. The road was jammed with at least 20 large buses and 100s of cars. It’s a very small market with some great food booths and a few vegetables and fruit vendors. There was also a flea market across the street. Neat to see but definitely not worth being tied up in traffic. 
We didn’t stay at the market long and thought while we were in the area we’d do a little hiking at one of the levadas. Levadas are irrigation canals that were built in the 15th century to carry water to agricultural crops around the villages. There is a whole network on Madeira Island most of which are used by hikers to access the many springs and waterfalls on the island. The roads in the mountains are very windy and not as wide as those along the coast. The traffic was even worse at the Levada dos Balcões than at the market. Cars and buses parked along the road miles from the trail head. That would be crazy, hike a couple of miles in traffic to start a four mile hike…no thanks. When cars park like that it turns a two lane road into a one lane road. Traffic was only moving north. So we kept moving and ended up on the north shore. 
We looked at our map and decided to check out Porto da Cruz. A cute little fishing village on the northeastern shore. Popular with surfers, sunbathers and hikers. It has lots of little cafés along its harbor, a huge saltwater pool, a seafront promenade and a rum factory. What an amazing place we found. Sometimes it’s the unexpected things you find that are the best. 
The market

They serve ponchas at several stands. Poncha is the local rum punch…it has a lot of punch.

Hydrangeas grow everywhere here on the island. So pretty.

Once you get up into the mountains the scenery looks a lot like that in NY and PA.

Volcanic peaks are everywhere.

Looking east along the beach in Porto da Cruz. A popular surfing spot in Madeira.

Looking west at some of the little cafés along the harbor.

Lunch at The Wave.

Porto da Cruz Swimming Pool

Looking back to town from the seafront promenade.

The seafront promenade.

Companhia dos Engenhos do Norte (Northern Mills Company) is a working rum refinery. It’s the only working steam powered rum distillery left in Europe. It is located on the west side of the promenade.

You can tour their facility and do tasting in their little store.

One of the best meals we had all week was at India Gate. Stan had the Chicken Tikka Masala – Boneless chicken tikka cooked in yogurt, ginger, garlic, tomato, and a touch of garam masala. I had Chicken Curry – Chicken stewed in an onion and tomato based sauce, flavored with ginger, garlic, chili peppers and a variety of spices.

Sept. 12 – Travel Day

By on September 14, 2024 in The Pearl
“We travel because we need to, because distance and difference are the secret tonic to creativity.” -Anonymous

We began our vacation a day early by flying into JFK from Ithaca yesterday. The JFK Airport is located in Queens on Long Island…so this was a less stressful way to begin our adventure. We stayed at the TWA Hotel located in the old TWA terminal, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Eero Saarinen’s 1962 TWA Flight Center serves as the lobby of the TWA Hotel. You feel as if you’ve been transported back to the 1960 when you enter this hotel. It was a fun place to stay and everything went very smoothly on Wednesday. 

Ithaca International Airport

The TWA Hotel

Inside the Connie Lounge.

Dinner at the Paris Café.

Adventure only occurs when things don’t go as planned. Maybe fate led us to accept the upgrade our airline made available to us to Madeira. It was a bonus because our flight was delayed over five hours and we were able to enjoy the Air France lounge. We actually left the hotel as soon as we were up and ready this morning so we could hang out and enjoy their buffet. Little did we know we would spend most of the day hanging out there.  
We were supposed to leave at 11:50. We finally took off about 5:30. The plane had mechanical issues and they had to get another plane for our flight. Thank goodness for our upgrade. The upgrade also made our six hour flight extremely comfortable…meals and drinks included.
Our meals
My space
Madeira is a small island and has very limited flat space. For that reason when they enlarged the runway at the Madeira Airport they had to build it on a bridge extending into the sea. The bridge measures 590′ wide and 3/4 of a mile long. The total runaway is 1.72 miles…doesn’t seem like it leaves a lot of room for error. We came in at night, which might have been a good thing. I’m not sure I’d want to see this landing.

Finally in Madeira.
We’re spending our first five nights in Old Town (Zona Velha) in Funchal. We have a nice little apartment close to the water and not too far from the Mercado dos Lavradores (Farmers Market). We should be able to do a lot of exploring of Funchal and the southern coast from here.