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Wrapping up Alaska Cruise 2024

Our 2024 cruise bore a remarkable similarity to 2023.  While we left a week later, we still managed to attend the Little Norway Festival in Petersburg, Alaska in the middle of May.  In both years we spent about 60% of our nights anchored and 40% on the docks. The miles covered were similar (3,091 in 2024 versus 3,025 in 2023).  The shortened trip was largely due to the 13 days in August for the haul out in Port Townsend.

Year # of Days At Anchor At a Dock On a Buoy Distance Traveled Engine Hours Gen. Hours Time Idling
2010 129 57 66 5 3,221 517.1 40.4  
2011 115 81 33   3,465 577.4 31.3  
2013 151 99 50 1 3,667 630.0 53.3  
2014 141 86 48 6 4,052 720.8 34.8 48.5
2015 104 67 31 5 3,580 629.2 28.7 42.4
2016 141 99 39 2 3,979 700.0 51.9 68.6
2017 140 91 46 2 3,817 656.5 62.2 51.1
2018 112 71 40   3,170 528.6 33.9 38.2
2019 118 82 35   3,816 649.5 16.3 56.6
2020 63 42 12 6 2,527 399.7 32.8 11.5
2021 110 81 26 2 3,317 554.0 66.0 27.5
2022 139 88 47 3 3,584 613.6 19.5 42.9
2023 139 84 54   3,024 510.4 36.0 33.7
2024 122 73 48   3,091 529.8 24.8 26.9
  1,724 1,101 575 32 48,310 8216.6 531.9 447.9

Below is a map of our stops in the 2024 cruising season. Clicking on one of the “dropped pins” will pull up some information about the stop. At the top right of the map is an icon which will open a separate window that may be easier to navigate.

The map below shows all of the places we have stopped overnight during all our cruises. It is similar in style to our yearly cruise maps except that when the marker for a particular spot is selected, the data for the spot is the total number of times we’ve stayed and in which years.

Wrapping up Alaska Cruise 2024

Our 2024 cruise bore a remarkable resemblance to 2023.  While we left a week later, we still managed to attend the Little Norway Festival in Petersburg, Alaska in the middle of May.  In both years we spent about 60% of our nights anchored and 40% on the docks. The miles covered were similar (3,091 in 2024 versus 3,025 in 2023).  The shortened trip was largely due to the 13 days in August for the haul out in Port Townsend.

Year # of Days At Anchor At a Dock On a Buoy Distance Traveled Engine Hours Gen. Hours Time Idling
2010 129 57 66 5 3,221 517.1 40.4  
2011 115 81 33   3,465 577.4 31.3  
2013 151 99 50 1 3,667 630.0 53.3  
2014 141 86 48 6 4,052 720.8 34.8 48.5
2015 104 67 31 5 3,580 629.2 28.7 42.4
2016 141 99 39 2 3,979 700.0 51.9 68.6
2017 140 91 46 2 3,817 656.5 62.2 51.1
2018 112 71 40   3,170 528.6 33.9 38.2
2019 118 82 35   3,816 649.5 16.3 56.6
2020 63 42 12 6 2,527 399.7 32.8 11.5
2021 110 81 26 2 3,317 554.0 66.0 27.5
2022 139 88 47 3 3,584 613.6 19.5 42.9
2023 139 84 54   3,024 510.4 36.0 33.7
2024 122 73 48   3,091 529.8 24.8 26.9
  1,724 1,101 575 32 48,310 8216.6 531.9 447.9

As a footnote to the table above, if you add up the nightly stops (at anchor, at a dock or on a buoy), the total, 1,708, is 16 short of the total number of days, 1,724. The difference is the 14 days at the end of the trip when I don’t count the night we return to our homeport and two days in 2020 during Covid when we did an overnight passage and did not stop.

Below is a map of our stops in the 2024 cruising season. Clicking on one of the “dropped pins” will pull up some information about the stop. At the top right of the map is an icon which will open a separate window that may be easier to navigate.

The map below shows all of the places we have stopped overnight during all our cruises through 2024. It is similar in style to our yearly cruise map except that when the marker for a particular spot is selected, the data for the spot is the total number of times we’ve stayed and in which years.

Port Townsend to Bainbridge Island (via San Juan Islands)

2023-04-006xGetting hauled out and having your boat worked on is always stressful. Since we have no land-based living accommodations in the area, we continue to “live” on the boat while it sits on stands in the boatyard. That means we can’t spill any water overboard, black (most certainly!) or even grey. We do have holding tanks for both kinds, but they are not so large that they can be used for much more than a week of “normal” use. Consequently, we try to put nothing in the holding tanks. That means no cooking beyond boiling water and using on shore toilet & shower facilities.

2024-Cruise-202xBoatyards are usually dusty because of the sanding and grinding, either on your boat or other boats in the yard. There can be lots of foot traffic from the coming and going of the workers doing the work. Each new foot brings a little more dust on board.

On our work list for the folks at the Port Townsend Shipwrights Coop (PTSC) were routine maintenance items (e.g., bottom paint, new sacrificial anodes), repairing failed/failing items (e.g., the anchor windlass), and upgrading components. We spent 11 days out of the water, being hauled out on Monday, 8/19 and launching on Thursday, 8/29. We spent the night after launching in Port Townsend before departing on Friday, 8/30.

The last several years we have spent 1 – 2 weeks at the end of our cruising season in the San Juans. While it is still crowded compared to SE Alaska, September, after Labor Day, isn’t quite as crowded as in July and August. Setting realistic expectations is the key. If you expect to share the anchorage with 40 other boats, you shouldn’t be upset if it turns to be true. And if there are only 35 boats, you’re ahead of the game.

2018-Cruise-391xThe nice thing about San Juan Islands is how compact they are. Twenty-five miles is probably the furthest you’d have to travel to get from any two anchorages on any of the islands. With good shore access at the many parks, it encourages a slow pace. As a result, Drake gets frequent walks and ball play when we visit. This year we stopped at Reid Harbor (Stuart Island), Garrison Bay (San Juan Islalnd), Griffin Bay (San Juan Island), Deer Harbor (Orcas Island), Fisherman’s Bay (Lopez Island) and, Echo Bay (Sucia Island). We used Hunter Bay (Lopez Island) as our last stop before crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca and slogging down Admiralty Inlet on the way to our home port in Eagle Harbor on Bainbridge Island.

We arrived Eagle Harbor in the early afternoon on Sunday, September 15. In total, we were gone 135 days but I am going to attribute13 days as time in the boatyard and not count them. Of the 121 nights out on the cruise, 73 were at anchor while 48 days were on docks. We put on 3,091 miles in 503 cruising hours (we had an additional 27 engine hours trolling or idling while fishing (mostly deploying or retrieving prawn pots).

Port Townsend to Bainbridge Island (via San Juan Islands)

2023-04-006xGetting hauled out and having your boat worked on is always stressful. Since we have no land-based living accommodations in the area, we continue to “live” on the boat while it sits on stands in the boatyard. That means we can’t spill any water overboard, black (most certainly!) or even grey. We do have holding tanks for both kinds, but they are not so large that they can be used for much more than a week of “normal” use. Consequently, we try to put nothing in the holding tanks. That means no cooking beyond boiling water and using on shore toilet & shower facilities.

2024-Cruise-202xBoatyards are usually dusty because of the sanding and grinding, either on your boat or other boats in the yard. There can be lots of foot traffic from the coming and going of the workers doing the work. Each new foot brings a little more dust on board.

On our work list for the folks at the Port Townsend Shipwrights Coop (PTSC) were routine maintenance items (e.g., bottom paint, new sacrificial anodes), repairing failed/failing items (e.g., the anchor windlass), and upgrading components. We spent 11 days out of the water, being hauled out on Monday, 8/19 and launching on Thursday, 8/29. We spent the night after launching in Port Townsend before departing on Friday, 8/30.

The last several years we have spent 1 – 2 weeks at the end of our cruising season in the San Juans. While it is still crowded compared to SE Alaska, September, after Labor Day, isn’t quite as crowded as in July and August. Setting realistic expectations is the key. If you expect to share the anchorage with 40 other boats, you shouldn’t be upset if it turns to be true. And if there are only 35 boats, you’re ahead of the game.

2018-Cruise-391xThe nice thing about San Juan Islands is how compact they are. Twenty-five miles is probably the furthest you’d have to travel to get from any two anchorages on any of the islands. With good shore access at the many parks, it encourages a slow pace. As a result, Drake gets frequent walks and ball play when we visit. This year we stopped at Reid Harbor (Stuart Island), Garrison Bay (San Juan Islalnd), Griffin Bay (San Juan Island), Deer Harbor (Orcas Island), Fisherman’s Bay (Lopez Island) and, Echo Bay (Sucia Island). We used Hunter Bay (Lopez Island) as our last stop before crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca and slogging down Admiralty Inlet on the way to our home port in Eagle Harbor on Bainbridge Island.

We arrived Eagle Harbor in the early afternoon on Sunday, September 15. In total, we were gone 135 days but I am going to attribute13 days as time in the boatyard and not count them. Of the 121 nights out on the cruise, 73 were at anchor while 48 days were on docks. We put on 3,091 miles in 503 cruising hours (we had an additional 27 engine hours trolling or idling while fishing (mostly deploying or retrieving prawn pots).

Ketchikan to Port Townsend

On the morning of July 24, with fresh oil from a routine oil change coursing through Alpenglow’s Lugger engine, we headed out of Ketchikan. First stop was the fuel dock at the south end of town where we took on a little over 290 gallons of diesel. We probably could have made it back to Puget Sound without taking on fuel, but we like the extra ballast a ton of fuel provides when we go around Cape Caution.

We stopped just short of the AK-BC border at a small cove in Sitklan Passage, which allows us to arrive in Prince Rupert around noon the next day even with the time change from AKDT to PDT. The weather was settled and crossing Dixon Entrance was comfortable.

We moored at the Prince Rupert Rowing and Yacht Club (PRRYC) facility in Cow Bay for two days while we provisioned with the fresh produce that we couldn’t bring across the border. We also played with Drake several times, went for walks and probably bought more treats from the local Tim Horton’s than were healthy for us.

We squeezed our way out of the PRRYC marina (it required a 3-point 180° turn in the fairway) on July 27 and headed south out of Prince Rupert Harbor. Because of the timing of the currents in Grenville Channel, we elected to take the outer channels (Ogden Channel, Petrel Channel and Principe Channel) along the west shore of Pitt Island. Our anchorage for the night was the south end of Patterson Inlet.

The next day we continued south, crossing Estevan Sound, Laredo Channel and Laredo Sound then transited through Meyers Passage. We anchored on the west shore of Swindle Island at the elbow where Meyers Passage meets Tolmie Channel.

Often, we’ve travelled this section more slowly, covering shorter distances and stopping to fish, but with only 3-weeks before our haul out in Port Townsend we wanted to concentrate 2024-Cruise-181xour BC fishing time in the Fitz Hugh Sound area. We made one more stop, Fancy Cove in Lama Passage, before arriving at Goldstream Harbor on the NE corner of Hecate Island.

We spent 8 nights in Fitz Hugh Sound fishing in a variety of locations. We stayed four of the nights at Pruth Bay where the Hakai Institute generously provides shore and trail access to the spectacular beaches on the west shore of Calvert Island. Drake enjoys his time on the beach where he often meets the dogs from other boats.2024-Cruise-187X Our final night before heading south around Cape Caution was at Safety Cove on the east shore of Calvert Island.

This was our thirtieth crossing of Cape Caution (15 round trips) but we never take it for granted. We always carefully monitor the weather forecasts days ahead of when we want to do the crossing and choose the best day we can find. This year the weather gods were good to us, and we didn’t need to put our stabilizing fish in the water. We headed directly to Port McNeill on Vancouver Island rather than turning into the Broughton Islands on the mainland side of Queen Charlotte Strait.

Drake reminded us that we needed to spend two nights in Port McNeill so that he had ample shore time to play ball. Because of that, we didn’t depart until the morning of August 9. With a forecast of strong afternoon NW winds in Johnstone Strait and adverse currents in Johnstone Strait (it was mostly ebbing north during the middle of the day), we had to do a stutter step approach to getting around Seymour Narrows. Our first night was in Douglas Bay in Forward Harbour where we shared the anchorage with about ten other boats. From here we did a very early start and traveled first to Otter Cove, south of Chatham Point, on the dying flood current, anchored for a leisurely lunch during the building ebb current then fought the dying ebb current down Discovery Passage to transit Seymour Narrow at slack before stopping the night in Gowlland Harbour on Quadra Island.

The next day, August 11, we again started very early and made the long slog down the Strait of Georgia. We anchored that night in Boat Harbour south of Dodd Narrows which made for and easy next day to Montague Harbour on Galliano Island.

Our original plan was to spend two nights at Montague before crossing the border back into the US and the San Juan Islands. Unexpectedly, we added an extra day when we discovered that our anchor windlass had failed and would not haul the anchor up. After calling the US distributor for the windlass, we got some troubleshooting tips and determined that we weren’t going to be able to fix the windlass ourselves. Fortunately, the windlass can be operated by hand and the anchor raised.

On Thursday August 15, we got our anchor pulled up, crossed the border, and headed to Cap Sante Marina in Anacortes for the night. The next day, Friday, we continued to Port Townsend and began to prepare for our haul out the following Monday. The failed anchor windlass becomes another item on the work list for the Port Townsend Shipwrights Cooperative who will be doing the work.

Ketchikan to Port Townsend

On the morning of July 24, with fresh oil from a routine oil change coursing through Alpenglow’s Lugger engine, we headed out of Ketchikan. First stop was the fuel dock at the south end of town where we took on a little over 290 gallons of diesel. We probably could have made it back to Puget Sound without taking on fuel, but we like the extra ballast a ton of fuel provides when we go around Cape Caution.

We stopped just short of the AK-BC border at a small cove in Sitklan Passage, which allows us to arrive in Prince Rupert around noon the next day even with the time change from AKDT to PDT. The weather was settled and crossing Dixon Entrance was comfortable.

We moored at the Prince Rupert Rowing and Yacht Club (PRRYC) facility in Cow Bay for two days while we provisioned with the fresh produce that we couldn’t bring across the border. We also played with Drake several times, went for walks and probably bought more treats from the local Tim Horton’s than were healthy for us.

We squeezed our way out of the PRRYC marina (it required a 3-point 180° turn in the fairway) on July 27 and headed south out of Prince Rupert Harbor. Because of the timing of the currents in Grenville Channel, we elected to take the outer channels (Ogden Channel, Petrel Channel and Principe Channel) along the west shore of Pitt Island. Our anchorage for the night was the south end of Patterson Inlet.

The next day we continued south, crossing Estevan Sound, Laredo Channel and Laredo Sound then transited through Meyers Passage. We anchored on the west shore of Swindle Island at the elbow where Meyers Passage meets Tolmie Channel.

Often, we’ve travelled this section more slowly, covering shorter distances and stopping to fish, but with only 3-weeks before our haul out in Port Townsend we wanted to concentrate 2024-Cruise-181xour BC fishing time in the Fitz Hugh Sound area. We made one more stop, Fancy Cove in Lama Passage, before arriving at Goldstream Harbor on the NE corner of Hecate Island.

We spent 8 nights in Fitz Hugh Sound fishing in a variety of locations. We stayed four of the nights at Pruth Bay where the Hakai Institute generously provides shore and trail access to the spectacular beaches on the west shore of Calvert Island. Drake enjoys his time on the beach where he often meets the dogs from other boats.2024-Cruise-187X Our final night before heading south around Cape Caution was at Safety Cove on the east shore of Calvert Island.

This was our thirtieth crossing of Cape Caution (15 round trips) but we never take it for granted. We always carefully monitor the weather forecasts days ahead of when we want to do the crossing and choose the best day we can find. This year the weather gods were good to us, and we didn’t need to put our stabilizing fish in the water. We headed directly to Port McNeill on Vancouver Island rather than turning into the Broughton Islands on the mainland side of Queen Charlotte Strait.

Drake reminded us that we needed to spend two nights in Port McNeill so that he had ample shore time to play ball. Because of that, we didn’t depart until the morning of August 9. With a forecast of strong afternoon NW winds in Johnstone Strait and adverse currents in Johnstone Strait (it was mostly ebbing north during the middle of the day), we had to do a stutter step approach to getting around Seymour Narrows. Our first night was in Douglas Bay in Forward Harbour where we shared the anchorage with about ten other boats. From here we did a very early start and traveled first to Otter Cove, south of Chatham Point, on the dying flood current, anchored for a leisurely lunch during the building ebb current then fought the dying ebb current down Discovery Passage to transit Seymour Narrow at slack before stopping the night in Gowlland Harbour on Quadra Island.

The next day, August 11, we again started very early and made the long slog down the Strait of Georgia. We anchored that night in Boat Harbour south of Dodd Narrows which made for and easy next day to Montague Harbour on Galliano Island.

Our original plan was to spend two nights at Montague before crossing the border back into the US and the San Juan Islands. Unexpectedly, we added an extra day when we discovered that our anchor windlass had failed and would not haul the anchor up. After calling the US distributor for the windlass, we got some troubleshooting tips and determined that we weren’t going to be able to fix the windlass ourselves. Fortunately, the windlass can be operated by hand and the anchor raised.

On Thursday August 15, we got our anchor pulled up, crossed the border, and headed to Cap Sante Marina in Anacortes for the night. The next day, Friday, we continued to Port Townsend and began to prepare for our haul out the following Monday. The failed anchor windlass becomes another item on the work list for the Port Townsend Shipwrights Cooperative who will be doing the work.

Sitka to Ketchikan

2024-Cruise-145xWe had no significant boat chores to perform in Sitka so we did lots of walking around the town and on the nearby trails. We did meet up with our friends Dan and Marsha and toured their new (to them) Selene 53, Turnagain. Their previous boat was a troller on which they fished for salmon, often near Sitka or in Chatham Strait. Drake was excited to meet their standard-sized bernadoodle, Meaka. They played once or twice in the dog park near the Eliason Harbor marina.

We pulled out Sunday, June 30, after four days in Sitka. Since on the way to Sitka we enjoyed our walk to Lake Eva, but not the slog across the tidal flat, I noted that the high tide for July 1 was in the morning and would be covering the muddy tidal flat. The plan was to anchor in the same location in Hanus Bay as we had a week earlier and do the hike in the morning before proceeding to our next anchorage. Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate.

Peril Strait often gets snotty in southerly winds coming up Chatham Strait which pass through the low divide between Catherine Island and Baranof Island. It was a steady 15-20 kts head wind with steep 3-foot seas. While it was a bit better near the shore, we decided not to get beat up at anchor by the wind. We ended up anchoring in an open bight on the north shore of Catherine Island about 3 or 4 miles further.2024-Cruise-148x The small cruise ship Liseron was already there which gave us some confidence it would work.

The next day was calmer, and we proceeded to Takatz Bay on the east shore of Baranof Island where we anchored for two nights. Because of its size, Takatz Bay often gets charter mega-yachts with their attendant vessels. Later, kayaks were launched from the one we sharing the anchorage, adding 2024-Cruise-149xanother layer to the “turducken” nature of their crusing.

2024-Cruise-165xFrom Takatz Bay we traveled across Chatham Strait into Fredrick Sound and anchored in Honey Dew Cove at the north end of Kuiu Island for two nights. While there, we had a couple of furry animals roaming the beach, one more fearsome than the other.

After Takatz Bay we continued east further into Fredrick Sound. We were in “fishing” mode so we dropped prawn pots in a few 2024-Cruise-168xareas and the hook for halibut. The halibut were elusive but we did manage to pull up some prawns as well as an octopus (which we released) in our pots.

When we left Fredrick Sound we cruised on by Petersburg and instead stopped in Wrangell. We stayed for 3 nights to give Drake 2024-Cruise-176xsome extra shore time and make up for the 13 nights at anchor since Sitka. While there, we crossed paths with our first boat, the Selene 36 Dragontail, now named Dancing Bear.

From Fredrick Sound, we spent 3 nights in the Ernest Sound area doing a little more prawning, two nights on the dock at Meyers Chuck and finally arrived in Ketchikan on July 21.

Our return to Ketchikan is about a  week earlier than normal as we have a yard date in Port Townsend on August 19 for a haulout. Mostly it is for maintenance but with a boat, the list often gets longer by the time your get there.

Sitka to Ketchikan

2024-Cruise-145xWe had no significant boat chores to perform in Sitka so we did lots of walking around the town and on the nearby trails. We did meet up with our friends Dan and Marsha and toured their new (to them) Selene 53, Turnagain. Their previous boat was a troller on which they fished for salmon, often near Sitka or in Chatham Strait. Drake was excited to meet their standard-sized bernadoodle, Meaka. They played once or twice in the dog park near the Eliason Harbor marina.

We pulled out Sunday, June 30, after four days in Sitka. Since on the way to Sitka we enjoyed our walk to Lake Eva, but not the slog across the tidal flat, I noted that the high tide for July 1 was in the morning and would be covering the muddy tidal flat. The plan was to anchor in the same location in Hanus Bay as we had a week earlier and do the hike in the morning before proceeding to our next anchorage. Unfortunately, the weather did not cooperate.

Peril Strait often gets snotty in southerly winds coming up Chatham Strait which pass through the low divide between Catherine Island and Baranof Island. It was a steady 15-20 kts head wind with steep 3-foot seas. While it was a bit better near the shore, we decided not to get beat up at anchor by the wind. We ended up anchoring in an open bight on the north shore of Catherine Island about 3 or 4 miles further.2024-Cruise-148x The small cruise ship Liseron was already there which gave us some confidence it would work.

The next day was calmer, and we proceeded to Takatz Bay on the east shore of Baranof Island where we anchored for two nights. Because of its size, Takatz Bay often gets charter mega-yachts with their attendant vessels. Later, kayaks were launched from the one we sharing the anchorage, adding 2024-Cruise-149xanother layer to the “turducken” nature of their crusing.

2024-Cruise-165xFrom Takatz Bay we traveled across Chatham Strait into Fredrick Sound and anchored in Honey Dew Cove at the north end of Kuiu Island for two nights. While there, we had a couple of furry animals roaming the beach, one more fearsome than the other.

After Takatz Bay we continued east further into Fredrick Sound. We were in “fishing” mode so we dropped prawn pots in a few 2024-Cruise-168xareas and the hook for halibut. The halibut were elusive but we did manage to pull up some prawns as well as an octopus (which we released) in our pots.

When we left Fredrick Sound we cruised on by Petersburg and instead stopped in Wrangell. We stayed for 3 nights to give Drake 2024-Cruise-176xsome extra shore time and make up for the 13 nights at anchor since Sitka. While there, we crossed paths with our first boat, the Selene 36 Dragontail, now named Dancing Bear.

From Fredrick Sound, we spent 3 nights in the Ernest Sound area doing a little more prawning, two nights on the dock at Meyers Chuck and finally arrived in Ketchikan on July 21.

Our return to Ketchikan is about a  week earlier than normal as we have a yard date in Port Townsend on August 19 for a haulout. Mostly it is for maintenance but with a boat, the list often gets longer by the time your get there.

Juneau to Sitka

We spent 3 nights in Juneau and tried to make it as productive as possible. We did cross paths and caught up on our travels with fellow Queen City Yacht Club members, Wanda and Rico on Wanderer and Lynn and Dave on Willawaw. They arrived in Auke Bay from the south having stayed in Taku Harbor the night before, while we came from the north.

In past years, we have rented a car for a day to run our errands but have now decided that we can get by with riding our bikes, taking the bus or using a Lyft/Uber. The Lyft/Uber drivers are very accustomed to taking people from the Juneau Costco to the harbor at Auke Bay.

During the summer, the Statter Harbor at Auke Bay is very busy with locals coming and going, whale watching tour boats, commercial fishing boats and transient recreational boats such as we are. Another very noticeable presence are the mega yachts. It is common to see 2 or 3 tied to the breakwater dock at Statter Harbor with another anchored out in the deeper section of the bay. Most mega yachts abound with glamour and luxury in their appearance.

2024-Cruise-122x

On this visit there was a yacht that stood out for its purposeful look. The vessel,180’ Power Play, is in the category of a “support vessel”. Its purpose is to carry the necessary accessories to a larger mega yacht, such as a large (e.g., 50’) tender, jet-skis, or helipad that might interfere with the appearance of the owners primary mega yacht. A little searching on the internet revealed that Power Play was built for Jan Koum, a co-founder of the company WhatsApp (later purchased by Facebook for a reported $19 billion). Sadly, the vessel supported by Power Play, the 241’ Mogambo was not present (its AIS position was in the San Franciso Bay area) at the time.

We departed Juneau on Wednesday, June 19 and headed back towards Chatham Channel. We anchored again in Cedar Cove in Freshwater Bay near the more popular Pavlof Harbor. We dropped our three prawn pots in Freshwater Bay as we went in. This time we were alone in the anchorage.

The weather deteriorated overnight and, while the anchorage was calm and protected, as soon as we poked our nose into Freshwater Bay, we had 2-3’ foot seas. It was a challenge to retrieve our gear, but Marcia’s sharp vision spotted all three pots bobbing up and down in the waves. All our efforts were wasted as we had zero prawns. We won’t be trying there again anytime soon.

We had arranged to meet up with our friends John & Kathleen on Laysan in Takatz Bay. They were coming north up Chatham Channel from Gut Bay and had the wind and seas on their stern making for a relatively comfortable ride. We slogged south down Chatham Channel in 15-20 knot winds and 3’ head seas. We breathed a great sigh of relief when we arrived at the protected entrance channel to Takatz Bay.

2024-Cruise-131x

We joined John & Kathleen for a paddle in our kayaks to the head of the bay at high tide (at low tide it is a large mud flat). There was a brown bear 2024-Cruise-134xfeeding on sedge grass at the shore’s edge who was not bothered by folks watching him from a respectful distance.

That evening we were invited with John & Kathleen to dinner on the vessel You Dear, belonging to Peter & Gail who are John & Kathleen’s “neighbors” in Petersburg.2024-Cruise-141x Peter & Gail were buddy boating with their friends Doug & Karen owners of Peregrine. The meal was seafood recently caught by Peter, Gail, Doug & Karen.

After our second night in Takatz Bay, Alpenglow and Laysan both departed. The wind and seas had calmed down considerably from the day we had arrived. When we departed, John & Kathleen continued north up Chatham Channel with the goal of Hoonah where a haul out was scheduled two days later. We continued south towards Gut Bay.

During our two nights in Gut Bay, we dropped prawn pots which yielded satisfactory results. The salmon fishing, however, was not successful. We decided to return to Sitka for another visit.

Alon2024-Cruise-143xg the way we stopped in Hanus Bay and took our kayaks to shore to access the USFS trail to Lake Eva. The hike was fine, but our timing was poor because we landed on a following tide and had to drag our kayaks a long way across a muddy shoreline and even further after our hike. Not wanting a muddy dog, we carried Drake across the muddy parts of the beach.

After one last night at anchor in the outer cover to DeGroff Bay, we returned to Sitka the morning of Wednesday, June 26.

Juneau to Sitka

We spent 3 nights in Juneau and tried to make it as productive as possible. We did cross paths and caught up on our travels with fellow Queen City Yacht Club members, Wanda and Rico on Wanderer and Lynn and Dave on Willawaw. They arrived in Auke Bay from the south having stayed in Taku Harbor the night before, while we came from the north.

In past years, we have rented a car for a day to run our errands but have now decided that we can get by with riding our bikes, taking the bus or using a Lyft/Uber. The Lyft/Uber drivers are very accustomed to taking people from the Juneau Costco to the harbor at Auke Bay.

During the summer, the Statter Harbor at Auke Bay is very busy with locals coming and going, whale watching tour boats, commercial fishing boats and transient recreational boats such as we are. Another very noticeable presence are the mega yachts. It is common to see 2 or 3 tied to the breakwater dock at Statter Harbor with another anchored out in the deeper section of the bay. Most mega yachts abound with glamour and luxury in their appearance.

2024-Cruise-122x

On this visit there was a yacht that stood out for its purposeful look. The vessel,180’ Power Play, is in the category of a “support vessel”. Its purpose is to carry the necessary accessories to a larger mega yacht, such as a large (e.g., 50’) tender, jet-skis, or helipad that might interfere with the appearance of the owners primary mega yacht. A little searching on the internet revealed that Power Play was built for Jan Koum, a co-founder of the company WhatsApp (later purchased by Facebook for a reported $19 billion). Sadly, the vessel supported by Power Play, the 241’ Mogambo was not present (its AIS position was in the San Franciso Bay area) at the time.

We departed Juneau on Wednesday, June 19 and headed back towards Chatham Channel. We anchored again in Cedar Cove in Freshwater Bay near the more popular Pavlof Harbor. We dropped our three prawn pots in Freshwater Bay as we went in. This time we were alone in the anchorage.

The weather deteriorated overnight and, while the anchorage was calm and protected, as soon as we poked our nose into Freshwater Bay, we had 2-3’ foot seas. It was a challenge to retrieve our gear, but Marcia’s sharp vision spotted all three pots bobbing up and down in the waves. All our efforts were wasted as we had zero prawns. We won’t be trying there again anytime soon.

We had arranged to meet up with our friends John & Kathleen on Laysan in Takatz Bay. They were coming north up Chatham Channel from Gut Bay and had the wind and seas on their stern making for a relatively comfortable ride. We slogged south down Chatham Channel in 15-20 knot winds and 3’ head seas. We breathed a great sigh of relief when we arrived at the protected entrance channel to Takatz Bay.

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We joined John & Kathleen for a paddle in our kayaks to the head of the bay at high tide (at low tide it is a large mud flat). There was a brown bear 2024-Cruise-134xfeeding on sedge grass at the shore’s edge who was not bothered by folks watching him from a respectful distance.

That evening we were invited with John & Kathleen to dinner on the vessel You Dear, belonging to Peter & Gail who are John & Kathleen’s “neighbors” in Petersburg.2024-Cruise-141x Peter & Gail were buddy boating with their friends Doug & Karen owners of Peregrine. The meal was seafood recently caught by Peter, Gail, Doug & Karen.

After our second night in Takatz Bay, Alpenglow and Laysan both departed. The wind and seas had calmed down considerably from the day we had arrived. When we departed, John & Kathleen continued north up Chatham Channel with the goal of Hoonah where a haul out was scheduled two days later. We continued south towards Gut Bay.

During our two nights in Gut Bay, we dropped prawn pots which yielded satisfactory results. The salmon fishing, however, was not successful. We decided to return to Sitka for another visit.

Alon2024-Cruise-143xg the way we stopped in Hanus Bay and took our kayaks to shore to access the USFS trail to Lake Eva. The hike was fine, but our timing was poor because we landed on a following tide and had to drag our kayaks a long way across a muddy shoreline and even further after our hike. Not wanting a muddy dog, we carried Drake across the muddy parts of the beach.

After one last night at anchor in the outer cover to DeGroff Bay, we returned to Sitka the morning of Wednesday, June 26.