COOK’S BAY
May 1st, 2014
Cook’s Bay – Moorea (French Polynesia)
S 17°30.206 – W 149°49.231
Passe Avaroa – (there is also a smaller passe Irihonu – we’ve seen small charter cats go through it to reach our anchorage.)
Between 2 weekends with our Tahitian family, we had a few days by ourselves, perfect for a bit of R&R in Cook’s Bay (Paopao.) This deep fjord-like bay is historical, mythic, under the hole in Pierced Mountain and the spire of Mount Mouaputa.
Although the chart shows PGEM restriction, it also shows an anchorage allowance albeit in 17 meters of water and mud bottom. We figured we’d restrain our anchorage at the bottom of the bay to 2 days, the PGEM restriction… or is that absolutely NO anchorage at the bottom of the bay? PGEM rules are definitely not clear! But since we’d seen half a dozen yachts anchored here all weekend, we decided to chance it. And it’s beautiful.
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| This Va’a rider (outrigger canoe) was determined to race across our bow as we were entering the pass! |
Breezy, yes it is, with gusts falling from the mountains and ripping through the bay. We did 360’s for 3 days and it was like being on a panoramic platform. It rained buckets, a good thing for the boat and our depleted water supply. In spite of the elements, we just sat in awe of the natural beauty of the site’s geological features.
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| “Pierced Mountain” |
Between two downpours, we managed to dock the dink at the fishing co-op, get fresh bread next to the station, and shop for souvenirs at Te Honu Iti (The Little Turtle,) a very nice souvenir shop next to Chez Roger.
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| Chez Roger – Just dinghy up for the finest meal in Polynesia |
I had been here 11 years ago, riding my bike around Moorea, and had lunch “Chez Roger – Te Honu Iti” (The Little Turtle.) I had come back for dinner 10 years ago, again on a ’round-Moorea biking trip, and had promised Roger I would be back for lunch, but not by bike: by yacht. And so it was. Roger is still here and although he didn’t remember me, he served us a finger-licking, memorable dinner, as only Roger is capable of. Trained in France in the greatest restaurants, Roger is first and foremost a “saucier.” He creates sauces you’ll never forget. I can still taste the swamp crab in lobster sauce I had 10 years ago. Well, JP treated us to dinner and Roger lived to our expectations. We shared a carpaccio of red tuna like nowhere else in the world, followed by shrimp-mahi ravioli in crab sauce, then veal sweetbreads in demi-glace sauce and a crispy thin apple tart for dessert. All that sprinkled with Roger’s sunny meridional accent and his giggles, stories of being a chef on luxury yachts and in California, an epic character to spend an evening with. So far, the best restaurant in French Polynesia!
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| Some of the delicate features |
Pointe Oroau
S 17.28.857 W 149.48.678
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| The anchorage at Pte. Oroau |
After a short trip to Vaiare to spend yet another weekend with Caro, Williams and the kids, we came back to Cook’s Bay, but anchored on the outside, in front of the Moorea Beach Club, right next to the yellow PGEM buoy. All we had for 3 days was very nasty weather, ma’aramu blowing with gusts at 40 knots, rain, and all we could do was hunker down and read. Didn’t even snorkel the reef, too much rip.
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| Moorea Bay Club |
The ma’aramu is wearing us out, hauling and growling, and although this anchorage is much better than the one in Vairare (oops, next blog!) we get hammered by the gusts that come over the hills. But off we go. Since the Ma’aramu from the south east is generally followed by strong north-west winds, we must change anchorage. The timing is right for a trip to Tahaa! Off we go…
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| S/V HEMISPHERE – Apparently, the largest catamaran in the world, passing Cook’s Bay |
Till next time!
dominomarie
