Tag Archives | Grand Banks

     Sunday, the day before Labor Day, Bill and I cycled to Silver Spring, MD, by way of Georgetown and Bethesda where we stopped for lunch at a delightful sidewalk cafe. Sadly, the Georgetown Branch Trail connecting Bethesda and Silver Spring closed the day after we rode it in preparation for the Purple Line of the Metro to be built. It will be closed for 5 years and re-routed but not through the shady woods but alone city streets and that’s far less than ideal.


     We got home just in time to grab a bite before heading to the Capitol for the final concert of the season by the National Symphony Orchestra. What a treat and with very patriotic overtures. That was definitely not an event to be missed.     

    Labor Day provided a great day of cycling orchestrated and led for Bill and me by our Bike Friday friend, Charmaine.  I thought I’d cycled the entire Anacostia Trail but she took us to the obscured part that I didn’t see as well as a portion of the trail that she takes on her commute to work. A word about this lady who’s a dynamo on a bicycle. She commutes RT 15 miles a day, rain, shine, sleet, or snow not greater than 3” deep. She takes her bike to all parts of the globe to cycle—alone or with a group. She doesn’t care as long as she gets to ride and enjoy the solitude of nature. 

     This was our 2nd day of cycling (50 miles within a period of 36 hours) and being unaccustomed to that distance, Charmaine probably thought she was leading a bike ride from the Old Folks’ Home but she was very patient with us—me, far more than Bill. He did a much better job of “keeping up”.  We stopped along the Metropolitan Branch Trail for lunch at a sidewalk cafe. We were all in need of “fuel” at that point. It’s on the same patio as a bike shop who’ll repair while you eat or enjoy a cup of java for a caffeine boost.  I love this city! Are you weary of my saying that?

     As we passed REI I heard it calling my name so we made a stop there for some much needed bike accessories to make our DC cycling more safe—or less vulnerable to traffic. The building now occupied by REI was originally built as the venue for the Beatles to perform decades ago which accounts for the many Beatles posters inside the store. That’s on Charmaine’s route to work and she was able to watch the construction/re-construction of the building before its Grand Opening just a few months ago.

     We cycled pasted this amazing mural that she said was started and completed in just a couple of weeks by 2 artists. The medium they used is impervious to graffiti—it’ll accept it but is easily removed. It’s difficult for you to see all the intricacies of the painting but near the center are the carving artists, the Piccirilli Brothers, hard at work. I love the silver-gray colors used in this beautiful artistic accomplishment.

Bill and Laura

Washington, DC

     Nancy, a friend who lived in this area for years, suggested a trip to the historic Frederick Douglass home so that’s what we did. I made reservations, we rode our bikes down teeth-jarring streets and side walks but found a smoother and shorter route home via the Anacostia Trail.

     Maybe years ago in school’s history classes, we were taught about Frederick Douglass, but if so, it’s long faded from my memory. This was a very sobering lesson in the tenacity and perseverence of this man who was born into slavery as Frederick Alugustus Washington Bailey.

     His mother, a slave, was forced to leave him as an infant. He never knew the identity of his white father who was possibly his mother’s owner. He lived in poverty, crowded into two rooms with grandparents and cousins. He was a slave–listed on an inventory along with mules and bushels of wheat. All this adversity didn’t break his spirit for he had an intellectual curiosity underterred by his circumstances. 

     When he was 8, he was sent to Baltimore to be a house servant.  His owner’s wife began teaching him to read but her husband walked in on  a teaching session and became very angry warning that education means “there will be no keeping him”. That’s when Frederick realized that “knowledge is freedom” so he taught himself to read and write in secret knowing that education was the pathway from slavery to freedom. He would trace over words in discarded spelling books until his handwriting was smooth and graceful. 

     By age 13 he was reading articles about the abolition of slavery to other slaves and when he escaped to freedom, Frederick eagerly used his hard-earned wisdom to lecture against slavery and to fight for the emancipation-not only of blacks but also women and other oppressed people.

     When he was 20, he dressed as a sailor, boarded a train and escaped to freedom in NYC. He married the woman who aided his escape, moved to MA and adopted Douglass as his surname from Sir Walter Scott’s poem, Lady of the Lake.

     Over his lifetime, his triumphs were many: abolitionist, women’s rights activist, author, owner-editor of newspapers, fluent speaker of many languages, Minister to Haiti, and most respected African American orator of the 1800’s.

     His home is on a high hill overlooking the city and was purchased by and is maintained by the National Park Service. While visiting we watched a video and it was so moving that I watched it again that evening at home. If you’re interested, the 33 minute video is very engaging. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxZClqEnRwQ

     Thank you, Nancy, for steering us in this direction.

     The first August morning and first day in Washington, DC, we got a late start on our morning walk meaning we finished when it was pretty dad gum hot. We walked from Gangplank over to Potomac Park, walked its perimeter, and back home totaling 6.6 miles. Pretty sweat-drenched when we got home but our walk felt good and we are so happy to be back in this city.

View of Washington Monument as we walked across the bridge to Haines Point.

                              Looking north up the Potomac

              A northward view up the Potomac River from our fly bridge

Condos and apartments by the hundreds are being built on DC’s Waterfront

Washington’s well-known seafood market

     Soon after arriving in Washington, we drove to upstate NY, Bill’s home, to celebrate, Doris, his sister’s, 88th birthday, and also the marriage of our great niece, Rachelle.

Along the way we relaxed along the Susquehanna River, PA, for a lunch stop.

     The wedding venue was an elegant old home with perfectly landscaped and manicured grounds.

A lounging area shrouded by a misting rain. 

The historic home where rehearsal party/dinner as well as part of the wedding reception was held.

     We’re having a most fun weekend of eating, drinking, dancing, and celebrating Rob and Rachelle’s marriage in Geneseo, NY.

     Letchworth State Park, New York, is proported to be the Grand Canyon of the east. Doesn’t quite rival THE Grand Canyon but this is a deep canyon cut by the Genesee River.

     In the mornings, my days began with coffee in Doris’s huge back yard, stretched out in her swing. Some mornings I was shivering in the 64 freezing degrees in Williamson, NY! Brrrrr! What a great way to start the day.

     I am from a very small family—very few relatives on my father’s side and (what I considered) “a whole bunch” on my mother’s side—maximum of 10—no more—for family get-togethers. The numbers of Bill’s relatives are legion! Yesterday for the 88th birthday of his sister, Doris, there were upwards of 42 of her/our kin in her backyard. And that’s not all!  Quite a few were unable to make it due to a honeymoon, working out of town, etc. I kidded her saying it’s all because of her that her progeny is so great. And at her party, a new pregnancy of 8 weeks was announced with an ultrasound photo in Doris’s birthday card. That caused much happiness and rejoicing.

     Lunch with sister-in-law, Doris; adorable and brilliant niece, Teagan, from South Carolina; and long-suffering husband, Bill, at Genesee Brew House. We’re on the deck overlooking the Genesee River.

             

    Isn’t Teagan adorable! Kodak building in background. If only I had some wire to put into her pigtails I could turn her into Pippi Long Stockings. Don’t think college freshmen looked that young and cute back in the day. And the brilliance and creativity inside that cute little head…!!!

                                                Genesee River

                                                  Rochester, NY

                                     Another view of Rochester

     Lots of people out enjoying Canandaigua City Park and the 71 degree August weather.

Canandaigua Lake, NY

Some of the little houses along the docks. Wonder if they’re called “dock houses”? 

     Upstate NY is really beautiful with gorgeous farms and rolling hills. Our visit and celebrations were wonderful fun but t’was time to return home.

     Years ago in DC, we met Charmaine, a cycling dynamo and also a member of the Bike Friday “cult”. We were looking forward to reuniting with her on this trip. The 3 of us met for dinner at Elephant and Castle on Pennsylvania Avenue. After dinner, she, Bill, and I are enjoying the Navy band at the US Navy Memorial, also on Pennsylvania Ave.

     When the Army song was played, a woman next to us popped up and stood at attention not moving a muscle. That made me have wet eyes and gave me goose bumps. I’m so proud to be an American, exceedingly thankful for our freedom and appreciative of those who served and are currently defending our country.

      I love this city!!! I LOVE the ethnic diversity; the various skin colors; myriad of facial features; the many languages and dialects. This is very refreshing because I weary of the homogeneity of many of our cities and towns. It’s so refreshing to see not just Caucasians and hear not only English. I’m loving every second of being here and everyone is so convivial. If I didn’t know better I’d think I was in the deep south. And I love how we can get anywhere in a heart beat on our bikes while cars sit in traffic polluting and tourists trudge through the heat looking exhausted. The educational opportunities here are endless as are the chances for fabulous workouts to say nothing of the inexhaustible bikeways and sidewalks for walking and running. Bill really enjoys running on the packed dirt on the Mall. And I love cycling regardless of the surface.

     Bill’s the spreadsheet guru of our family and I (almost always) just fly by the seat of my pants. Life’s more fun that way. Just never know what’s going to happen next! BUT, I’ve developed a spread sheet of the whens, wheres, and whats of each day. Don’t want to miss a beat and no way to check everything off the list. We’ve been here a month at a time twice before and this time for 2 months and our dance card is already maxed out. Maybe next year we can be here for 3 months. The marina is primarily live aboards–transients are rare birds here– but they’ve embraced us with out stretched arms– into their community.

     I may never come down from my endorphin high from a Saturday workout. Right here at our front door on Saturdays is a yoga class and a heart-racing, fast paced workout led by a guy who must be propelled by jet fuel. With great trepidation, I went to the 9 AM workout, got on back row certain I wouldn’t be able to keep up and would have to bail. What an incredible experience and tremendous endorphin high creating for me a euphoric state lasting for the rest of the day. Doing repetitive jumping jacks changing direction with every 2nd one, squats, etc.,  all to fast-paced music was something I haven’t done in years and frankly, never envisioned ever getting to do again. Have no idea where the pre-conditioning came from since, unfortunately, “exercise doesn’t keep”, but I zipped through that 50 minute workout like I’d been doing that several times a week forever. Had to pinch myself to see if it was really me!  I was soaked to the bone and dripping with sweat. The 50 minute yoga afterward was just a cool-down and much needed. Should I attribute my success to my new pace maker or to his cuteness? Whatever!!!  I’ve not done an aerobic workout like that in years–maybe even decades. Can’t wait for Saturday morns. Come along if you’re near. 

     Have I said yet that I’m loving it here? The opportunities? The people?? Fantastic! I’ll just be corny and say, “I HEART Washington, DC”

     Lunch with boating friends from Severna Park, Tom, our cycling guru, and Elinor. We met half way and had a magnificent time catching up. Guess it’s because it’s “new” but really entertained by taking public transportation here. It’s fast, efficient, I can read en route—but the people-watching is supurb. We took the train and met them in New Carrollton. 

      Never a lack of activity around here. This Dragon Boat race went on all day long one Saturday complete with a Man with a Mike who loved the sound of his voice!

    

     One morning I left home at 0715 (to beat the heat) to ride the Anacostia Trail. Another one checked off my list. Very few bike commuters but the vehicular traffic—oh, my word!!! Inhaling exhaust fumes was awful. Have I said yet how much I love this place, the opportunities, the people, and the cultural diversity. We’re extending our stay past our intended 2 months which would’ve ended 30 September. But when the frost is on the pumpkin, we’ll be making southern tracks.

     The Anacostia Riverwalk Trail is an important piece of the transportation network here and was a priority project under President Obama’s America’s Great Outdoors initiative. The planned 28-mile trail, spanning both sides of the Anacostia River, connects DC residents in 16 waterfront neighborhoods, to their workplaces, schools, shopping, recreational amenities and the outdoors. It provides access to Diamond Teague Park, the historic Navy Yard, RFK Stadium, and Anacostia Park. It runs through beautiful Kenilworth Aquatic Garden and  connects to the Anacostia River Trail in Maryland. The trail provides access to a number of national treasures including the Tidal Basin (famous for its cherry blossoms in the spring), the National Arboretum, and the National Mall — US Capitol, Smithsonian museums, the Washington Monument and other iconic landmarks.

     Cycling at night in DC is a unique way to see the city. The tourists are all exhausted and are back in their hotels so we had it to ourselves. Quiet! Beautiful! A gentle breeze. We could see so much more without droves of people everywhere. Loved it!

    

      Great lunch at a fun Greek restaurant in Arlington, Kapnos Taverna, with boating friends—Elle, Dick, Ted, and Nancy–and eclipse watching. I had grilled octopus that was deliciously scrumptious. Then we went outside to enjoy the eclipse. Thoughtful Nancy had the proper eye wear for us else we’d have been peering through a cereal box or something less creative. A memorable day with long-time friends.

     While Bill did his varnishing, I wanted a re-do of the Holocaust Museum. I’m glad I went and can check that one off the list. I learned things I don’t remember from my first visit and found the shoes, photos, and old movie clips as moving and poignant as ever. The museum was packed and despite the throngs, everyone treated it as a hallowed place. If there was any conversation at all, it was in low whispers. It isn’t a pleasurable visit but should be a must-see by every American. Its very effective aim is to educate the American public about the historical experience of an excruciatingly painful kind, so much so that it would be a calloused visitor who would emerge from there unmoved. The emotional, moral, and pedagogical impact the museum makes is powerful.

     Sadly, this museum won’t protect Jews or other minorities from genocide in the future but it informs and bears witness to the Holocaust’s existence, providing a warning to whomever wishes to learn from it, that those who would dehumanize people in order to destroy them, also dehumanize themselves.

     On a lighter note, we went to Strathmore College for the Arts for their annual on-the-lawn Uke Fest. It was fun and incredible to watch and hear the sounds that the skilled musicians can extract from that little 4 string instrument. It’s inspired me to dig mine out, dust it off, and begin from scratch — again— in learning to play. The evening air was so comfortable making for a delightful respite. 

     Bill’s using his Multi-Master to remove Thyocol on decks so I cycled to Arlington to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier—always a somber and moving experience—then to the Sculpture Garden for Friday Night Jazz — then to a SW venue for Jazz at Six. They wouldn’t let me in because I didn’t have $5!!! Stopped at Safeway and in the park area there, there were steel drums and reggae. Nobody asked me for $5. Really—does anybody ever carry money anymore? Got my phone and Apple Pay. What more do I need? $5, I guess.

     

                                                Chain Bridge
                             My little Bike Friday in foreground

      Arlington National Cemetery encapsulates America’s history—a living tribute to our Nation’s past and how it continues to thrive through the service and sacrifice of those willing to dedicate their life to her ideals.  

                              As far as the eye can see in every direction….

    This national shrine is the final resting place for more than 400,000 active duty service members, veterans and their families. “Service to country” is the common thread that binds all who are honored and remembered here.

     The cemetery is located on land that once belonged to George Washington Custis, grandson of Martha Washington and step-grandson of George.   In 1857, Custis willed the 1100 acre property to his daughter who was married to Robert E. Lee. After the Lee family vacated the estate in 1861 at the beginning of the Civil War, federal troops occupied the acreage as a camp and headquarters.

   

     The number of Civil War casualties was outpacing other local Washington, DC-based cemeteries, the property became a burial location.  The War Department allocated 200 acres of the property to use as a cemetery and by the end of the war, thousands of service members and former slaves were buried there.  Approximately 27-30 funeral services are conducted every single week. More than 3,000 ceremonies and memorial services also take place at the cemetery each year.

    

     A walking tour was available for the MLK March so we jumped on that. The memorial is exquisite, preserving his memory. He was a visionary, minister, and an intellectual, unwavering advocate of social justice, and martyr to peace, equality, and justice. Although most widely known for his leading role in the African-American civil rights movement in the United States, Dr. King was also a tireless advocate for the nation’s working class and the oppressed around the world.

     The monument reinforces the place of his courageous leadership in our nation’s march toward freedom, proudly standing in the vista between the Lincoln Memorial and the Jefferson Memorial.

     It was on the steps of the Lincoln Memorial that Dr. King delivered his “I Have a Dream” speech, reaffirming his belief in the ultimate redeemability of the words in the Constitution and Declaration of Independence as that “promissory note to which every American will fall heir.”

     There is so much symbolism in the orientation of the monument, the color and quality of the granite from which it is carved, and its environs of stone, earth, and water. His speech the day before his death was sadly prophetic.  “…I don’t know what will happen now…but it doesn’t really matter…because I’ve been to the mountaintop….Like anybody, I would like to live a long life…. I’m not concerned about that now, I just want to do God’s will.  And He’s allowed me to go to the mountain. And I’ve looked over, and I’ve seen the Promised Land….” The next day he was assassinated in Memphis.This was particularly significant to us because we were recently in Memphis and visited the museum and motel where Dr. King’s life ended.

     Once upon a time, long long ago, Kindred Spirit III was in Ashley Marina, Charleston. Our home in Greenville, SC, sold in a heart beat so I moved on board. Bill was still working so he was commuting. No idea what came over me but I knocked on the hull of a sail boat one day and made the acquaintance of Curt and Judy. When Bill came home for the weekend, he met them and we’ve been fast friends since and have rendezvoused with them in various places along the waterways over the years. Our favorite, of course, is being at their dock and visiting in their home in Lusby, MD.  

     Said all that to say this—Curt used to live in Morocco and they’ve traveled extensively so today the 4 of us enjoyed a Moroccan meal in Arlington. It was a entertaining cultural and gastronomic escapade for us and chatting with them is always a treat. Curt’s never forgotten a thing he’s ever known and we love listening to him. Judy’s an artist making jewelry from genuine sea glass.

     The Arena Stage acros the street from us had a huge sale—costumes, shoes, wigs, props, you name it. They also had entertainment on all 4…or 5 levels of the venue with music, aerial acrobatics, and acrobatics. Free!  Entertainment in this city costs next to nothing. All that needed is to just show up!

     Surely I’m omitting some of what we’ve seen and done but considering the length of this “month’s report”, one wouldn’t think so.  Loving it!  Loving it! Loving it!  Will attempt conciseness next month—famous last words!


Bill and Laura
Aboard Kindred Spirit III
Gangplank Marina
Washington, DC

      “Don’t be afraid of death; be afraid of an unlived life. You don’t have to live forever, you just have to live.”    Quote by Natalie Babbitt.

     Many of us spend our days muddling through the mundane with each day as predictable as the next, waiting for vacation time to take that trip, or travel to visit family or friends not seen for years. We fool ourselves into the mindset of limitless time and catch ourselves saying, “Oh, well, there’s always next year!” However, as our aging becomes apparent, reality sets in and living becomes more about quality instead of quantity.

     Cruisers and RV-ers are fortunate people who have come to this realization and opted for a nonconventional way of life in order to embrace our moments and days, rather than months and years—true adventurers who set out to find what the world has to offer.

     

     The hot month of July began with a bang. Our cruising is dictated by weather and mechanical status so we were delayed departing Wild Dunes/Mt. Pleasant/Charleston by a few days. Nothing to be sad about. We have friends there whom we love so hanging around a few extra days wasn’t a chore.  As I’ve said before, we can’t make plans—we just have intentions and they’re cast in dilute Jello. After 10 years, this lifestyle has just about broken my rigidity.  The most difficult part of having to leave was saying goodbye to our church, our volunteer placement, and friends there. 

     We’ve had great cruising weather and beautiful calming breezes for anchoring at night. 

     We’ve heard so many glowing reports about Osprey Marina but had never stopped there because of a beautiful anchorage that we love in very dark tannic water and surrounded by elegant cypress trees. 

     My morning walk today was somewhat pastoral! Heard chickens crowing, loved on horses noses, and observed the Billy Goats Gruff from afar.

                 Farm life seen on my morning walk near Osprey Marina     

     Most probably “we’ll never pass this way again” so we spent a night in Osprey.

     A couple of nights found us in Southport, NC, visiting with boating friends and Jim, my “role model” watercolorist. Robert and Kay’s front porch is an absolute “destination”. Their house is perched on a bank with nothing between them and the water but a one-way road. They get the coffee going at 5:45 AM and cocktails at 5:00 PM so there’s a constant flow of folks all day and night. Loved rocking on their front porch and watching the water and boats coming and going.

     It’s questionable whether I’ll ever grow up. I’ve had this kite for decades and just found it in the bowels of the lazerette so flew it from our aft deck while in Southport Marina. I feel even more free than the kite—I have no string attached.

     We enjoyed dinner with Patsy and Rick at a wonderful restaurant on the main drag. Food and service were great at Mr. P’s Bistro, and catching-up conversation about our lives over the past 3 years was non-stop.

     No trip through Swansboro is complete without a stop at Casper’s Marina and breakfast at Yana’s–straight from the ’50’s!

We summoned all of our resolve and by-passed her wonderful peach fritters. 

    

     As an experiment the town set up a water slide down a street with the greatest incline but think they lacked enough water to make it fun. People were on their little swim rings pushing along like water bugs to get to the bottom but it was a big hit. Young, old, big, and small were lined up for tickets.

    

     One of our favorite anchorages is Adams Creek. It also holds bitter-sweet memories ad that’s where our little Bailey Dawg took her life while we were anchored there several years ago. She was very arthritic and we had and appointment to have her put down but she just couldn’t wait two more weeks so she took care of that herself.  We have boating/RV friends, Lee and George, who live on the waterfront within sight of our anchorage so they hopped in their skiff with a bucket of crabs and came out for a visit. Their visit was sweet and so were the crabs.

     At last we arrived in Oriental! We’d been looking forward to seeing Gina and Ernie AND their new round house. Ernie was our children’s and my swim coach 30 years ago when he was just a tow-headed new Wake Forest grad. The first US Masters Swimming Nationals that I went to was in Irvine, CA, and Ernie, another of our swimmers, and I went out there to swim. After that I was hooked on Masters Swimming. Gina used her civil engineering talents to design the interior of their home. It’s spacious, quite open, of course, and very few walls except for bedrooms and baths. Ernie grew up in Singapore so their decor has that flavor. Great to catch up with them and fun to see their “igloo”.

                      Adieu to Oriental and happy the Neuse is nice today.

     We anchored for 3 nights but the temps were rising so we spent a night at AYB and took advantage of their 50 amp and our A/C. When there in Great Bridge, we always have to patronize El Toro Loco and this time was no exception.  

    Used to be a Lock Virgin till the 100+ we did in 2012. The Great Bridge Lock was underwhelming. Not even sure if we went up or down. Big to-do about nothing. Just more practice in un-lassoing cleats. Now steaming at 8.4 kts providing us with a refreshing gentle wind.

     

     We spent 4 nights in Norfolk’s Waterside Marina and what a treat that was!  It’s been several years since we’ve been in Norfolk and has it ever changed!!! Except for the snow, this is a place I could live. Gentrification is rampant downtown. So much construction is underway and this work was being done even over the weekend. 

     The new Hilton has an incredible art display on their 5 floors. We spent quite a long time there last night just enjoying the different types of visual art. Additionally, the building is quite exquisite. If you’ve not been to Norfolk in a while, you wouldn’t recognize it. The waterfront with Waterside Marina, restaurants, and bars has exploded into life. We’re moving on this morning but we’ve thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Norfolk. I think it has the friendliest people of anywhere we’ve been. EVERYBODY wears a smile, speaks, offers a compliment or a positive comment.

     Chrysler Museum of Art is a collection of 30,000 objects and more than 50 exquisite galleries filled with paintings, sculpture, glass, photography, and the decorative arts, this gallery delighted, inspired, and transformed me. 

     Can you believe that this world-class collection is always free. 

     Photography is encouraged and these can be shared on their site. Artists are welcomed to sketch in the galleries with dry media. Wet media is also allowed with permission.

     The museum opened in 1933 and the building reminded me of the palaces of the Italian Renaissance with a U-shaped palazzo surrounding a courtyard that faces the Hague Inlet of the Elizabeth River.

     We had a surprise serendipity when Mike and his friend, John, pulled into the slip next to us. It was Mike’s slip we used when we were in Wild Dunes. His boat was at Zimmerman’s for some first aid and they stopped at Waterside for a few nights on their way back to S.C.

     

     The high point of our time there was visiting with Sydney, our granddaughter, who’s now a proud Norfolk resident.  

     Bill toured Nauticus and the Wisconsin while Sydney took me through the NEON District and The Plot, an artsy and creative community gathering space constructed of materials reclaimed from the site and other city sources.  The Plot celebrates the community effort to create a better Norfolk block by block and it’s definitely happening. 

     She and I also spent time in the Chrysler Art Museum – a massive display and impossible to absorb it all in one day.

     The main library downtown is a place to include on your to-do list. 

     The Dallas Morning News voted Slover Library one of 5 best libraries worth traveling to visit.. 

     

     A corner of the old and one of the new. Its architecture is award winning; 

     There is are giant touchscreen photo gallery; they offer free live music events and technology classes.  The KidZone has a video game lounge. 3D printers and a large format printer are available for the use of patrons.Daily tours are also offered. 

     Each morning we walked the waterfront, Ghent, and  Freemason Harbor.  The Marine Observation Tower, also known as the Taiwanese Pagoda, is the centerpiece for a serene garden.  The tower was a gift to the Commonwealth of Virginia and the City of Norfolk honoring Taiwan’s trading ties with Virginia. There’s a two-story pagoda, with Chinese architectural details and ornamentation sits on the concrete foundation of an old molasses tank. On Sunday mornings they provide a mouthwatering waffle buffet.

    

      

     The primary focal point from our niche in the marina, is Town Point Park along the Elizabeth River. The park is anchored at each end with fountains. The fountain just off our bow is an interactive fountain and children and adults were loving it in the sweltering temperatures. The large rectangular grassy area is dissected by walk ways and comfortable furniture is arranged beneath shady trees. Ping pong is available, hula hoops, corn hole, and a variety of games for parents and their children to enjoy on weekends.

           

     Live music is provided daily except for Mondays. Sunday afternoon we enjoyed a steel drum band performed by area high school students who earn a place through auditioning. It was so refreshing to see those teenagers thoroughly enjoying playing and entertaining and each wearing a smile.

     As we cruised north from Norfolk, passing numerous facilities belonging to the Navy–AND us, we saw several hovercrafts making much noise, kicking up oceans of water, but moving like a snail. Their top speed is 80 mph.

     In Virginia’s Northern Neck, returning to Olverson’s Marina is like coming home again. 

     After spending 4 nights there, it was time to move on but not before thoroughly enjoying visiting with long-time friends. Jon, Page, and Shirley took us to Cole’s Point Tavern. 

 

    We love ‘dives’ and this was our kind of place. Everyone’s food was spectacular. My crab cake was almost as big as the plate and was ALL crab. The parking lot is in VA but the tavern is in MD. The state line runs along the shore line and MD owns the Potomac River.

     Don’t know what came over me. Maybe it’s the fresh country air but on my morning walk I went 6.6 miles over rocky roads, across corn rows, and down cow paths. Just couldn’t stop. Felt like the Energizer Bunny or like a wind-up toy whose legs just keep going. Really felt great and I loved it.

     We had the honor of attending a memorial service for a retired Marine and an icon of cruising and anything related to boating and the element in which that activity is enjoyed in the Northern Neck. This was the first military service that I’d ever attended and it was very moving. I’m pretty much over-the-top regarding patriotism so it was difficult to maintain dry eyes. I was right beside the Marines who participated in the flag folding ceremony and presentation to the family and my eyes never left theirs. 

     We saw this darling little church on a provisioning run and just needed to stop, snap, and share.

      Our final evening was a terrific treat in the lovely Rivah Cottage of Bill and Rosemary. She attributed the spread to Wegman’s but nevertheless, it was elegant, complete with candle light. Mutual friends, Wendy and Russ, were also guests so we had a “catching up” good time.

    We cast off our lines and continued north. It’s always kinda sad to leave Olverson’s. We were strangers on our dock but those who live in the area and keep their boats there on that dock were very friendly and welcoming to us. 

     

     We arrived in our nation’s capitol 31 July and will spend 2 months here. We’ve been here for a month on 2 different occasions so need more time to delve deeper into this incredible city.

     This will be our home for 2 months and we can’t wait to get out and see what’s new, changed, and different.

     

Sweet dreams and hope your July was as fantastic as ours has been.


Bill and Laura Bender
Aboard Kindred Spirit III
Gangplank Marina
Washington, DC

     

     The end of June marks the near end of our stay on Isle of Palms. We arrived 20 May and in that period of time, lots has been accomplished and revealed. Of course, Bill’s spent many hours sanding and varnishing with 3 coats on and 8 more to go. Then he’ll attack the transom as he lies on his side. Bless his heart. He works so hard to keep our teak in beautiful condition.

     We’ve both completed our medical/dental/vision appointments for another 6 months. We can’t say enough approving and favorable words about the MUSC system. Everyone, from the most basic position, up the ladder, excel in exceptional customer service. Once you’re in their data base, every physician that you see has visibility of and can read notes from your other care providers.

     

     I’ve been bradycardic for decades with a resting heart rate around 46-48 bpm from my years of competitive swimming. On Monday, the day after we arrived, I saw my PCP where my HR of 33 was documented—several times. He was surprised that I was vertical, had good color, and had never passed out. Tuesday found me in the cardiologist’s office—with a HR of 33. Wednesday I was in the electrophysiologist’s office who said that my getting a pacemaker was not up for discussion. Friday morning I was in the OR for that procedure. My head was spinning at how rapidly things occurred which is another reason that we sing the praises of MUSC. This little device has absolutely changed my life. Before I had no zip and when we were out west, I attributed the altitude to my inability to cycle or hike but when we got to Hilton Head Island, nothing had changed and HHI’s as flat as a fritter. Now, we know why. I feel like a million bucks with the energy of a 6 year old. Wish I’d gotten that gadget long ago. Technology is so cool! Every 3 months, I check in with the Nurse Practitioner via my phone and a transducer (I guess) transmitting info to her. Did you know that as our years increase, our heart rate diminishes so since mine was in the 40’s, it didn’t have an appreciable cushion to drop. The pacemaker has made such a vast improvement in my energy level that Bill’s trying to find a way to turn it off.

     Bill’s dermatologist biopsied a lesion just beneath his eye and the path report was positive for basal cell so he went to a most excellent MOHs surgeon that I have seen in the past. He isn’t in the MUSC network but is very skilled in this procedure AND writes lyrics, composes music, sings, plays piano and guitar. Now Bill has a nice long vertical scar on his face but it is fast fading and almost unnoticeable.

      Nearly every morning since my New Happy Heart, I was up and OTD before the sun awoke, experiencing exhilarating beach walks. The fresh early quiet with the music of the birds and the tide rolling in is a treat of which I never tire. A bit after sunrise, folks are out with their dogs. I LOVE watching dogs run on the beach and play in the surf. That makes me laugh out loud all alone and by myself! They are running at break neck speed which carves a smile on my face that lasts all day. Watching them makes me happy. This is one of my favorite things!  I get in my 10,000 steps but the biggest charge was watching all these dogs run, gallop, charge into the surf, catch balls on the fly. I had a big grin plastered on my face the entire time. I’m going to miss that when we leave here next week. It is such a hoot.

                            

    

     

     Hanging out at Dunleavy’s Pub, Sullivan’s Island, enjoying the music of Carroll Brown,with our friends, Joan, John, Betsy, Jim, and Bill.

   As this month draws to a close, our days are packed to the hilt with those final things that need to be done before casting off and they can be done ONLY at the 11th hour. 

     We’ve enjoyed having friends for dinner and the night Jim and Betsy were here, look at this beautiful gift at end our day.

     On the 29th, the love of my life celebrated his 71st birthday!!! I am so proud to be his wife. He is a wonderful man whose character is beyond reproach. Love you to infinity, Bill!

     One of the things we’ve most taken pleasure in is reconnecting with Seacoast, our church, in volunteering as greeters and participating in a small group each week. Because of our vagrant life style, we don’t have the benefit of the warmth of “community” but Seacoast has filled this void during the 6 weeks we’ve been here.

     Wishes for a safe long holiday weekend as we enjoy our freedom and thank those who have and are serving to keep us free.

Bill and Laura

Kindred Spirit III

Wild Dunes Yacht Basin

Isle of Palms, SC

    With this blog, I’m the bearer of good news. Instead of sending a notice to your inbox every time we post, if you would like to follow our blog, when you open it, there’s an obvious option to “subscribe”. If you chose that, you’ll receive a notification. If not, then you’re spared the boredom of these missives. We hope you elect to follow us. Never now where we may show up.

     Yesterday, Thursday, was our last day on Hilton Head. We had 1 more restaurant to check off our list so we cycled to Hudson’s Seafood House on the Docks on Skull Creek. We lunched on their deck and the food was totally outstanding. As we were about to leave a very long sea creature swam up near the shore so all the diners sprang to their feet with cameras poised. It looked like a gator but they aren’t in salt water so must’ve been a croc…? Wonder what the interaction would be between it and dolphins?

                             What is it? Looks quite at home in salt water.

                                A close up look at Neptune’s Trident

    After enjoying Tallahassee’s museums, galleries, and bike trails, we moved on this morning with St. Mary’s, GA, and our beloved trawler, in our cross hairs. Excited! Our 6 months of RV-ing has lengthened to 11 months because of wanting to reposition our boat but now we can resume our 6 months here and 6 months there!

                         Kindred Spirit III poised and ready to be splashed!    


     Today we arrived St. Mary’s, GA, and reunited with our trawler temporarily. We’re going to take a few days vacation before storing our coach and boarding our boat.

     16 April – Easter Sunday was a serendipity because we were able to spend it with our first cousin, Diane, and her husband, Bill, in their new home in Ocala. We haven’t seen them in several years and then it was very brief—we attended a graduation in NC.

     18 April – Our vacation was very restful and informative as we combined a fact-finding tour with being “away from home”.

     All aboard!!!! Oh, how good it feels and sounds to have water moving beneath our hull once more.

                                         Jekyll Island Marina

 Brunch in the island’s hotel that used to be called The Millionaire’s Club. Guess they’re so common now that they had to come up with Jekyll Island Club Hotel.

                                                The KIC Hotel

 Love these majestic oaks and the moss trailing from their branches

     The hotel’s veranda where we savored a cocktail and the sunset

     20 April – Today is day 3 aboard and on the water. I bet I’ve bent, twisted, stooped, walked, cycled, squatted, hefted, hoisted, lifted, thrown…more in these 3 days than in the 11 months on the coach. I’ve lost more than a pound a day. Land cruising made me fat, lazy, and not a poster child of a fit 76 year old. Cruising is very physical and definitely a workout. I’m loving it. Was beginning to feel like a marshmallow with feet. Tonight’s our first night at anchor and oh,  how I look forward to the rocking, swinging, no TV, no traffic, not a sound except the water lapping against our hull—just us and the wide open water. Sleeping’s gonna be GOOD tonight!

     21 April – Last night, night # 3, we anchored and t’was the best night’s sleep I think I’ve EVER had. Didn’t move a muscle all night long. I was born to be in and on the water—my element! How could I EVER consider trading this life for living on dirt! We’ve been on board for 10 years and I’ve always loved it but now I have a greater love and deeper appreciation for this life style than I’ve ever had before because its status of “temporary” seems ever more real.

    22 April – Was going to wait till later today to chronicle in case anything interesting happened but it probably won’t. Bill’s out and I’m in trying to scrub off 11 months of being on the hard in a boat yard. There’s a coating of grim EVERYWHERE inside and out—just of a different kind.

     My rant for the day—you may recall my posts about how different RV-ers are compared to boaters…. From about 20 months of RV-ing, we haven’t met a soul we’ll ever connect with again. When we pulled into our slip yesterday, the lady, next to our slip, came out, welcomed us, and ironically, she’s a mutual friend of our friends, Mary and Larry, who said be sure and look them up when we arrived. Then a guy from a motor sailor down the dock came down to welcome us and he and Bill talked forever. His wife offered to teach us how to do a paddle board. Something I’ve aways wanted to do–looks so fun. May be a fiasco–my core went away while on the coach. Another boat owner from down the dock that we’d met long ago, came down to welcome us. May never want to leave this place!! So the moral of the story is–boaters are the best and friendliest folks on the face of our blue marble world.

     23 April – If the huge bronze stature of King Neptune could look over his right shoulder, this would be his view of Kindred Spirit III. Bill cycled 35 miles today but I wimped out at 18.5. It’ll take a while to get enough saddle time to be able to match him. That’s my goal! This is an incredible place to cycle.

                                       Iconic bronze statue of King Neptune 

     26 April – Thought this day would never come. This is day #5 in Shelter Cove Marina and every day something has prevented me from getting in the pool. Today was a euphoric reunion with the water. My brain, heart, soul, and spirit are now in ecstasy. The pool doesn’t equal St. Petersburg’s nor Wild Dunes but it is a swimmable rectangle and I am delighted. 

     May 3   What a glorious day we had and also the worst day of wolfing down foods not on our eating plan. Bill’s rationalization was that we’d “cycle it off.” I think we’d need to ride across the state and back to even come close to burning the calories that we consumed. We had breakfast at a bakery but our pastry was most definitely not worth the calories. We cycled to check out Hudson’s and then to Skull Creek Boat House for lunch. A pleasant respite but again, far off the course of what we consider a healthy diet—but fabulous and a treat for our taste receptors.

     That wasn’t the only of our senses that were loving our outing. The Confederate Jasmine are blooming everywhere and their blossoms permeated the air with my favorite fragrance. Deep inhalations were a treat for the sense of smell.

                                                 On our bike ride to Coligny

                                 My very own pool that I’ve not had to share

                                  Spied this relic from the past on our bike ride 

             A shrimp boat anchored in front of Hudson’s Seafood Restaurant

                                Rusty nautical finds at Hudson’s.

                                     Lunch at The Boathouse on Skull Creek


     There’s a plethora of shopping of all varieties just walking distance from our marina. This caught my eye so I went home, got Bill, ordered a beer and pizza for him and he seemed quite content as I strolled away.

   

     The song birds were in abundance and saturated the atmosphere with a cacophony of exquisite harmonics.

     
     We parted ways. I wanted to swim and Bill wanted to log more distance. He cycled 35 miles—the man’s an animal— but I wimped out at 22 miles. I did get in a good swim and once again, had the pool all to myself. I don’t have to share a lane and not even the pool.

     Two mini-rants: It disturbs me to see people riding bikes without helmets. I wouldn’t ride around the block without one. Both of us have experienced two incidences each where our helmets saved our craniums. You never PLAN to have an awning try and take you out or a canvas sign hanging from a fence that billows out as you’re passing throwing you into a line of traffic—so that’s why they call them ACCIDENTS. I wanted to preach to each of them but there were too many and I’d have been left far behind. Did see a little punk about 7 with his helmet in his basket. Told him it needed to be on his head and he flipped me off. Probably said, “mind your own business, old woman.” Don’t recall 7 year olds being acquainted with the social digit back in the day.

     Another bothersome thing today was a large overweight redneck gringo strolling the sidewalk while a hispanic man was gathering up all the cones and their bases along the roadway which was amounting to a significant stack and weight. I wanted to have a word with, what I assumed, was the Latino’s supervisor. “Why don’t you help him out and carry some. Might help you shed a pound or two.” The scene really angered me because I felt he was taking advantage of the worker.

     May 7 – We retired from Greenville, SC, and last night we were entertained in the home of a couple who also lived in Greenville but relocated to Prichardville, about 21 miles NE of Hilton Head Island.  Our host, Charles and Bill knew each other from their Michelin employment. 

     May 8 – Today we needed to get in some cycling to avenge our gastronomic misdeeds last night. We’ve always enjoyed riding around the plantations but no more! That’s pretty disappointing but there are threats of prosecution if you enter. There are plenty of miles to ride on the paths but looking at homes and their landscaping was always a treat. 

     We rode the beach today with a fierce head wind. You know, there are just some things you can’t un-see and this afternoon was one of them. What a mass of humanity and school’s not even out yet. Can’t imagine what it will be like in the summer. The beach was not a place that I enjoyed. Enough was enough so decided to alter my route.

     May 9 – Lunch with friends, Suzy and Michael, who loved us enough to drive all the way from St. Mary’s, GA, to spend the day with us and have lunch at The Big Bamboo Cafe. Great day and we love these sweet people. How’d we meet? That’s another story for another time.

     May 9 – was a YOYO day. (You’re On Your Own.) I did a short bike ride then swam. Again—the pool to myself and it was the best swimming workout I’ve had since we’ve been here. The water was 74 degrees and felt absolutely blissful.

    

     May 10 – This is long and I offer no apologies. It’s the narrative of our day’s activity, is memorable, and I merely wish to share. We took “an unplugged exploration of Daufuskie Island. The 4 ½ hour historic tour began at Shelter Cove and we were whisked to the island by boat and under the guidance and narration of our guide, Charlie Thorn. He has done intense and in-depth research about the island, culminating in a book, Children of Shadows . (Available in print and also for Kindle.) He is so knowledgeable about all the history leading up to today. We learned about the rich Gullah, Indian, and Civil War history that makes this bridge-less island so unique.

        

     Daufuskie Island, tucked between Savannah , GA, and Hilton Head Island, SC, was inhabited by numerous native tribes until the early 1700’s when they were driven away from their land by explorers, traders, and settlers. While under British rule, plantations were developed, growing indigo and later Sea Island cotton. We learned that slaves were slaves of black families while they were still living in Africa. Slaves tilled the fields while plantation owners and their families spent much of the year away. The slaves’ isolation provided the setting for the retention of their African culture.

                            An iconic symbol for Daufuskie Island 

     

     At the beginning of the Civil War, slaves and their plantation owners fled the island and Union troops took it over. Post-war freed slaves, the Gullah people, returned to the island and purchased small plots of land or worked for pay for landowners.

     In the early 1900’s the boll weevil decimated the cotton fields and logging and oyster canning stepped in to provide jobs for the predominately Gullah populated island at the turn of the 20th century.

     In the 1950’s, pollution in the Savannah River closed the oyster beds resulting in a decline in the island’s economy. The Gullah people  began to leave the island for the mainland and better opportunities. By the 1980’s, the population decreased from 2,000 to less than 60. So here come the developers and Haig Point, Melrose, Oakridge, and Bloody Point were built. Since there’s no island access except by boat, that has enabled the Historic District to retain its spectacular and untainted beauty.The entire island is on the National Register of Historic Places.

     In golf carts, Charlie took us to studios of Daufuskie’s two internationally renowned island artisans who handcraft unique works found on this island. The Silver Dew Pottery shop is owned by Lance and Emily Burn. Her grandfather first came to Daufuskie in 1898. In 1913, he was light house keeper for Bloody Point Light. In the mid 1950’s, he owned and operated the Silver Dew Winery and that’s where the Burns got the name for their pottery business, which opened in 1997,

     They’ve found Indian pottery shards on the island and have copied the raised buttons, beads, and incisions in their new creations. Their potters wheel is solar powered and on the bottom of each piece is “STP” for Sun Thrown Pottery. Their glazes are lead-free and no two are alike. Each piece is numbered, dated, carries both their names, and has a motif on the bottom. 1,000 pieces are made under that motif and then it’s changed for the next 1,000. Each has a bit of Daufuskie in it. They sprinkle a small amount of their black beach sand over the clay prior to working it. It’s Magic Sand and will surely bring the purchaser back to their very special and magical “Out-Back Island.”

     Charlie took us to meet Chase Allen, a college graduate from North Carolina, who decided what he really wanted to do was to be a blacksmith and metal artist so he and his wife moved to the island and he’s doing magnificent metal work there. Someone asked if there was anything that swims in the ocean that he couldn’t use as a model and he said, “I don’t think so.” His friend asked, “How about a mermaid?”—he did—it’s his most popular piece. He has photos of the application of these pieces in his customer’s homes.  

    Charlie explained how these islanders exist on a bridge-less remote island without even a single grocery store and has fueled my interest in learning more.   I’ve read all the Conway works but long ago. Now I want to resurrect those from my library to read again,  as well as his book. This was a day well spent and we highly recommend Charlie’s tour through Outside Hilton Head.

     This is the only church on the island and is well attended every

                                    Sunday morning at 10:00 AM

     As we walked home, the Mexican restaurant San Miguel’s just reached out and snatched us in beneath their cool porch and plopped our favorite dish right before us. We dragged our full tummies home and fell into the bed for a wonderful nap.

     May 11 – Can you believe my pool is closed without warning nor explanation!!!  Tonight we thrilled to the music of one of our favorites, Target, the Band, composed of 3 musicians—a married couple and another man. They played for 3 hours without a break and they aren’t spring chickens either. They’ve been playing together 42 years and commented that many marriages don’t last that long. Their music was wonderful coupled with superb people watching. So many were out there shaking a leg to music we grew up with——if you grew up. That hasn’t happened to me yet.

We’ve only another week here before continuing north. Stay tuned.

Bill and Laura Bender

Kindred Spirit III

Grand Banks 42 Cl

Shelter Cove Marina

Hilton Head Island, SC

    

     There is an enormous Bass Pro Shop in Memphis housed in an equally enormous and iconic 32 story mirrored pyramid. Not only is Bass Pro located in there but there are restaurants and even a hotel!!! This expansive 535,000 square foot pyramid houses so much more with features and experiences for everyone.

     Their wilderness hotel is called the Big Cypress Lodge and overlooks nearly 600,000 gallons of water with a cypress swamp with 100 foot tall trees. There’s an 84,000 gallon alligator habitat and aquariums teeming with more than 1800 fish and Ducks Unlimited Waterfowl Heritage Center’s interactive ducks.  There’s a 13 lane ocean-themed bowling alley and the nations tallest 28 story freestanding glass elevator. 

      The riverfront is delightful and beautifully landscaped with paved walking, running, cycling paths. We enjoyed getting a little saddle time there and were pleased to see so many of the Memphis residents enjoying the spring time outdoors.

     This is the stained glass ceiling over the Peabody’s lobby bar where we savored Friday evening cocktails. The bartender put a tiny little yellow rubber ducky in my drink.

The Duckmeister of the Peabody Ducks

      A long time legend of The Peabody Hotel and the ducks were one of the reasons we wanted to visit Memphis. As we gathered with hundreds of others to enjoy the duck march from the fountain, down the red carpet, to the elevator, many asked the Duckmeister how the tradition began. Back in the 1930’s, the General Manager of The Peabody, and a friend, returned from a weekend hunting trip to Arkansas. The men had a little too much Tennessee sippin’ whiskey and thought it would be funny to place some of their live duck decoys in the beautiful Peabody fountain.  Three small English call ducks were selected as “guinea pigs” and the reaction was nothing short of enthusiastic. So began the Peabody tradition which was to become internationally famous.

The ducks condo is on the Peabody’s roof and this is a view of the river from their vantage point.

     While in Memphis, we toured the National Civil Rights Museum located in the Lorraine Motel, the site of Martin Luther King’s assassination. In the motel’s courtyard, there were video/audio “listening posts” that gave an overview of the museum’s history and why Dr. King came to Memphis. We spent quite a bit of time in the museum which was a very somber tour.  We were then directed across the street to tour other educational displays in the rooming house where James Earl Ray fired the fatal shot. 

 The exhibits chronicle key episodes of the American Civil Rights Movement and also addresses some of today’s civil and human rights issues. For me, it provoked a million thoughts and questions as I’m certain it did for others. Hopefully, it’ll serve as a catalyst for positive change. The displays and history re-telling was very poignant and sort of made me feel ashamed to being a Caucasian Southerner.  If you’re ever in the area, hopefully this’ll be on your bucket list. We had to choose this museum or Graceland and am so glad we made the right choice for us. Far more than most of us probably realize, the blacks have made a huge sacrifice for the progress they’ve made. I feel so proud of what they’ve become from what they were when I grew up in the ’40’s and ’50’s.

     We were hoping to enjoy some Memphis blues but even at BB King’s bar there was none. Plenty of the famed BBQ, though so we were singing the blues because there were no blues.

A strange facade just propped and standing on Beale Street

     

     The Clintons may have put Little Rock on the map, but this charming and historic capital city offers plenty of reasons to keep it there. The Central High Museum tells the painful, powerful story of the city’s racial struggles. For those who love to shop, hours can be spent at the River Market wherein lies a collection of tasty eateries and eclectic stores.

     Arkansas’s capitol city provided us with a lovely visit and our RV park was right on the AR river making all of our destinations very accessible by bike, public transportation, or on foot. We were close enough to the river bank to throw a rock and hit it. There were bass tournaments, barge traffic, and practicing rowing teams for our entertainment. There is a pedestrian bridge beside the park that once was a train trestle lift bridge. The evolution to a pedestrian bridge was quite cleaver and beautified by planters filled with blooming annuals. We made many trips across that bridge both on foot and on our bikes. 

     The pedestrian bridge ends/begins at the Clinton Library and Museum. Our docent kept us thoroughly entertained for 90 minutes. We weren’t ready for her to go home. She’s a retired history professor from the University of Arkansas and was a colorful delight. She was cute, spunky, and full of interesting AR history.

                               The Clinton Presidential Library

     Next door is the Heifer International Museum. We didn’t know a thing about it and only heard about it last week from boating/RV-ing friends who have volunteered with the organization for several summers. Their mission is to work with communities to end world hunger and poverty and to care for the earth. 

     A farmer from the midwest, Dan West, went to the front lines of the Spanish Civil War as an aid worker. His mission was to provide relief but he soon discovered the meager single cup of milk rationed to the weary refugees once a day, wasn’t sufficient. He had a brain storm—“What if they had not a cup but a cow?”  That “teach a man to fish” philosophy is what inspired Mr. West to found Heifer International and now, 70 years later, that philosophy still inspires their work to end world hunger and poverty throughout the world once and for all.

     Families are empowered to turn hunger and poverty into hope and prosperity by linking communities and helping bring sustainable agriculture and commerce to areas with a long history of poverty. Their animals provide the families with both food and a reliable income from products such as milk, eggs, and honey that can be traded or sold at market.

     The core of their model is Passing on the Gift which means that families share the training they received and pass on the first female offspring of their livestock to another family. This extends the impact of the original gift allowing a once impoverished family to become donors and full participants in improving their communities and achieving self-reliance. This is definitely a “must see” when you visit Little Rock.

     The River Trail is paved and perfect for cyclists, skaters, and walkers. It runs 28 miles along the river and was fairly flat which was a great relief after those AZ and NM hills. Needless to say, we throughly enjoyed our visit there.

     Now we’ve moved farther east on I-40 and are parked on the banks of the Mississippi River in Memphis.

Till later—

Bill and Laura

   
         We had quite a picturesque drive as we drove from Williams to Gallup.      

       It is a little complex to attempt to paint a picture of Albuquerque because it’s both time-worn and also cutting-edge with equal parts quaint and cool. We enjoyed strolling Old Town then went ‘downtown’ and were somewhat underwhelmed. Quite a few homeless and too many empty store fronts. Very limited pedestrian activity—other than the homeless who were in the sleeping mode as opposed to looking like pedestrians. We were about the only two out roaming around. We had to step over several sidewalk slumberers which was pretty unsettling. The university campus is quite attractive with adobe pueblos surrounded by the desert landscape. Of the two, Old Town was our fave and we found it quite charming.

     We took the Nine Mile Hill drive along Route 66 as it developed from the 1920’s through the 1960’s. The architecture and signs of several decades showcase the change and innovation that took place during that evolution. Historic buildings of particular interest were indicated on the Nine Mill Hill map by a designation telling the date and purpose of each building’s construction. 

    
   The architectural styles were interesting. Buildings from the heyday of Route 66 reveal some popular styles of the period in the Southwest. The style and their time spans help identify the building’s approximate age.

     The Pueblo Revival began in 1905 and is still a popular design. They are finished with stucco walls, a flat roof and rounded parapets, wood beams that project around the top of the house and porches with rounded posts.

     Another style dates from 1920 to 1950 and is known as the Southwest Vernacular. They’re very similar in that the walls are also stuccoed, flat roofs and often with an irregular parapet. Some own a slight Spanish or California Mission element such as a tiled porch, grouped windows, rounded doors, and iron railings 

     The Moderne style dates from 1930 to 1950, featuring rounded corners and windows, flow lines and zigzags, glass block, cantilevered awnings and pylons, and decorative towers rising from flat roofs. As we drove past these we could almost envision the time capsule that these buildings demonstrated.

               
                          A pretty little church adjacent to the town square in Old Town

                                                            From days of yore!

                                                                     And again!


     Today we arrived in Amarillo just for the evening. Bill’s out on an old car museum excursion leaving me behind to relax and paint.  Oh, happy day.


     From here we’ll cross OK, AR, TN as we point our noses to GA to pick up the boat. Sight seeing is just about over but if something earth-shattering occurs, I’ll be sure and let you know but for now, enjoy a well-deserved break for our blog.


Bill and Laura Bender
Amarillo, TX