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When Cruising Ends

WHEN CRUISING ENDS

Vuda Point Marina, Fiji
July 25, 2016
It is so strange to write this… “cruising ends;  the end of cruising days;  THE END…”  The finality is harsh.  The words glare back, a cold stare that cannot be averted.  The End.  
And you, dear friends, dear readers for the past nine years, are clamoring: “Say it is not so!…”  “Give it another go…” “How are we going to cruise vicariously?” and “WHY?”

Traditional canoe in Vulaga

 When we started cruising 7 years ago, we asked ourselves “When?  When will we quit?”  Our kids were definitely asking that question, wondering when mom and pops would come home to be “fafa and nini” again.  Our answer was standard: “We’ll quit when something breaks: the boat, the bank, or our bodies.”  Never did we imagine that it would be our spirits that would break;  never did we imagine that we would have enough of stunning anchorages and coconut milk.  But here we are, at the end of the road.

Vulaga’s unique mushroom islands: so much to snorkel!
It happened in Vulaga.  In the most idyllic anchorage in all of Fiji, surrounded by talcum-powder-white beaches, the boat at rest in the lapis-blue lagoon dotted with sparkling green mushroom islands, JP and I stared at each other and asked ourselves, “What Next?”
JP & Sikelli celebrate a double-trevally catch
The day had been perfect.  We had snorkeled all morning with our host Sikelli, the boys had speared some beautiful Trevallys and I even speared a rockfish.  They had collected a bag of those delicious Vulaga clams and I had found a splendid black Cowrie for my shell collection.  I had just cooked a lobster caught earlier, made a tasty aioli, had piping-hot French bread cooling on the rack, JP had chilled a nice bottle of New Zealand Viognier.  By all standards, this was Paradise.  Yet, we stared at each other and asked ourselves, “What Next?”
More of those mushroom islands: lobster and trevally!
We had talked of spending the next cyclone season in The Marshalls.  But there was no place to leave the boat to visit the grandchildren.  We had considered New Caledonia, but we would have to get out at cyclone season.  We flirted with the idea of Australia, but the reports we had gotten were not encouraging.  Indonesia? Too dangerous.  Back to New Zealand?  Been there, done that.  It soon downed on us that we were finding excuses.  Bottom line, we could not find a common destination and the thrill of cruising was gone. 
Always good to catch a lobster… though these were in NZ!
It hit me like the proverbial “Ton of bricks.”  When JP verbalized the sinking feeling and proposed that we should sell the boat and live new adventures, I knew deep-down that he was right.  Our cruising days were over.
DOMINO is now for sale with a broker whose name I will announce in the next blog.
While we wait for the happy buyer, we scrub, clean, paint, maintain and perk-up our girl like a bride before a wedding.  It’s going to be hard to lead her to the altar.  But she was built to cruise, not to stay at anchor.
The end of cruising… and a new day will rise
What awaits our lovely DOMINO?  What awaits us?  Time will tell, but I have no doubt it will be an adventure for all of us, including the family (who, incidentally, seems happy that —at long last— we will behave as responsible adults instead of some hippie cruisers.)

What next?  Till next blog…

dominomarie   

DOMINO is for Sale

DOMINO – 20-meter Malcolm Tennant / Anthony Stanton Design (Launched 2009)

July 11, 2016 – Musket Cove Marina (Fiji)

DOMINO POWERCAT FOR SALE
Who will take DOMINO through her next stage?  
She is loaded, fueled and ready to go, 
eager to strut her stuff for whom will love her.
Make your dreams come true  (Domino in the Tuamotus)

Yes, you read right.  After 6 years, 36,000 Nautical Miles, and 36 countries, we are calling it quits.  We built DOMINO, we tested her, we proved that she is one tough world-cruising powercat with an elegance that has heads turning everywhere we go.  She is a real “wolf in sheep’s clothing.”  
DOMINO is a true “Passagemaker,” can cross any ocean safely, and is easily handled by a couple.
Designed by Malcolm Tennant and Anthony Stanton, she is built tough (commercial standards) with Gurit Corecell Foamcore and epoxy glass.  Her fine bow entries and CS hull shape ensure fuel efficiency, seaworthiness and no slamming.
Headroom, wrap-around windows, spacious galley… enjoy!

There are fancier ships; there are cheaper yachts; many of them are built for show, all veneer and little substance.  But DOMINO is all muscle and brain, a smart cruiser with powerful build, with redundancies to ensure maximum safety at sea.

The Helm, centrally located, inspired by airplane cockpits: the essential at the captain’s fingertip.

Spacious, airy, 360 wrap-around windows…   
      “Sleeps 2, Eats 6, Parties 30″…  
                   I could wax on and on…
                                     but you’ve followed our blog for 9 years now as we have shared our adventures with you: the stunning anchorages, the fishing, the people, the surprises, the haul outs and more. DOMINO is an open book, and (I’m told) a “Legend!”
We have not selected a broker yet.  
So, for the time being, DOMINO is for sale “by owner,” 
asking $1.300.000 (USD) 
Comparisons:  
–   Sistership #1 (2009)  NZD $2.200.000  = USD 1.600.000 (without engines) – NZ built

–   Current bid to build DOMINO  NZD $3.000.000 = USD 2.187.000    – NZ built

–   Sistership HERO (2010) – USD 1.500.000 (US built)
–  “O’Neil” Tennant “Awesome” series (1995) – USD 975,000 – NZ Built
The aft deck: set up for 2 to 4: 2 tables

The aft deck: set up for 12+, with table extension





























If you have an itch to cruise NOW, just pack a swimsuit and take her away: 

DOMINO is ready to make your dreams come true.

(See slideshow below)



SPECIFICATIONS
Name DOMINO Year/ Make / Model 2009 – 
Malcolm Tennant
Domino 20 Long Distance Cruiser
Length 20m (65.6’) Beam 7m (23’)
Draft 1.2m (4’) Displacement 24T
Fuel Capacity 11,170L  (2,955 Gal)
4 main tanks, 2 day tanks
Water Capacity 1,920L (422 gal)
2 tanks
Air Height 8.5m (28’) Head Room 2.30m (7.5’)
Designer Malcolm Tennant
Anthony Stanton
Builder M.T.D. Yachts 
(Paraguay)
HIN Number 12222806 Registration USCG
Last Haulout January 2016 (New Zealand) Number of Helms 2
Hull Material Foam Core / Epoxy
Built to commercial standard
Deck Material Foam Core / Epoxy
Range:
Average for 6 yrs, all conditions:
@10Kts: 6,000 NM
Average Burn: 2l/mile 
                    or 2MPG 
                    or 5GPH
General Notes 36,000 Nautical Miles
3,600 Engine Hours
Impeccably maintained
Ready to world-cruise

ENGINES  (x 2)
Engine Make: John Deere Engine Year: 2008
Engine Model: 6081 AFM – M2 rating Engine HP: 300 x 2
Engine Hours: 3,600
Max Speed: 22 Kts Cruising Speed: 10 Kts
Fuel Type:  Diesel Propellers: 34 x 42 x 4 blades (x2)
Engine Control: Glendinning Electronic engine control with  
  • Helm station
  • Flybridge station
  • 3 remote stations    (Bow, stern, FB)
 Steering System: Hydrive Pack 2 TM-9 with HD-250 cylinders
Engine Transmission: – ZF 280-1
– Trolling valve
– Aquadrive anti-vibration
– SureSeal (dry Seal)
Engine Notes: Maintained per schedule
Fuel Transfer and Polishing System: – 4 main tanks, 2 day tanks fed with Dayton pump, FS1218 Cummings Filter
– Engine fed with triple-stage filtration system before engine mount filter
Oil Change System: Reverso pump in each engine room


The transom and boarding platforms make easy work of loading material.
Vented transom locker for gasoline storage; Gangplank storage; manual hoists and winch.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Layout:  One-level floor plan –        Sleeps 4 – 8   –  LED lighting throughout 
Main Cabin: Walk-around queen bed Port Hull: 1 single berth
1 double berth
Saloon: 37 x 50” table  –    6-p seats  –  2-p Helm bench –   Watch / captain berth
Heater: Dickinson Cabin Diesel heater Starboard Hull: Workshop and spare parts lockers
Aft Deck:
  • Large sink
  • Live Bait tank
  • Seating/dining 12-p
  • Dual FG tank propane
  • BBQ Magma Avalon/smoker
  • Fresh water quick connect
Ventilation: Extensive cabin ventilation (natural forced ventilation):
– 5 vents w/ double latches w/ baffles
  • 2 Extraction fans
  • 8 Cafrano fans (+ spares)
Transom Platform:
  • Vented gasoline storage lockers (hold 8 x 20l tanks)
  • Stored gangplank
Entertainment: Projector HD Radio: AM/FM tuner with USB
Wired speakers cabin/aft
Bluetooth Bose speaker
NOTE: Extensive stock of spare parts, tools/power tools and hardware for maintenance and heavy repairs.   List available upon request.



Plenty of opportunities to cook healthy meals!


GALLEY

Galley Location: Main deck Stove/Oven: Dickinson Mediterranean
3-burner gas stove/oven
Sink: Scandvick double 
Manual fresh water pump
Refrigeration: Top-load Isotherm box
salt/fresh-water cooled
Freezer: Top-load Isotherm box
Salt/fresh-water cooled
Microwave: No
Toaster Oven: Black & Decker 110V Gas Alarm: Trident solenoid
Dishwasher: No Other:
  • Breville BreadMaker
  • Rice cooker, deep fryer
  • SodaStream Soda maker
Coffee Maker: Nespresso
Aeruccino 
  • Foodsaver Vaccum 
  • Cordless vacuum cleaner
  • Blender
  • Mini food processor
  • Electric kettles (x2)
  • Yogurt maker

BATHROOM
Heads: 1 Type: Domestic Fresh Water Vacuuflush
Showers: 1 Holding Tanks: 2 (Black & Grey water)
Gravity drained
Pump-out station
Water heater: 24 liters  Isotemp 
110V / Heat Exchanger
Water Collection:
(in addition to HRO)
Rain water collection
GLAZING
Windows:
Diamond Seaglaze tempered Windshield Wipers: Imtra Exalto (x3) 56cm blades w/ fresh water wash down
Helm: 7 x 12mm 
Sides: 13 x 10 mm UV
Aft: Diamond Seaglaze 9mm
Doors: Diamond Seaglaze 9mm

ELECTRONICS  – Extensive FURUNO suite
Displays (Furuno): Helm: TZT14, MFD 12
Flybridge: MFD 12
Loaded with charts & WP
Autopilot (Simrad): AC12 (+ backup)
2 x AP28 control units
RC 42 Rate Compass
Depth Sounder/Fish Finder (Port hull): Furuno DFF3, R199 2KW transducer –
 Depth range 800 m
Depth Sounder (Starboard hull): Airmar DT 820
Radar (Furuno): 6’ array antenna DRS12A w/ DRS12A power supply Satellite GPS : Furuno SC 50
Multi-function Displays: Helm : Furuno RD33
Flybridge: Furuno RD30
Weather Station: Airmar PB 150
GPS:  3 Stereo: Wired cabin/aft deck
& Bose Bluetooth
VHF Comm: Icom IC-M604 (x2)
w/ 2 dedicated antennas
Handheld IC-M88 (x2)
HF Comm: Icom IC-718
whip antenna
Sat Phone: Iridium 955 + Acer computer (X-Gate)
Optimizer (for i-Pad)
Navigation: PC computer loaded with SAS Planet & Open CPN, Tacks and files.
AIS Transponder: Furuno FA50
w/ dedicated antenna

BATTERIES & ELECTRICAL  (AC 110V)
Battery House: 6 x Odyssey PC1800
640 amp hrs @ 24v
Battery Engine: Odyssey PC1700 (x2)
875 CCA
Battery Genset: Odyssey PC1200 x2 Battery Engine Note: Combining starting solenoid
Generator: Northern Lights 12KW
Alternator House
(1 per engine)
Balmar 140amp @ 24V
Inverter/Charger: Magnum MS4024
400 watts @ 110V
Alternator Starter battery:
(1/engine)
John Deere 12V 
Chargers: Victron Centaur (x2)
24V/100W
Shore power input 110 & 220
Watermaker: Horizon Seafari 1400-2
60gal (240l)/ hour
w/ commercial pre-filter
Solar Panels: (4x) 200W Suntech
Outback FlexMax 60 charger-controller
Additional: Galvanic Isolator
Shore Power: yes – 120V & 240V

Air Conditioning: 
(never used – natural forced ventilation enough)
2x Seabreeze
Laundry Spinner: Aft-deck, easily replaced with washing machine Engine Room ventilation: Extraction Fans Jabsco

FIRE SUPPRESSION & ALARM SYSTEM
Automatic: Fireboy Automatic system:
1 in each engine room
1 in genset locker
1 in house battery locker
Manual: 2 in port hull
1 in starboard hull
1 in cabin
Fire blanket in galley

Massive anchors, low bridle attachment points, massive cleats inside and outside (Panama Canal regulation compliant)

GROUND TACKLE

Anchor #1: 75Kg Ancora Latina/Raya 90m 1/2’ chain grade 43 150m of 1 1/4” rode
Anchor #2: 44Kg Ancora Latina/Raya 120m 3/8” chain grade 43 75m of 1” rode
Anchor #3: Fortress 37 10m 3/8” chain 100m of 5/8” rode
Anchor #4: Fortress 125 20m 10mm chain 60m of 1” rode
Anchor #5: Guardian G37 10m 5/16” chain 50m of 9/16” rode
Windlass (x2) Maxwell VWC 4000 with helm control and auto-anchor chain counter
Winches (X2) Maxwell VWC 1500 (1 on each docking aft platform)
Stern line: 200m Quickline “Flatline”  –  Extensive amount of line/rode
Chafing gear

SECURITY, MONITORING, AND ALARM SYSTEM
Paradox Marine Magellan with remote control, flybridge siren, flashing alarm light
Surveillance camera aft deck   –  Monitoring camera in each engine room
Search light: Jabsco  –       Deck lights x2    –        Bow lights x2
Horn       –       Hailer
Black, grey, fresh water and fuel tanks level monitoring systems

SAFETY EQUIPMENT
Liferaft: Zodiac Solas 6-p  –   Serviced January 2016  – EPIRB-fitted
Sea Anchor: Fiorentino Para-Anchor 21’ Jacklines: yes
Life Jackets: 7 (all sizes), 4 auto inflate Harnesses: 2
EPRIB:  Yes, new January 2016 MOB retrieval: LifeSling; ThrowRope
Bilge pumps: 13 electric, with alarms MOB light: Yes
Swim Ladder: Yes, deployable by swimmer
3 steps under water
Binoculars: Fujinon w/ stabilizer
Handheld Torch: Yes Manual emergency Tiller: Yes

LIGHTNING PROTECTION SYSTEM
Designer: Ewen Thomson (marinelightning.com)
Aerials: 5 aerials
Spark Electrodes: 10 “sidearc” dispersion electodes
Faraday Cage: for electronics cabinet
Arrestors & diodes: On every antenna and electrical/electronic

ACCESSORIES   
Do-mini, the tender,
strapped on the flybridge

Tender: Custom FG / sandwich 3.3 meter Tender outboards: Tohatsu 18 HP (2 stroke)
Mercury 4 HP (4 stroke)
Davit: x2 (transom & FB) Hoist Crane: 2000 lb (on flybridge)
Deck Wash: Bow & aft Deck shower: Aft
Cockpit Cushion: yes Bimini: yes, on flybridge
Mooring lines & Fenders: Extensive amount Fishing Gear: Extensive: poles, lures, spear guns and spears, many rod holders
Diving gear: AirLine Hookah, with 2x20m hose, Honda generator & float
Water Toys: 2 sea kayaks
1 kneeboard
Other:

– fly screens for all hatches– Mosquito nets/netting– wine storage (>100 bottles)– Sewing machine– Complete dinnerware

Library:

Cruising manuals
Owners Manuals
Technical books  Maintenance logs


SUSUI WOMEN GARDEN CLUB

SUSUI WOMEN GARDEN CLUB
Sea Mercy Volunteer and Susui Sponsor Gretchen (S/V Peregrine) and the Susui Women Garden Club
Loma Loma, Vanua Balavu (Fiji)
June 24, 2016
Weeding through the Chinese cabbage (Photo Tessa Irvin)

One island at a time, one village at a time, one garden at a time, we’ve distributed seeds to 12 gardens already, and Susui Island was our 13th distribution.  Like in the other villages, our little group of volunteers was overwhelmed by the kindness and ardor of these hard-working women.

While we wait for the women to gather for pesticide instruction, the kids draw caterpillars and bugs and fish and pigs….
Take Bale, for example, the leading woman of the village.  When we called on her at 8 AM to start the gardening program, she had spent all night out fishing, caught 70 small fish that she was frying for our dinner, and had not gone to sleep yet.  Kindly, she took us to the community garden, not complaining that she was tired, not asking us to come back after her nap!
Bale’s daughter lunch: dry ramen noodles tucked into her shirt
The Susui Women Garden Club, as they call themselves, is a small, enthusiastic group of young women, full of energy.  Before our 1st visit, they had already built a fence to keep the pigs out of the garden and had planted a few beds: tomatoes and green beans.  But the main problems was poor weeding and white flies.  It’s not enough to turn the soil over, you need to remove all weed and roots.
Bale learns how to seed carrots with Sea Mercy volunteers JP, Willie and Gretchen
We made quick work of seed distribution and planting instructions, including pesticide information and spraying.  When we returned the following day, the women had gotten up at 4 AM, awoken by the village drum, as they do every day, had gone to church promptly, had breakfast, sent the kids to school, and had weeded the beds and sprayed the chili-garlic brew on the beans… all before we cruisers were even awake!  JP and Gretchen seeded the 1st bed of carrots: once more, the women were so excited about those carrots, which they had never grown before!
Let’s get this weeding party going…. 
By now we have this gardening program running pretty smoothly.  Gallons of chili-garlic and white oil sprays, 88 Ramakrishna seed packs distributed, DOMINO’s contribution is now at its end, since we are leaving tomorrow for Vulaga, Onega and Vatoa, all Southern Laus islands.  Tomorrow, it will be some other Sea Mercy volunteer who will take this program to Cikobia, another isolated island inside the Vanua Balavu lagoon.
Susui’s kids (Photo Tessa Irvin)
This has been an amazing time and we wish all the women of Vanua Balavu a rapid recovery and a plentiful harvest.
Domino delivers water in Susui (photo Tessa Irvin)
Till next time…

dominomarie

SEA MERCY – AVEA ISLAND GARDEN

SEA MERCY – AVEA ISLAND GARDEN
The younger generation at work
Loma Loma, Vanua Balavu (Fiji)
June 24, 2016

(Photos and Videos by Tessa Irvin, S/Y REWA, Sea Mercy Volunteer)
Perhaps it is because they only have ONE day a week to work in their community garden for ONE hour only, perhaps it is just their nature, but the women of Avea Island pour their hearts, energies, and pure joy into their garden.  

 Avea is a very small, low island north east of Vanua Balavu, and Winston hit it hard.  The school and community center are gone, a good chunk of the beach has been washed away, and the soil in the village is salty and sandy, not very fit for gardening. 

Deep in the valley… irrigated plots

But away from the village, there is a fertile land at the bottom of the hills, where fresh water flows abundantly and the alluvial soil is very rich.  The problem is getting there!  It’s either a 30-minute walk, wading along the shore at low tide (unreacheable at high tide) or a very wet long-boat ride, racing the tide.

Transplanting Chinese cabbage: too small… JP instructed in bigger tanspland (“Petite salade, gros chou!”)
While JP and DOMINO were delivering water into the village’s cistern, the Sea Mercy volunteer women hopped into the long boat and were in for a surprising ride!  As if to squelch their discomfort, the women were singing their hearts out, a pot and machete their marching drum!
Once our driver Tomasi dropped us all on the beach, thoroughly soaked, we single-filed through the struggling coconut grove, through the beetle-infested sweet potato beds, only to arrive at the Garden of Eden.  

Rich, thick, wet soil
WOW!  A large field of deep-dark soil, divided into irrigated rectangular family plots, lay before us.  
Sea Mercy Volunteer Willie (S/V Dream Catcher) gives it a go!
Nana Sarah, the women’s leader, explained.  “These are family plots. Some families exploit their gardens, but not all.  We have not started a community garden yet, but that’s what we are here for today.  Let’s get started!”  In no time, the women had tilled beds and were planting seeds, helped by our volunteers.
Our ride back, downwind, prompted the women to more singing and dancing, making circles around DOMINO to try to get JP’s attention!
Nana Sarah brings home Chinese cabbage and coconut
JP and I returned the next day with a small party of women.  It’s a long walk at low tide, under the glaring sun, bare foot on the cutting reef, but they walk on, carrying shovels and forks, while JP and I brought our pesticide sprays (and forgot our camera.)  It took only an hour to inspect the sweet potatoes and spray for white flies and potato beetle, to walk through the beans and taro plants to remove the caterpillars, to teach the women how to prevent bug infestation and seed carrots, start a composting pile.  Exhausted, Nana Sarah accepted to wear my hat (now HER hat) and returned to the village with a smile.
Teaching the next generation
Avea now has a community garden, of which we are glad.  But in Avea, I think it was us, the volunteers, who were the winners, having gained so much joy and happiness from this fun-loving and hard working women!
Until next village…

dominomarie

SEA MERCY – SEEDS OF HOPE in BOITACI

SEA MERCY – SEEDS OF HOPE in BOITACI
Long Beans sprouting in that 1st bed

Loma Loma, Vanua Balavu (Fiji)

June 24, 2016
All over Vanua Balavu, the Sea Mercy gardening program, in partnership with the Ramakrishna Mission Fiji and the Australian Aid, has distributed seeds to community gardens.  One hundred packs, thousands of seeds: French beans, long beans, butter beans, cow peas, radish, carrots and Chinese cabbage.  In the villages of Delaconi, Malaka, Mua Mua, Mavana, Boitaci, Mua Levu, Avea, Susui and (tomorrow) Cikobia, Sea Mercy is sowing seeds of hope.

Sea Mercy Volunteers Gretchen and Anita present Vuli with the 1st pack of seeds and instructions 

 BOITACI – We’ve reported after our fist visit that the garden was a mess, such a challenge that we even contemplated to change the site.  But the Sea Mercy Chain Saw team went into that project like a tornado… Fletcher (S/V Interlude,) Marc (S/V Amelie IV) and Norm (S/V Dream Catcher) let their chain saws loose and within a day had cleared the site of the biggest logs and fenced the garden against the pigs.

Sea Mercy Volunteer Norm (S/V Dream Catcher) heads the chain saw team

On our second visit, the women had already prepared some beds and were anxious for our seeds.

Boitaci women, ready for work

On our third visit, all the seeds had been planted and we started a composting pile.  Still the garden’s topography was a disaster.  Water had been water logging the bottom of the garden, stumps had been burned and left in place, piles of garbage had been burned, nothing looked right.

Sea Mercy Volunteer Anita Damiani checks the spigot: let’s order 100 yards of garden hose and a clamp!

We returned for a fourth visit with three ARC volunteers, three young men happy to help.  Within seconds of the Loma Loma Hospital Pick-up truck dropping us off, all the women were in the garden, giving our boys working orders. 

“Facebook!  Facebook!”  The young women ordered our boys around and wouldn’t let them leave!

“Take this clump of banana trees, divide it, and replant each tree along the fence.”

Replanting the banana trees


“Clear these burned stumps.”

Clearing the stumps

“Dig a drainage ditch.”

This sloping garden needs drainage

“Level off this pile of soil.”

Clearing charred stumps and debris

 Meanwhile, JP was teaching how to seed carrots, a first for all the women.

Heavy soil for carrots, added ashes to lighten it up…

On the edge of the garden, I joined Vuli in sifting though the ashes of the rubbish fire.  With her bare hands, she was removing broken glass, spiky roofing straps, melted metal meshing,  a charred bicycle chain, blackened tin.  We soon used sticks, but that wasn’t doing the job very fast.  So I grabbed my folding camp shovel/pick combo out to my backpack.  “I dig, you pick!”  Within minutes we had sifted through the entire pile of ashes, now clear of solid debris.  Vuli looked at my hand tool, the only one in the village.  Of course, I left it with her, this little camping shovel her most prized gardening possession.

No watering can, no garden hose: Gretchen delivers collapsible water jugs

When we finally etched a plan for amending the soil, the women were carrying handful of ashes in their bare hands, fault of any other type of bucket or shovel or hand tool, except for the machetes we distributed.

First sign of Chinese cabbage

On our fifth and last visit, Vuli proudly showed us the progress: beans 1/2’ tall, sprouting Chinese cabbage, and a new bed of carrots.

Carrot bed, sheltered from the harsh sun and pecking birds

We didn’t have a chance to say goodbye to the women.  On our last visit, they were sitting with the grief counselor.  Winston took 4 lives in this tightly close community, scarring children and adults.  But Vuli sat with us for a last chat: our pesticide presentation.  We left her, our samples of garlic spray and white oil, getting away in our Police ride, cheered along by a throng of chirpy and unforgettable Boitaci kids.

Vuli is thrilled with her pesticides and the kids ran along the car, singing their goodbyes (photo Tessa Irvin)

Until the next village…

Boitaci Kids (Photo Tessa Irvin)
dominomarie

Sea Mercy – One Garden at a Time

SEA MERCY – ONE GARDEN AT A TIME
In Malaka, preparing a bed to seed the first carrots
Loma Loma, Vanua Balavu
June 23, 2016
“First Winston destructed all our crops.  Us, women, replanted our small gardens but six weeks later cyclone Xena hit us again, not as hard as Winston, but still destructed our new crops.  We planted again, but then the caterpillar came.  We’d never seen caterpillars before.  They ate all our crops.  We replanted again, and now the caterpillars eat our plants and the doves eat our seeds.  We are desperate!”
Found in the sweet potatoes
In Mua Levu, Nani’s plight reflects the mood of Vanua Balavu’s women.  They are alone, most of the men have left for Suva to pick up the financial aid from the Fijian government and order building materials for their homes.  Meanwhile, the women are left in the villages, fending for themselves and the children.  One of their main concerns, aside from shelter and water, is food.  Of course, they have received more rice and canned goods than they imagined, but that is not their usual diet.  They need fresh vegetables and there are none to be found.
Some have started small gardens by their homes; some villages have started community gardens, spurred by Australian Aid that had distributed seeds to the villages just before Winston.  But all seeds have been planted, and there is no more.

In Boitaci, Sea Mercy volunteer Anita Damiani presents a sample pack of seeds.
Enter Sea Mercy and the Rama Krishna Fiji Seeds Program.  With 100 packs of seeds to distribute throughout Vanua Balavu, we started a community gardening program, complete with seed distribution, composting instructions, proper bed preparation and seeding instruction, and a natural pesticide program.  With the OK from the public health officer and the agricultural officer, we went to work in 8 villages.
Seed packs included 150 seeds of each: long beans, French beans, butter beans, cow peas, as well as radish, Chinese cabbage and carrots.  The women had never seen carrot seeds and were delighted!
DELACONI – Voted the best community garden in Vanua Balavu, Delaconi served as our model garden.  The soil had been well worked and the women’s gardening club was harvesting cabbage and even selling us some!  But it was also time to distribute seeds, so welcome!
The caterpillars had been at work on the cabbage, though, and the potato beetles on the sweet potatoes.  It was time for our natural brews of white oil and chili-garlic spray. 

Megan (S/V AMELIE IV) presents white oil and chili-garlic spray to the women,
attentive in spite of their grief
     But our timing was awful: when we showed up for our scheduled pesticide presentation, the entire village was in mourning, having lost our friend Biu’s husband the day before.  I was ready to turn around, but it was Biu herself, sobbing in my arms, who insisted that we should go on with the presentation.  Dressed in black, all the women pulled chairs around the banquet table (for once, there was a table) and while I was choking on words, it was 15-year old Megan (S/V Amelie IV) who pulled herself together and talked about caterpillars and natural pesticide.  
In Malaka, Unisi’s daughter harvests cucumbers to sell to the fleet.
Thai Basil grows wild, here, and women have no idea it can be used for cooking;
They only use it for medicinal purposes (sore throat)
MALAKA – Unisi, the chief’s wife, and her daughter are very good gardeners.  They walked us through beds of cucumbers in full production, and were proud of the upcoming long beans, green beans and tomatoes.  They too, were out of seeds and our distribution put big smiles on their faces.
Like we had in Delaconi, we started a compost pile, hoping that the organic wastes will, in time, lighten up the heavy soil.

On board DOMINO, JP and Tessa (S/V REWA) prepare a batch of chili-garlic spray,
Recipes sent by our son James via Iridium communication… pretty cool!
   There too, the caterpillars were at work and we gave our presentation: by the 2nd presentation of the morning, our team was smelling pretty ripe of garlic and chili, but nobody minded.
On our last visit, we bought more cucumbers and green beans, happy to have given the women a new source of income.

Mua Mua: green beans coming up
MUA MUA – Lo and her sister have a grip on the garden, a green thumb, and had no idea of how to fight caterpillars.  In no time, our little group was walking through the rows and picking and squashing the big, fat, green caterpillars.

Pesticide presentation is a hit!


Our seed distribution and pesticide presentation under the cooking shed was a big hit —standing room only — mixing the aromas of wood fire and garlic, the smoke of a smoldering fire and the vapors of crushed hot chilis… lovely on a rainy morning!










Our fleet was only delighted to buy fresh watermelon while the women smiled ear-to-ear, pocketing the $ bills for their produce and new seeds for their garden.
Smell of garlic in the morning!
The three villages on the west coast were easy-peasy.  When we visited the east coast, however, the picture changed to dismal.

Gardening day in Boitaci: fenced against the pigs… so much to do!
BOITACI – The garden was a mess!  Pigs were roaming through the village and had destroyed the garden.  It looked like a bomb had exploded, craters and tree stumps dotting the dry and pocked landscape.  There was nothing we could do until the Sea Mercy chain saw team came to chop down trees and build a fence to hold the pigs out.
All we could do was to deal out water jugs for watering, ordering a hose to reach the spigot 70 yards away, and distribute some seeds to get started.  

Boitaci’s kids, always following us imitating us
There was so much to be done in this garden, we had no idea if it would ever be fruitful… but more on this later.
Mavana’s overgrown school garden
MAVANA – What once had been a beautiful school garden was now —3 months after Winston— abandoned and overgrown.  But the schoolmaster and Va, the woman with the Green Thumb, were determined to get it started again. 


 JP traipsed through the weed, picked up a handful of soil and beamed: “Beautiful!  This is going to be great for carrots!”  Yet, clearing all this brush with nothing but machetes looked over our capabilities.  



We distributed packs of seeds, wondering when we could put them in that ground.

    
 Five days later, we returned with a work party (3 young boys from the World ARC Rally) only to find out that the women had cleared the entire garden, 1/3 of it already tilled and planted.  They had seeded all their seeds.
JP & the ARC volunteers are joined by the village’s men to dig new beds.
   Needless to say, JP and the 3 boys went to work, tilling 3 more beds.  But a funny thing had happened: two men were now working in the women’s garden, removing stumps, tilling, doing the hard labor.  The women’s courage was motivating the men to help out.   It was with pleasure that we left more seeds for the new beds.
Va’s beautiful garden at the back of her house
Va keeps her own garden behind her house, in more than unconventional containers.  She and her sister sat down on the grass with us and once more we gave our pesticide control presentation.  But since Va has such a green thumb, we also gave her extra garlic heads and dried chiles to grow new plants… they can make their own pesticide!
Mua Levu’s struggling sweet potatoes
MUA LEVU – This is a totally different village, based on a strong clan system.  There are 4 clans in the village, which means 4 community gardens.  In addition, Betty (the chief’s wife) has her own garden behind her house… so, make that 5 gardens to watch!

This village was caterpillar heaven!  All sizes, colors and varieties of caterpillars, worms and beetles were feasting and had destroyed a good part of the crops.

We started with the easy part: walking through the rows of taro and sweet potatoes, removing the bugs and squashing them underfoot.  It took a bit of persuading, but the result was immediate: no more bugs!



Each clan leader took a volunteer to their garden, visits followed by a full “debriefing” conducted by Betty under the chief’s awning.  Wow!  So much structure!  






Losanna’s garden was being eaten by doves?  It was a job for young Megan who returned 2 days later to build a scarecrow.


















Once more, we gave our pesticide presentation and distributed the last of our seeds for this village, pretty confident that they would soon harvest sweet potatoes and green beans.
Betty’s crop ravaged by caterpillars and beetles
    This was an intense program, giving our pesticide presentation to 6 villages in 1 morning, driven by the police pick-up truck, slip-sliding in the mud, sloshing garlic-chili sauce all over, squashing bugs,   but unmistakably supporting those beautiful Fijian women in their fight to survive Winston!
In the back of the truck, JP going to work!
More gardening in the next blog;  Until then…

dominomarie

Sea Mercy – One Water Tank at a Time

SEA MERCY – ONE WATER TANK AT A TIME
Dirk (S/V PEREGRINE) inspects the 300 yards of garden hose suspended over the reef – No snag, please!
Susui Island – June 18, 2016
One of the main hardships after a hurricane wipes out a village is the lack of fresh water.  It may be raining but there is no water to be had.  In most of the villages of Vanua Balavu, the main source of water is rain catchment from the roofs into large water tanks.  No roof, no gutter, no water tank = no water.  It will be months before the community centers, churches and homes have new roofs and gutters.  Indeed, our Sea Mercy Recovery team has asked for roofing and guttering for the villages in dire needs.  But what to do in the meantime?
Living in precarious conditions, to say the least

Our team has identified 3 villages in critical need, all on islands off of the main island of Vanua Balavu:  Avea, Susui, and Cikobia.

Stern anchor into the reef, as close as we dare, it took a team to set-up the delivery
Two weeks ago, the super yacht NOMADESS delivered 6,000 liters in Avea and Cikobia, and 8,000 liters in Susui.  But in spite of rationing the population to 1 liter/person/day, the villages are running out of water.  So, our little fleet rallied to see what we could do.
In Avea, no more water catchment… living in makeshift tin houses
AVEA – Located Northeast of Vanua Balavu, Avea is a small, low island, where 330 people fight to survive.  When we arrived, the cisterns were almost empty.
Portable water maker, solar panels, pumps… let’s get it to shore
One team of engineers worked on setting up the water maker stored on board DOMINO and soon they were pumping water out of the brackish water well and turning it into fresh water, slowly filling the main tank at the center of the village.
In Avea, let’s fill this cistern!
Meanwhile, DOMINO was moving into position, dropping anchor in front of the village and backing close to the reef, a stern anchor set inside the reef.  How do you deliver water?  Strong from the experience on board NOMADESS, the Sea Mercy water team quickly deployed 200 yards of garden hose, floated them above the reef, dropped the end into the village’s 2nd water cistern.
Hard-hit Avea
JP fired up the 12 KW Northern Light Genset, powered up the HORIZON Seafari HRO watermaker, and that was it!  Water making at the rate 250l/hour –  DOMINO pumped water for almost 14 hours (with a 2-hour break for shut-eyes) and delivered close to 3,500 liters of water, to the great joy of the locals who gave us an amazingly warm tea party and church ceremony, singing choir and all!
All the kids sang and danced for us!
SUSUI – No sooner had we disconnected the hoses from Avea at 0800 and let the HRO rest a bit, we were en route for SUSUI, 11 miles south, where S/V PEREGRINE’s Dirk and Gretchen had prepared our arrival. 



It’s just a short hop from Avea to Susui
Under Dirk’s brilliant guidance, JP dropped anchor in front of the village, backed up in a small hook in the reef, and Dirk dropped our stern anchor as close to the reef as possible.  But the bottom was rock-hard and I ended up diving the anchor, wedging it between dead coral heads, making sure that all the chain was flat on the bottom and that no line was caught into the rising coral heads.  Piece of cake at low tide on a flat-calm day!

JP and I taking care to float the hose above the reef.
Within minutes, our volunteers were stringing 300 yards of hose off our stern, once more floating them over the reef, and dropped the end into the cistern.  By 11:30 we were pumping again.
A happy Jacob inspects our Horizon HRO water maker
We pumped all day and most of the night, till the 3 PM the next day, some 23 hours of pumping and 5,600 liters of water.  Jacob, the village’s mayor, helped us all day and night, keeping a night watch and calling us, checking on the water flow.

Jacob loved the power of our Northern Light genset
On board, JP checked on the flow volume every 30 minutes, checking our tank’s level, adjusting the makeshift distribution valve for an even flow: no need to overflow or dry-out DOMINO’s tanks! 
HOW LONG can the HRO pump?  We have no idea!  This was the first time we ran the water maker for so long and it worked beautifully. 
Enough water?  Not quite!  The rest of the fleet had ran their own on-board water makers, delivering close to 1,000 liters in water jugs.
Once more, the villagers took care of us, with a nice kava ceremony and community dinner.  We were blown away!
The villagers in Susui prepared a feast!
Hopefully, this will hold the village till the roofing and guttering gets installed.  Sea Mercy is shipping the materials and we can’t wait to see the roofing go up at the community centers!

CIKOBIA – This kind of water delivery operation demands flat calm conditions, which we had for the 3 days in Avea and Susui.  But the wind kicked up and is not supposed to let up for the week to come.  Cikobia is a tricky delivery, needing high tide in the middle of the day and glassy waters.  Unfortunately, we were not able to deliver and the fleet is waiting for better conditions while the village is still rationed at 1 liter/day/person.  They really need roofing, guttering, and a way to tap into their collapsed water source.   To be followed.
If you want to help any of those 3 islands with 
water makers and stream head pumping, 
visit the 
and make a donation for 

VANUA BALAVU!
Thank you!
Until next time…
dominomarie

Sea Mercy Vanua Balavu – One step at a time

RECOVERY: ONE STEP AT A TIME
The school in Mua Levu (East Coast of Vanua Balavu) is just matchsticks
Malaka Bay, Vanua Balavu, 
June 5, 2016 (17*14.260S, 178*58.090W)
In Mua Levu, school is conducted under a UNICEF tent.
Kids travel by long boat and open transport from 4 villages, rain or shine, no raincoat, no shoes
When faced with such a massive disaster and a recovery process of such magnitude as Cyclone Winston, where do you start? How do you proceed?  
What is left of the school in Avea… and the beach beyond it has been washed away
SEA MERCY coordinates with major NGOs (Red Cross, UNICEF) as well as government agencies, and identifies gaps in the aid process.  Since the organization is small, it is nimble and able not only to respond quickly to small needs but also to initiate long-term, inexpensive programs that benefit long-lasting recovery and self-sufficiency.  That’s what we did this week with interventions in Loma Loma and Delaconi, Avea, Susui, and Cikobia.

Super Yacht NOMADESS came to the rescue
When we toured Loma Loma last week, Dr. Malo —the hospital physician— asked for the women’s ward windows panes to be repaired, for the children’s ward to be repainted and for some linens for the beds.  Within hours, our coordinator had relayed the need to NOMADESS, a super yacht coming our way.  That yacht was only with us for 2 days, but what a powerhouse! 

NOMADESS crew at work: repainting the hospital children’s ward
The crew repainted the wards, fixed the windows, brought linen… but they didn’t stop there.  They went on to the 3 islands in the lagoon in dire need of water.  The situation in Cikobia was so dire that the islanders were ready to light up their emergency signal: a fire seen by the next island, then relayed to the mainland!  Sea Mercy yachts Peregrine and Remedy relayed for immediate help!
Cikobia: filled 6,000 liters by jerry jug on long boats
In 2 days, NOMADESS brought relief while using daring, exhausting means:  6,000 liters in Cikobia, 6,000 liters in Susui and 8,000 liters in Avea.  TWO DAYS… and they were gone, having relieved the immediate water needs and worries of hundreds of islanders.
You can read the story at http://seamercy.org.
The crew of INTERLUDE IV babied the solar panels and water maker kit all the way from the mainland.
DOMINO will deliver them to Avea for water making
Right now, we are loading 2 water makers on DOMINO, complete with solar panels, pumps and hoses to deliver next week to Avea where one of our fleet yacht will monitor water making and refilling of the water tanks.  Then, on to the next island!
Fitting the fishermen with more wetsuits from Dive Tutukaka, New Zealand
Meanwhile, on the west coast of Vanua Balavu, DOMINO was preparing the next step: help the fishermen, improve the community gardens and start composting.  It takes a lot of talking, meetings with the chiefs and the officials, respect for local customs and hierarchy, but once the rapport is established the people are eager to let us in.  
Vanua Balavu’s agricultural officer gives JP the Thumbs Up on the Sea Mercy gardening program
With the full accord of the local agricultural officer and spurring from the public health nurse, we went to work.  Six of us met with the women’s club leaders and the school teachers.  
In Mua Mua, clearing space for the 1st compost pile
If JP thought he was pretty good with the machete when he started to clear the site for the compost pile, Mila showed him how to really use a machete!  A few stick, and there we are, the first compost pile on the island… and more to come, in each of the 12 villages!

First compost pile in Malaka
We loaded our backpacks with fresh bokchoi and the women were happy with their first vegetable sale.
The Sea Mercy Volunteers pile up in the hospital’s truck to visit the villages, travelling Fiji style
Given the success in DELACONI, we are more than happy to go on. 
 Monday: Malaka and Mua Mua, 
 Tuesday: Mua Levu, Boitaci, and Mavana
  Wednesday: Avea
Dr. Gretchen reviews priorities
It’s a busy schedule but the smile on the Fijian faces is all we need to keep us going.


“And how are we to get all this aid to shore?”
Clothes and food… a start but far from being enough
WANT TO HELP VANUA BALAVU?
SEA MERCY now has a specific donation page for each site where they deliver aid.
Pick Vanua Balavu!  
THANK YOU
Dinghies start shuttling bundles of clothes and food to shore
Sea Mercy Volunteer Anita Damiani walks through the wrecked school library in Mavana
Until next time…
Returning to our anchorage in Malaka Bay after a long day on the road
dominomarie

Vanua Balavu: One Village at a Time

WINSTON REFUGEES: ONE VILLAGE AT A TIME
DELACONI – flattened homes
Malaka Bay, Vanua Balavu, May 31, 2016 (17*14.260S, 178*58.090W) 
The 3 west coast villages of Vanua Balavu:  Delaconi, Malaka, and Mua Mu
You’ve seen it many times on TV, refugees in tents, precarious living conditions, but it doesn’t hit you until you see it for yourself.  Never had I imagined that a cyclone could deal such utter devastation and perhaps the annihilation of a traditional lifestyle.

DELACONI – 3 months ofter Winston… still no roof, still no gutter… a disaster
The three villages we are assigned are located on the west coast of Vanua Balavu: Delaconi, Malaka, and Mua Mua.

Mua Mua – devastated coconut and pine trees, 80% of the people under tents or precarious shelter
 Of the villages total 95 structures, 80 have been completely destroyed, and only 15 are still standing but damaged.  Tents and Shelter Boxes line the villages lanes, flanking the concrete slabs where the houses used to stand.  Women are cooking the last of the staples distributed by the government. All contemplate a lasting hardship.


In Delaconi, where the 3 school buildings have been flattened, the schoolmaster makes do under UNICEF tents.
The Kindergarten building is almost rebuilt (Fiji Governement)
Delaconi was the darling of cruising yachts, since its chief controls visits to the Bay of Islands, a favorite cruising ground.  The we visited last year, we couldn’t help commenting how wealthy the village was.  Indeed, the entire village had put together a traditional birthday celebration for Robbie (one of the cruisers), complete with roasted pig, flower necklaces and dances.  Wealth no more.  The school’s 3 building have been wiped out and the new schoolmaster copes with teaching all grades k-8 under UNICEF tents.  “We’re coping,” says he, grabbing our soccer and rugby balls.
Sea Mercy delivering aid in Malaka
Malaka, a favorite anchorage in good holding mud, is no better.  On the beach landing, the fishery’s ice maker and blast freezer were damaged, but the fisheries department has just shipped a new freezer: help is coming.  Along the main village path, again, tents line up under damaged solar panels.  There is no electricity in the village, aside from individual solar panels.  
Sonny, Malaka’s headman, welcomes our visit.
The pine forest is devastated, so are the coconut groves.
The cassava plantations have been 90% wiped out
Mua Mua is perhaps the poorest of the 3 villages, with little hope of quick recovery.  
The very hard-hit Mua Mua
As if the loss of their homes were not enough, villagers also have lost their way of income: copra.  All coconut plantations have been severely damaged and the villagers estimate it will be 5 to 10 years before they will harvest a decent crop.  Meanwhile, they need to clear the plantations of fallen trees and replant a new crop.  But they just don’t have enough coconuts left to replant and must import them from Rotuma.
Mua Mua is a disaster zone
Women, whose traditional occupation was the weaving of pandanus leaves into mats and trinkets for tourists, have lost their ways.  Pandanus trees have blown away and they estimate that it will take up to 5 years before an adequate crop.
Unisi, Malaka’s leading woman, tends the community garden and is desperate to fight the caterpillar infestation
Yet, in this dismal picture, life goes on and we admire the spirit of the Fijian people.  Women are leading the way with their community gardens.  The gardening kits donated by the Australian government have been put to good use in all three villages and the community gardens are trhiving.   In Delaconi, the women pride themselves in having been voted the best community garden in the entire island.  And they should be proud: lettuce, cabbage, cucumber, and all sorts of roots.  They are eager to start a composting program, boost their production and sell fresh organic produce to the yachts visiting the Bay of Islands.
Making do in Malaka
In Malaka, the fisheries representative is eager to support the fishermen, who provide food and income for the village.  The 7 professional fishermen, however, run on scant material and equipment: not enough fishing lines and hooks, masks, fins, snorkels.  Women help with night fishing and we can hear them babble while they fish out of their canoes, on our port and starboard.  
It’s the same disaster zone everywhere we go
In Mua Mua, the chief struggles to understand how to rebuild after such a devastation.  The young men are overwhelmed with the task of clearing fallen trees and replanting the coconut farms.  Yet, the nurses and dietitian come from Loma Loma to conduct their regular clinic… under a tent.
JP meets the health care team under their makeshift tent-consultation room
The needs are staggering.  The government is responsive: each family has been issued a credit card with funds to rebuild their homes.  This week, all heads of households have travelled to Suva to collect their credit cards and order their building materials: work on building houses will start soon.  But what about tools? Supplies? Household items? Clothes? Food?
In Malaka, the community garden: cucumber row
That’s where Sea Mercy comes in.  This week, 8 Sea Mercy yachts are working the “Sea Bridge” around Vanua Balavu, assessing the needs of each village and delivering what aid they can, from organizing water delivery to clearing trees and delivering food and tools.
In Delaconi, Biu guards our aid delivery on the beach
As for us, we are working with our 3 villages.
In Delaconi, our guide Biu shadows us and makes sure that our supplies get to the people in need: food, clothing, shoes, tools are snatched up in a snap.  On Sunday, after church (blown roof and windows), the pastor delivered our first case of canned goods.  To the question, who should get the first of the canned goods, his answer was quick: “Widows and orphans.”  And so it was that we met the many orphans and widows in the village.
The pastor lost everything, his home, his property, and lives under a tent.
Yet, when we brought the aid, he distributed first to the neediest: orphans and widows
In Malaka, the young headman and his wife (the village nurse) are keen on distributing our aid of equitably.  
The fishermen appreciate the wetsuits
This afternoon, the fisheries rep. is taking us to fit the 7 fishermen with wetsuits donated by Dive Tutukaka in New Zealand.
The chief fell in love with the Sea Mercy Luminaid solar lights.
In Mua Mua, our guide Lo is taking an active role in making sure the aid gets to the chief’s house.  In the afternoon, she calls all the women and distributes the aid.  But it is the chief, who had to think a bit about according us Sevu Sevu and asked many questions before allowing to work in the village, who was dazzled by the LuminAid solar lights that will give each home a bit of light in this village that does not have any generator and where most individual solar panels have been blown away.
Do-Mini is loaded to the gills
In the last 3 days, we have delivered 8 cases of canned foods, 110 lbs of rice, 10 kg of flour, 2 kg salt30 machetes with files, 3 bow saws, 3 boxes of nails, 50 solar lights, 3 tarpaulins and sails, 11 packs of fishing line, 7 boxes of fishing hooks, 4 bags of shoes, 6 bags of clothing, 2 bags of bedding,  25 bars of soap, 3 cases of water sanitation tablets, 7 wetsuits.
In Mua Mua, Lo is anxious to plant the seeds that Sea Mercy provided, thanks to the donation from the RamaKrishna, Fiji
We are barely scratching the top of the iceberg.  Village women are very eager to create sustainable community gardens, while the men will be busy to replant the coconut and rebuild the homes.  It is an overwhelming task. 
Tomatoes grow year-round
Want to help?  Gardening tools, gardening education, seeds, and of course for food, clothing, mattresses, bedding, sturdy plastic containers, home-building tools, linoleum floors… if you care to help, send your donation to seamercy.org – The Sea Mercy fleet of volunteer yachts will make sure it gets where it’s needed!  One beach at a time, one village at a time.

The Delaconi school: the only building left standing…
(Photo: Marie HF)
Marie Dufour, Yacht DOMINO Powercat

Sea Mercy in Loma Loma

Sea Mercy Vanua Balavu
The Sea Mercy Fleet in Loma Loma, Vanua Balavu
May 27, 2016
Loma Loma, Vanua Balavu, Northern Lau Group, Fiji
The Island of Vanua Balavu and its outlying islands: Avea, Susu, Muni and Cikobia
Providing help to remote islands of the South Pacific has been our long-range goal for the last 15 years.  And here we are, in Vanua Balavu, Fiji’s remote Lau Group, with 7 other yachts, all parts of Sea Mercy.  We are on a recovery and rebuild mission, assisting the local populations after Cyclone Winston slammed its Category 5 fury into Vanua Balavu on February 20th.
The shoreline in LomaLoma
OUR MISSION – Vanua Balavu was the hardest-hit of all the islands in the Lau Group.  Casualties were heavy: five people died in the village of LomaLoma, four in Boitaci, and one in Delaconi.  Dozens were injured.  Ten were medivac’d to Suva with severe injuries.  The devastation is obvious, even 3 months later.
Not much left of this home
The health officer who cleared our quarantine was still traumatized as she recounted a night of horror, she and her family trying to escape the surge that was overtaking her home, swimming to higher ground while avoiding flying debris, roofing, trees.   The psychological scars are obvious and deep.

Sea Mercy Yacht PEREGRINE at anchor in Loma Loma
Our fleet of 8 Sea Mercy yachts has a 2-step mission:  
1 – Assess the needs of remote islands
2 – Request supplies, deliver them, and help rebuild.
Jonathan Robinson, our coordinator, loads water purification tablets on the dinghies
Jonathan Robinson, a retired Royal Navy helicopter pilot, is our task master, fresh from his experience with Sea Mercy last year in Vanuatu, where he provided relief after cyclone Pam.  And what energy!  No sooner had we finished our clearance that Jonathan had gathered the aid that had been shipped by Sea Mercy: 4 pallets of supplies, canned food, 16,000 water purification tablets, dozens of machetes, tarps, chain saws, clothes and linen.  Quickly divided into 8 stacks, supplies were shuttled all afternoon to the various boats.  
DOMINO’s aft deck is the perfect place for our daily briefings, assessment reports, priority settings, and tasking
At briefing, Johnathan had us paired up and tasked out.
  • Peregrine and Remedy to assess Avea, Susui and Munia 
  • Perry and The Southern Cross to assess Tuvuca (difficult access, by catamaran only) 
  • Amelie IV  and Dream Catcher to assess Nayau (no access, stand out only)
  • Amelie IV and Domino to assess Panacea and Yacata (o access, stand out only)
while Jonathan on Chez Nous will remain in Loma Loma to take our reports (emailed by Iridium) and stage the coming of Super Yachts.
Drs. Gretchen and JP visit with Dr. Malo at the Loma Loma hospital
Still we had time to visit the hospital and meet with Dr. Malo.  This young doctor has been at his post for only 4 months and we can only imagine how horrendous his task of dealing with a Cat. 5 cyclone within weeks of starting his new job.  He is responsible for 3,000 souls in Vanua Balavu and surrounding islands.  He is assisted by 20 nurses (clinical and public health) and he runs the Loma Loma hospital, a 16-bed facility.  Kindly, he gave us a tour while forgetting his lunch hour, and this is what we found.
  • The children’s ward (4 beds) can use a new coat of paint, happy murals and toys.  The 2 young boys lying there were quite lonely.
  • The men’s ward (4 beds) is rather basic.
  • The women’s ward  (4 beds) also includes an emergency cubicle with basic gurney and crash cart.
  • The birthing center is not being used, its windows broken, its paint peeling.
  • The dentist chair is used for tooth extractions only, since all electric parts have been damaged during the storm and have been sent to Suva for repair.
  • The linen cabinet is virtually empty
The Women’s ward

NEWS FLASH –  As soon as we visited the hospital, we communicated our findings to NOMADESS, a yacht coming our way.  Within 24 hours, the crew had delivered supplies and linens to the hospital, repainted the children’s ward and replaced the windows in the women’s ward (and delivered 6,000 liters of water (each) to the islands of Susui, Avea and Cikobia
The NOMADESS crew repaints the Children’s ward
The women’s ward windows, all fixed up






































To the side of the hospital, the health center where mothers usually take their babies for checks-ups has been boarded-up, rocked off its foundations, condemned for the time being.
The Health Center, rocked off its foundation, no longer safe
Wherever we walked in the village, we saw condemned buildings but tents for temporary shelter, signs of re-building, and the ever-present “Bula” of the Fijians.
Concrete slabs and tents: a common site all over Vanua Balavu
Our job here is to communicate those needs to Sea Mercy, to get what we can delivered to the villages, one village at a time.
Want to help us?  Just log on to the Sea Mercy website and donate.  Your donation will go a long way, since all of us are volunteers.  $ for a pot of paint and paint brushes?  $ for toys?  $ for children’s shoes and women underwear? Yes, please!  Visit http://seamercy.org/
Blown-out roofs, no gutters = no water catchment = no water!
More on the next blog…
dominomarie