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Maryland, New Jersey and New York

We had a nice visit with Tom’s family in Ocean City,
Maryland.  His mother lives 15 minutes
away from the marina and we spent all but two nights sleeping off the boat at
her home.  All three of us luxuriated in
baths almost every night and really slept soundly in her beds. We played cards
or other games each night and it was like we had never left.  She had a small list of things to do mostly
in her kitchen area that was being updated. 
Most items were completed quickly and we were happy to help out.  We also did some other little items and some
cleaning but brother Jeff has been doing most of this work for the past six
years.

 
While we visited, a local mechanic sorted out problems with
a generator (new raw water and coolant pumps) and lugger transmission (reverse
plates missing and damaged seals from Africa repair).  The work was more expensive than we have
grown used to but the work seemed to be done right and higher prices, I fear,
are going to be the norm from here on.

As a bonus, Tom got to see his brother Mike working on the
kitchen and brother Jeff and sister-in-law Peggy and two of their 6 kids.  Emily really enjoyed playing with Brian who
had latched on to her and never tired of playing games. We enjoyed being
paraded around to my mother’s bingo and AARP clubs and we even got interviewed
by Ocean City Today for an article about the circumnavigation.
After two weeks, we headed out to sea and after two quick
stops in Atlantic City and Sandy Hook, we found ourselves anchored just off
Liberty Park in New Jersey just across from New York City.  We still cannot believe that there is a free,
protected anchorage near this city where most marinas charge about $200 per
night for dockage. The half-broken dingy dock that was here in 2008 is now gone
and we now have to dingy right under the Statue of Liberty torch and by Ellis
Island to leave the dingy at the expensive marina.  From here we can take a $7 ferry right to the
World Trade center in Manhattan.  

We stayed here for 5 nights exploring the city for two days.
On our first day, we saw the 911 memorial that was quite moving and the new
World Trade Center building (Freedom Tower) that was built while we were
traveling. 

 

We then took the subway
uptown to spend the day in the Museum of Natural History. We spent a full day
exploring the museum and barely scratched the surface.  The pterosaur exhibit and the exhibit on
poisons were particularly well done.  

 
One exhibit worked by standing on a special pad and flapping
your arms, you could control a live video of a flying and hunting
pterosaur.  Emily understood that all the
information was being transmitted though her feet to the computer.  The foot pads could detect arms flapping by
the fluctuating changes in foot pressure. 
Pressure on the toes would cause the bird to dive for fish and pressure
on the heels would make him soar higher. 
Left and right turns would be directed by the differences in pressure
caused by leaning…very well done.

Emily found it interesting that many of the poisons like the
tarantula, manchineel tree and
poison
dart frogs had been seen (and handled) first hand! We also saw the Mysteries of the Unseen World in
their IMAX theatre.

Day two kept us closer to the boat and we spent the day
inside the Liberty Science Center which was about a 10 minute walk from our
anchorage.  Although many of the exhibits
and interactive displays were geared toward kids younger than Emily, there was
still plenty to keep us amused all day. 
A high cool factor was given to the 3D simulator that required remote
operation of two robotic arms to do delicate tasks like moving and transferring
small objects.  Emily was much better at
this than Dad.
 

We also saw
two movies (Great White Shark and
Island of Lemurs: Madagascar) in the nation’s largest IMAX dome theater.  The domed screen is 88 feet in diameter and
seats 400 which is just a tad bigger than the 17” screen on Emily Grace.

 

After a quiet Sunday aboard doing homeschool and a few boat
repairs, we headed back to the city. Although the subway was crowded with morning rush hour
traffic, we did not experience 105 dB music, smell any stinkfruit (durian) or
see anyone carrying live goats or chickens. 
 
The first stop was FAO Swartz (toy store) uptown near central park.  Emily experienced culture shock with 3 floors
of toys.  We next wandered around central
park seeing the Handsome cabs and did some people watching around the pond. We
found authentic Maine lobster rolls for lunch at Luke’s Lobster in the Plaza
food center.  
We strolled down 5th avenue enjoying the
elaborate window displays.  St Patricks’
Cathedral was covered with scaffolding for renovations and Rockefeller center
was converted into a restaurant, so things were less impressive than we
remembered.  Not discouraged though, we
rounded the corner a turned into a LEGO store. 
Emily has not tired of LEGO and we even found a couple of bargains.  She hand built 3 mini-figures and filled a
container with all the special pieces she could fit in a special cup.
We were back on the boat by late afternoon and slept good
again in the Liberty Park anchorage. 
Tomorrow we will ride the 3-4 knot current up the East River through
Hell’s Gate and into Long Island sound. 
Our plan is to slowly work our way back towards Groton and our old yacht
club in Pine Island by early July.  Our
old car is still being revived after sitting for 6 years and we are uncertain
where we will find dockage while we unpack the boat.  Any Readers with dockage in the area are
encouraged to let us know.
Tom

Maryland, New Jersey and New York

We had a nice visit with Tom’s family in Ocean City, Maryland.  His mother lives 15 minutes away from the marina and we spent all but two nights sleeping off the boat at her home.  All three of us luxuriated in baths almost every night and really slept soundly in her beds. We played cards or other games each night and it was like we had never left.  She had a small list of things to do mostly in her kitchen area that was being updated.  Most items were completed quickly and we were happy to help out.  We also did some other little items and some cleaning but brother Jeff has been doing most of this work for the past six years.

 
While we visited, a local mechanic sorted out problems with a generator (new raw water and coolant pumps) and lugger transmission (reverse plates missing and damaged seals from Africa repair).  The work was more expensive than we have grown used to but the work seemed to be done right and higher prices, I fear, are going to be the norm from here on.

As a bonus, Tom got to see his brother Mike working on the kitchen and brother Jeff and sister-in-law Peggy and two of their 6 kids.  Emily really enjoyed playing with Brian who had latched on to her and never tired of playing games. We enjoyed being paraded around to my mother’s bingo and AARP clubs and we even got interviewed by Ocean City Today for an article about the circumnavigation.
After two weeks, we headed out to sea and after two quick stops in Atlantic City and Sandy Hook, we found ourselves anchored just off Liberty Park in New Jersey just across from New York City.  We still cannot believe that there is a free, protected anchorage near this city where most marinas charge about $200 per night for dockage. The half-broken dingy dock that was here in 2008 is now gone and we now have to dingy right under the Statue of Liberty torch and by Ellis Island to leave the dingy at the expensive marina.  From here we can take a $7 ferry right to the World Trade center in Manhattan.  

We stayed here for 5 nights exploring the city for two days. On our first day, we saw the 911 memorial that was quite moving and the new World Trade Center building (Freedom Tower) that was built while we were traveling. 

 

We then took the subway uptown to spend the day in the Museum of Natural History. We spent a full day exploring the museum and barely scratched the surface.  The pterosaur exhibit and the exhibit on poisons were particularly well done.  

 
One exhibit worked by standing on a special pad and flapping your arms, you could control a live video of a flying and hunting pterosaur.  Emily understood that all the information was being transmitted though her feet to the computer.  The foot pads could detect arms flapping by the fluctuating changes in foot pressure.  Pressure on the toes would cause the bird to dive for fish and pressure on the heels would make him soar higher.  Left and right turns would be directed by the differences in pressure caused by leaning…very well done.

Emily found it interesting that many of the poisons like the tarantula, manchineel tree and poison dart frogs had been seen (and handled) first hand! We also saw the Mysteries of the Unseen World in their IMAX theatre.

Day two kept us closer to the boat and we spent the day inside the Liberty Science Center which was about a 10 minute walk from our anchorage.  Although many of the exhibits and interactive displays were geared toward kids younger than Emily, there was still plenty to keep us amused all day.  A high cool factor was given to the 3D simulator that required remote operation of two robotic arms to do delicate tasks like moving and transferring small objects.  Emily was much better at this than Dad.
 

We also saw two movies (Great White Shark and Island of Lemurs: Madagascar) in the nation’s largest IMAX dome theater.  The domed screen is 88 feet in diameter and seats 400 which is just a tad bigger than the 17” screen on Emily Grace.

 

After a quiet Sunday aboard doing homeschool and a few boat repairs, we headed back to the city. Although the subway was crowded with morning rush hour traffic, we did not experience 105 dB music, smell any stinkfruit (durian) or see anyone carrying live goats or chickens.   
The first stop was FAO Swartz (toy store) uptown near central park.  Emily experienced culture shock with 3 floors of toys.  We next wandered around central park seeing the Handsome cabs and did some people watching around the pond. We found authentic Maine lobster rolls for lunch at Luke’s Lobster in the Plaza food center.  
We strolled down 5th avenue enjoying the elaborate window displays.  St Patricks’ Cathedral was covered with scaffolding for renovations and Rockefeller center was converted into a restaurant, so things were less impressive than we remembered.  Not discouraged though, we rounded the corner a turned into a LEGO store.  Emily has not tired of LEGO and we even found a couple of bargains.  She hand built 3 mini-figures and filled a container with all the special pieces she could fit in a special cup.
We were back on the boat by late afternoon and slept good again in the Liberty Park anchorage.  Tomorrow we will ride the 3-4 knot current up the East River through Hell’s Gate and into Long Island sound.  Our plan is to slowly work our way back towards Groton and our old yacht club in Pine Island by early July.  Our old car is still being revived after sitting for 6 years and we are uncertain where we will find dockage while we unpack the boat.  Any Readers with dockage in the area are encouraged to let us know.
Tom

Moving North up the Ditch

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It was a bumpy overnight ride from Charleston to Carolina
Beach, NC.  We slipped by Cape Fear into
the intracoastal, through Snows Cut and down Masonburo Sound to find our
destination.  Carolina Beach is a nice
town with the ocean on one side and the calm sound on the other with cottages
lined up between.  We were greeted at a
really nice dingy dock where they had individual slips for each dingy with
proper cleats.  We tied up and enjoyed
strolling the town. 

We found a nice place
serving local fried oyster Po-Boys that were really good.  As we walked near the beach we saw a line of
not less than 60 people lined up at Britts. 
We found out that they only serve one thing…hot, fresh glazed
doughnuts!  Since the locals promised that
they were famous “round these parts”, we joined the line and chowed down.  They were, in fact, good.
44 miles up the ditch, we pulled into Mike Hammock Bay for
the night, which is a part of Camp Lejune. 
We enjoyed watching the Marines playing war around us in the sea and
air.
 
Another 40 miles up the ditch brought us to Beaufort,
NC.  We visited the North Carolina
Maritime Museum were they had all kinds of artifacts from Blackbeards ship Queen
Anne’s Revenge
that was recently found nearby.  We stocked up at the Piggly Wiggly grocery
store (I just love that name) and moved on.
 
Two more anchorages in the Nuese and Alligator Rivers
allowed us to rest for two nights tied up at the free Elizabeth City
docks.  Kim spotted turtles all along the
rivers and even saw one alligator. We even found a free electrical plug in
Elizabeth City that I could reach with two 100 foot extension cords I had
aboard.  It was enjoyable being able to step
ashore and not running the generator to keep the batteries happy was also nice.
Another two nights and we crossed into Virginia and pulled
into a dock at Atlantic Yacht Basin. 
They are known for quality work and I needed a second opinion on a
transmission problem.  Unfortunately they
confirmed that I will need to pull it out of the boat (as I did in Africa 2
years ago) and change some seals.  Their
quote was too high so we made arrangements to have this work done while we
visit with my mother in Ocean City, Maryland.
We moved 10 miles to the north and found ourselves in
Norfolk, Va.  Here we found the Chrysler
Museum and Glassworks to be extraordinary and, even better, both were free to enter.  
 
 
The car magnate opened his collection to the
public and we all enjoyed the artwork and artifacts from around the world.   
 
 
The blown glass, cameos and paintings were breathtaking and this statues face really captured my emotion as I
discovered that my transmission needed to be repaired again!
We visited the Glassworks and saw a presentation where a
glass vase was created and blown from liquid glass to the finished product.
We had one more day to wait for weather to move up in the Atlantic
Ocean to Ocean City Maryland, so we went ashore again.  This day we visited the Nauticus museum. We spent 2 hours in the
morning just going through the museum and had lunch out side and came back to
see the ship.  Berthed at Nauticus, the Wisconsin is one of the largest and last battleships ever built by the U.S. Navy. It was impressive and
Emily liked seeing the oversized equipment like anchors and windlass compared
to our little ship.
The weather report finally said go and we headed out to sea
again.  It was another overnight passage to Ocean
City and we slipped into the marina at 8:30 AM. 
Once hooked up to power and water and rinsed off, we called my mother
who lives in nearby Berlin.  We will get
our transmission and generator all fixed up while we visit for 2 weeks.  My mother has a short list of handyman items
that I can help with and the whole crew is looking forward to long baths and
beds that don’t move!
Tom

Moving North up the Ditch


It was a bumpy overnight ride from Charleston to Carolina Beach, NC.  We slipped by Cape Fear into the intracoastal, through Snows Cut and down Masonburo Sound to find our destination.  Carolina Beach is a nice town with the ocean on one side and the calm sound on the other with cottages lined up between.  We were greeted at a really nice dingy dock where they had individual slips for each dingy with proper cleats.  We tied up and enjoyed strolling the town. 

We found a nice place serving local fried oyster Po-Boys that were really good.  As we walked near the beach we saw a line of not less than 60 people lined up at Britts.  We found out that they only serve one thing…hot, fresh glazed doughnuts!  Since the locals promised that they were famous “round these parts”, we joined the line and chowed down.  They were, in fact, good.
44 miles up the ditch, we pulled into Mike Hammock Bay for the night, which is a part of Camp Lejune.  We enjoyed watching the Marines playing war around us in the sea and air.
 
Another 40 miles up the ditch brought us to Beaufort, NC.  We visited the North Carolina Maritime Museum were they had all kinds of artifacts from Blackbeards ship Queen Anne’s Revenge that was recently found nearby.  We stocked up at the Piggly Wiggly grocery store (I just love that name) and moved on.
 
Two more anchorages in the Nuese and Alligator Rivers allowed us to rest for two nights tied up at the free Elizabeth City docks.  Kim spotted turtles all along the rivers and even saw one alligator. We even found a free electrical plug in Elizabeth City that I could reach with two 100 foot extension cords I had aboard.  It was enjoyable being able to step ashore and not running the generator to keep the batteries happy was also nice.
Another two nights and we crossed into Virginia and pulled into a dock at Atlantic Yacht Basin.  They are known for quality work and I needed a second opinion on a transmission problem.  Unfortunately they confirmed that I will need to pull it out of the boat (as I did in Africa 2 years ago) and change some seals.  Their quote was too high so we made arrangements to have this work done while we visit with my mother in Ocean City, Maryland.
We moved 10 miles to the north and found ourselves in Norfolk, Va.  Here we found the Chrysler Museum and Glassworks to be extraordinary and, even better, both were free to enter.  
 
 
The car magnate opened his collection to the public and we all enjoyed the artwork and artifacts from around the world.   
 
 
The blown glass, cameos and paintings were breathtaking and this statues face really captured my emotion as I discovered that my transmission needed to be repaired again!
We visited the Glassworks and saw a presentation where a glass vase was created and blown from liquid glass to the finished product.
We had one more day to wait for weather to move up in the Atlantic Ocean to Ocean City Maryland, so we went ashore again.  This day we visited the Nauticus museum. We spent 2 hours in the morning just going through the museum and had lunch out side and came back to see the ship.  Berthed at Nauticus, the Wisconsin is one of the largest and last battleships ever built by the U.S. Navy. It was impressive and Emily liked seeing the oversized equipment like anchors and windlass compared to our little ship.
The weather report finally said go and we headed out to sea again.  It was another overnight passage to Ocean City and we slipped into the marina at 8:30 AM.  Once hooked up to power and water and rinsed off, we called my mother who lives in nearby Berlin.  We will get our transmission and generator all fixed up while we visit for 2 weeks.  My mother has a short list of handyman items that I can help with and the whole crew is looking forward to long baths and beds that don’t move!
Tom

Charleston,South Carolina


Well, Emily Gracemay well have tried to make us linger in Charleston as she proceeded to let the overboard macerator pump fail on the passage from Georgia.  Since this little pump allows us to discharge waste when 3 miles offshore, it is mighty important and she may have succeeded. The captain, however, thwarted any such mutinous plan by having 2 spare pump impellers aboard.  Although that fixed the problem, the captain was also ready with another complete replacement pump!

 
In any event, we entered the Ashley River and found the private mooring ball that we had found and reserved using Active Captain on our Coastal Explorer navigation software.  Unfortunately the owner had left a decrepit dingy tied to it using copious amounts of rope.  Despite valiant efforts by Captain and crew, we couldn’t get the tangled line free with our boat hook and ended up with the dingy painter wrapped around the underwater stabilizer fin.  A local boater came over and with his help and the swift 2 knot current, we managed to break free unharmed and get temporarily re-attached to the mooring/dingy mess.  The owner of the mooring was then called and he borrowed my knife to cut off the tangled mess he had left us and we were then properly attached to the mooring ball.  It all worked out well, since we paid him $15 per night for a $20 per night mooring.  He got a $45 windfall for our 3-night stay and we got a good deal.

After foiling the mutiny and surviving the attack mooring ball, the crew deservedly went ashore to explore Charleston.  We found the gracious waterfront mansions and well-made but overpriced sweetgrass baskets were still as we left them back in our 2008 visit.  We revisited the oldest museum in America, the old slave market and the historic Nathaniel Russell house.
America’s oldest museum happens to be The Charleston Museum right here in South Carolina. It opened in 1773, and from the beginning, displayed geological specimens from its surrounding areas.  Outside there is a replica of the American Civil War H. L. Hunley submarine of the Confederate States of America. Drawing from my vast experience working at the Groton submarine factory (Ha Ha), I explained to Emily that the Hunley demonstrated the advantages and the dangers of undersea warfare. She was the first combat submarine to sink a warship, although Hunley was not completely submerged and, following her successful attack, was lost along with her crew before she could return to her base.  Apparently, the bowsprit containing the explosive charge was not quite long enough!
 
The exhibits inside run the gamut from textile and clothing to silver to lowcountry life, rise of the South, Revolutionary War, Civil War, natural history, and the most impressive arsenal of weaponry I’ve ever seen. If we only had one of these multibarrel rifles aboard, maybe we could have gone through the Somalia pirate waters!
 
The slave markets only redeeming quality is the ability to see the nicely made sweetgrass baskets.  Since we found and bought these same baskets in Dominica for less than 1/10th of the selling price here, we simply looked and complemented the ladies on their work.  Among the cheap trinkets being hawked here, Emily found some cool resin hair thingy’s she hopes will be OK with the school girls in Ludlow, Mass.
 
Located in Downtown Charleston near High Battery, the Nathaniel Russell House Museum at 51 Meeting Street, is widely recognized as one of America’s most important neoclassical dwellings and was worth the stop. The Historic Charleston Foundation purchased the National Historic Landmark in 1955, and the house served as the Foundation’s headquarters for 37 years. Today, the interiors are restored to their original 1808 grandeur and surrounded by formal gardens.

Nathaniel Russell was born in Bristol, Rhode Island. He settled in Charleston at the age of 27 in 1765, when Charleston was a bustling seaport. By 1774, Charleston boasted a per capita of wealth nearly four times that of all the American colonies. Russell’s career as a merchant involved the shipment of cargoes to and from New England, the West Indies, South America, Virginia, Great Britain, continental Europe, West Africa and Asia.

While most of his profits came from the exportation of staples, such as Carolina Gold rice, indigo, tobacco and cotton, Russell handled a broad range of imported goods. He also participated in the African slave trade both before and after the American Revolution.

The Nathaniel Russell House is an excellent example of the Adam style of architecture. Russell’s house was built when local carpenters had a decade of experience with the light and airy manner made popular by Robert Adam. His house has been called an exercise in ellipses, for from its free-flying stair to the wrought iron balconies, to the principal windows and doors, we found it to be extraordinary. It was the last great house of the city’s post-revolutionary period. Built in 1809, the house was listed in the National Register in 1971 and Designated a National Historic Landmark in 1973.

We also stepped into the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. The Cathedral seats 720 people and is noted for its Franz Mayer & Co. stained glass, hand painted Stations of the Cross, and neo-gothic architecture. The cornerstone was laid in 1890, and the church opened in 1907.

The sides of the Sanctuary are adorned with windows depicting the 4 Gospel writers with their winged creatures. Above the High Altar is the Chancel window. The top section is a rose window depicting St. John the Baptist baptizing Jesus with the Holy Spirit above. It is surrounded by 8 adoring angels playing instruments. Above the Rose window is a Sacred Heart. To the left of the Rose window is a pelican feeding her three newborn pelicans, and to the right is the Lamb of God. Below all of this is a 5-light replica of Da Vinci’s Last Supper.

In general, Charleston was a nice stop.  They need some free dingy docks and the shuttle busses (although free) were really overcrowded; but those are minor complaints.  After 2 tiring days of sightseeing, Tom started to plot the trip up the ditch towards North Carolina.  When we compared 3 long days of hand steering and bridge openings, we again decided to head for the ocean since we could do the same trip easily overnight.  Come along as our next stop will be in Carolina Beach, North Carolina.

Tom

Charleston,South Carolina

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Well, Emily Grace
may well have tried to make us linger in Charleston as she proceeded to let the
overboard macerator pump fail on the passage from Georgia.  Since this little pump allows us to discharge
waste when 3 miles offshore, it is mighty important and she may have succeeded.
The captain, however, thwarted any such mutinous plan by having 2 spare pump
impellers aboard.  Although that fixed
the problem, the captain was also ready with another complete replacement pump!

 
In any event, we entered the Ashley River and found the
private mooring ball that we had found and reserved using Active Captain on our
Coastal Explorer navigation software. 
Unfortunately the owner had left a decrepit dingy tied to it using
copious amounts of rope.  Despite valiant
efforts by Captain and crew, we couldn’t get the tangled line free with our
boat hook and ended up with the dingy painter wrapped around the underwater
stabilizer fin.  A local boater came over
and with his help and the swift 2 knot current, we managed to break free
unharmed and get temporarily re-attached to the mooring/dingy mess.  The owner of the mooring was then called and
he borrowed my knife to cut off the tangled mess he had left us and we were then
properly attached to the mooring ball. 
It all worked out well, since we paid him $15 per night for a $20 per
night mooring.  He got a $45 windfall for
our 3-night stay and we got a good deal.

After foiling the mutiny and surviving the attack mooring
ball, the crew deservedly went ashore to explore Charleston.  We found the gracious waterfront mansions and
well-made but overpriced sweetgrass baskets were still as we left them back in
our 2008 visit.  We revisited the oldest
museum in America, the old slave market and the historic Nathaniel Russell
house.
America’s oldest museum happens to be The Charleston Museum right
here in South Carolina. It opened in 1773, and from the beginning, displayed
geological specimens from its surrounding areas.  Outside there is a replica of the American
Civil War H. L. Hunley submarine of the Confederate States of America. Drawing
from my vast experience working at the Groton submarine factory (Ha Ha), I explained
to Emily that the Hunley demonstrated the advantages and the dangers of
undersea warfare. She was the first combat submarine to sink a warship,
although Hunley was not completely submerged and, following her successful
attack, was lost along with her crew before she could return to her base.  Apparently, the bowsprit containing the explosive charge was not quite long enough!
 
The exhibits inside run the gamut from textile and clothing
to silver to lowcountry life, rise of the South, Revolutionary War, Civil War,
natural history, and the most impressive arsenal of weaponry I’ve ever seen. If
we only had one of these multibarrel rifles aboard, maybe we could have gone
through the Somalia pirate waters!
 
The slave markets only redeeming quality is the ability to
see the nicely made sweetgrass baskets.  Since
we found and bought these same baskets in Dominica for less than 1/10th of the
selling price here, we simply looked and complemented the ladies on their work.  Among the cheap trinkets being hawked here,
Emily found some cool resin hair thingy’s she hopes will be OK with the school girls
in Ludlow, Mass.
 
Located in Downtown Charleston near High Battery, the
Nathaniel Russell House Museum at 51 Meeting Street, is widely recognized as one
of America’s most important neoclassical dwellings and was worth the stop. The Historic
Charleston Foundation purchased the National Historic Landmark in 1955, and the
house served as the Foundation’s headquarters for 37 years. Today, the
interiors are restored to their original 1808 grandeur and surrounded by formal
gardens.

Nathaniel Russell was born in Bristol, Rhode
Island. He settled in Charleston at the age of 27 in 1765, when Charleston was
a bustling seaport. By 1774, Charleston boasted a per capita of wealth nearly
four times that of all the American colonies. Russell’s career as a merchant
involved the shipment of cargoes to and from New England, the West Indies,
South America, Virginia, Great Britain, continental Europe, West Africa and
Asia.


While most of his profits came from the
exportation of staples, such as Carolina Gold rice, indigo, tobacco and cotton,
Russell handled a broad range of imported goods. He also participated in the
African slave trade both before and after the American Revolution.


The Nathaniel Russell House is an excellent
example of the Adam style of architecture. Russell’s house was built when local
carpenters had a decade of experience with the light and airy manner made
popular by Robert Adam. His house has been called an exercise in ellipses, for
from its free-flying stair to the wrought iron balconies, to the principal
windows and doors, we found it to be extraordinary. It was the last great house
of the city’s post-revolutionary period. Built in 1809, the house was listed in
the National Register in 1971 and Designated a National Historic Landmark in 1973.

We also stepped into the Cathedral of St. John
the Baptist. The Cathedral seats 720 people and is noted for its Franz Mayer
& Co. stained glass, hand painted Stations of the Cross, and neo-gothic
architecture. The cornerstone was laid in 1890, and the church opened in 1907.

The sides of the Sanctuary are adorned with
windows depicting the 4 Gospel writers with their winged creatures. Above the
High Altar is the Chancel window. The top section is a rose window depicting
St. John the Baptist baptizing Jesus with the Holy Spirit above. It is
surrounded by 8 adoring angels playing instruments. Above the Rose window is a Sacred
Heart. To the left of the Rose window is a pelican feeding her three newborn
pelicans, and to the right is the Lamb of God. Below all of this is a 5-light
replica of Da Vinci’s Last Supper.

In general, Charleston was a nice stop.  They need some free dingy docks and the shuttle
busses (although free) were really overcrowded; but those are minor
complaints.  After 2 tiring days of sightseeing,
Tom started to plot the trip up the ditch towards North Carolina.  When we compared 3 long days of hand steering
and bridge openings, we again decided to head for the ocean since we could do
the same trip easily overnight.  Come
along as our next stop will be in Carolina Beach, North Carolina.



Tom

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Florida to Georgia


We grabbed a $20 per night mooring from the St. Augustine Municipal Marina and enjoyed their nice dingy dock and WiFi from the boat.  The town was picturesque but we decided to head straight for Ripley’s Believe it or Not Museum.   It was a quirky collection of items collected around the world by one man.  We explained to Emily that as kids we would read about little bits and pieces of this collection weekly in our local town newspaper.  We were delighted that he had items from the many parts of the world that we had also seen, like Fiji, Vanuatu and Tahiti. Some of the items like this enormous carving from solid ivory were breathtaking.   

 

And many were simply silly.

We toured the Castillo San Marcos fort and enjoyed a guided tour from a knowledgeable historian.  He gave detailed information about the design and construction of the fort and explained that it was never breached although attacked many times.

 
Another day we enjoyed the Lightner museum and Flagler College.  We learned that Flagler made millions in Railroads and built much of this town.  The museum and college were once his hotels and he also built a magnificent church in memory of his daughter who died shortly after childbirth.

 

After 3 nights in St. Augustine, we motored up the ditch (intracoastal waterway) and anchored right off a stately southern plantation.   

 

The Kingsley Plantation has now been taken over by the Park system so the dock and a self-guided 2 hour tour (using an I-Phone) were all free. This plantation was unique in that Kingsley (a white man) had bought a (black) slave girl and made her his wife.  She was ultimately freed by him but owned and ruled over several slaves herself in her lifetime.  We enjoyed seeing the plantation house, stables and kitchen and the slave houses that were arranged in a village-like semi-circle.  This was a lovely, peaceful stop with quiet starlit nights and dolphins surfacing all around our home.

With the wind and seas calm, we headed off shore for the trip north to St. Marys River.  We tucked in the mouth of the river and turned north to enter Georgia and anchor off Cumberland Island.  This is also 90% national park land and free to us cruisers. The island had several mansions built by the Carnegie family (founder of US Steel) and the family horses were set free to roam here forever. 

 

We joined in on a 1 hour guided tour by a ranger that had lived on this island for 31 years. Understandably, she was very knowledgeable about the history and island wildlife.  We saw the Dungeness Mansion that was burned down in the 1950s but was still imposing.

 
We had time to walk to the Ocean side and enjoy the beach and the wildlife.

 

The wind and seas were still light 2 days later and we decided to push out to sea for an overnight passage to Charleston.  I am writing this blog while offshore and out of sight of land.  The seas are silky smooth with barely a ripple. Long period swells are rolling in from Africa and our home is slowly rising and falling as if we are riding on the back of an enormous, breathing creature.   

We plan to be on a mooring on the Ashley river and in sight of the dock where we first saw Emily Grace and purchased her in 2006.  We have a symbiotic relationship, this little ship and I.  I have mended her when she was broken and she has sheltered us from storms and raging seas. I wonder, Dear Reader, if Emily Grace will remember her previous life or is now content in the life she shares with our small family.
Tom

Florida to Georgia

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We grabbed a $20
per night mooring from the St. Augustine Municipal Marina and enjoyed their
nice dingy dock and WiFi from the boat. 
The town was picturesque but we decided to head straight for Ripley’s Believe it or Not Museum.   It was a quirky collection of items
collected around the world by one man. 
We explained to Emily that as kids we would read about little bits and
pieces of this collection weekly in our local town newspaper.  We were delighted that he had items from the
many parts of the world that we had also seen, like Fiji, Vanuatu and Tahiti.
Some of the items like this enormous carving from solid ivory were
breathtaking.   

 

And many were simply
silly.

We toured the
Castillo San Marcos fort and enjoyed a guided tour from a knowledgeable
historian.  He gave detailed information
about the design and construction of the fort and explained that it was never
breached although attacked many times.

 
Another day we
enjoyed the Lightner museum and Flagler College.  We learned that Flagler made millions in
Railroads and built much of this town. 
The museum and college were once his hotels and he also built a
magnificent church in memory of his daughter who died shortly after childbirth.

 


After 3 nights in
St. Augustine, we motored up the ditch (intracoastal waterway) and anchored
right off a stately southern plantation. 
 

 

The Kingsley Plantation has now been taken over by the Park system so
the dock and a self-guided 2 hour tour (using an I-Phone) were all free. This
plantation was unique in that Kingsley (a white man) had bought a (black) slave
girl and made her his wife.  She was
ultimately freed by him but owned and ruled over several slaves herself in her
lifetime.  We enjoyed seeing the
plantation house, stables and kitchen and the slave houses that were arranged
in a village-like semi-circle.  This was
a lovely, peaceful stop with quiet starlit nights and dolphins surfacing all
around our home.

With the wind and
seas calm, we headed off shore for the trip north to St. Marys River.  We tucked in the mouth of the river and
turned north to enter Georgia and anchor off Cumberland Island.  This is also 90% national park land and free
to us cruisers. The island had several mansions built by the Carnegie family (founder
of US Steel) and the family horses were set free to roam here forever. 

 

We
joined in on a 1 hour guided tour by a ranger that had lived on this island for
31 years. Understandably, she was very knowledgeable
about the history and island wildlife. 
We saw the Dungeness Mansion that was burned down in the 1950s but
was still imposing.

 
We had time to walk to the Ocean side and enjoy the beach and the wildlife.

 

The wind and seas
were still light 2 days later and we decided to push out to sea for an
overnight passage to Charleston.  I am
writing this blog while offshore and out of sight of land.  The seas are silky smooth with barely a
ripple. Long period swells are rolling in from Africa and our home is slowly
rising and falling as if we are riding on the back of an enormous, breathing
creature.   

We plan to be on a mooring on the
Ashley river and in sight of the dock where we first saw Emily Grace and purchased her in 2006.  We have a symbiotic relationship, this little
ship and I.  I have mended her when she
was broken and she has sheltered us from storms and raging seas. I wonder, Dear
Reader, if Emily Grace will remember
her previous life or is now content in the life she shares with our small
family.
Tom

Back to America…after 6 years

We had a perfect 24 hour passage from Great Sale Cay in the Abacos to Port Canaveral, Florida.  The winds were less than 10 knots (many less than 5 knots), calm seas and we arrived on time, 20 minutes before the marina opened at 8:00 AM.  We tied up at the fuel dock and 30 minutes later we were pumping 300 gallons of diesel into the tanks.  This fuel purchase got us 2 free nights at the marina which was hard to pass up.

Although we did have to catch a cab ride to customs and immigration, they did not board us or inspect anything.  The next day we met my cousin Nancy who informed us that she would be loaning us her car for our stay.  That was a very generous offer and we made good use of it over the next week finding and buying parts and provisions.  We now have an AT and T working cell phone and internet for our trip up the coast.  We arrived with almost empty freezers and now they are jammed full.  

We had several dinners with Cousins Barbara and Nancy and Barbara’s daughters’ family.  As they did in 2009, they fed us delicious meals and wanted nothing in return.  Connie and Bob have a daughter, Katherine, almost the same age as Emily.  She is smart as a whip and Emily quickly renewed the friendship started as we passed through in 2008. 

One night we bought take-out Chinese for everyone and we watched photo and video highlights from our trip while we ate.  We were so happy that Cousin Barry also joined us as we thought he would not be traveling north to see us.  Emily wrote a nice thank you note inside a book that Barry had loaned Emily back in 2008 and returned it to him.  It became one of her favorite books and now Barry has a book that has travelled around the world.
We managed to spend an entire day at the Kennedy Space Center and found it very enjoyable.  Emily did not recall much from our earlier visit and they had added several exhibits and well as the chance to see the Space Shuttle Atlantis up close.  Emily really enjoyed the simulators where we experienced the thrust of a shuttle launch and could try our hand at docking with the space station and manipulating the robotic arm.

We even got to drive the rover on the moon.  Really…can’t you see the earth behind us?

Despite requests that we stay longer, we have now pushed away from the Marina and are creeping slowly north up the Intra Coastal Waterway.  It is slow since we have to call ahead for bridge openings, or time our arrival to fixed opening times.  It is a refreshing change for us to have such calm waters and to enjoy the sights along the way.  We go through a few locks and some areas require planning for high tide so we do not run aground.  My line handlers also are good at pointing out manatees in the lock!  

We stopped overnight at a free dock in New Smyrna which is certainly in our budget. 

 
Kim is looking forward to stopping in Saint Augustine for a few days since we missed this lovely town on our dash south in 2008.  We were told to expect forts and museums and quaint shops and restaurants.  Come along and share our trip up the coast.

Although

Back to America…after 6 years

We had a perfect
24 hour passage from Great Sale Cay in the Abacos to Port Canaveral, Florida.  The winds were less than 10 knots (many less
than 5 knots), calm seas and we arrived on time, 20 minutes before the marina
opened at 8:00 AM.  We tied up at the
fuel dock and 30 minutes later we were pumping 300 gallons of diesel into the
tanks.  This fuel purchase got us 2 free
nights at the marina which was hard to pass up.

Although we did
have to catch a cab ride to customs and immigration, they did not board us or
inspect anything.  The next day we met my
cousin Nancy who informed us that she would be loaning us her car for our
stay.  That was a very generous offer and
we made good use of it over the next week finding and buying parts and
provisions.  We now have an AT and T
working cell phone and internet for our trip up the coast.  We arrived with almost empty freezers and now
they are jammed full.  

We had several
dinners with Cousins Barbara and Nancy and Barbara’s daughters’ family.  As they did in 2009, they fed us delicious meals and wanted nothing in return.  Connie and Bob have a daughter, Katherine,
almost the same age as Emily.  She is smart as a
whip and Emily quickly renewed the friendship started as we passed through in
2008. 

One night we
bought take-out Chinese for everyone and we watched photo and video highlights
from our trip while we ate.  We were so
happy that Cousin Barry also joined us as we thought he would not be traveling north
to see us.  Emily wrote a nice thank you
note inside a book that Barry had loaned Emily back in 2008 and returned it to
him.  It became one of her favorite books
and now Barry has a book that has travelled around the world.

We managed to
spend an entire day at the Kennedy Space Center and found it very
enjoyable.  Emily did not recall much
from our earlier visit and they had added several exhibits and well as the chance
to see the Space Shuttle Atlantis up close. 
Emily really enjoyed the simulators where we experienced the thrust of a
shuttle launch and could try our hand at docking with the space station and
manipulating the robotic arm.

We even got to drive the rover on the moon.  Really…can’t you see the earth behind us?

Despite requests
that we stay longer, we have now pushed away from the Marina and are creeping
slowly north up the Intra Coastal Waterway. 
It is slow since we have to call ahead for bridge openings, or time our
arrival to fixed opening times.  It is a
refreshing change for us to have such calm waters and to enjoy the sights along
the way.  We go through a few locks and
some areas require planning for high tide so we do not run aground.  My line handlers also are good at pointing
out manatees in the lock!  

We stopped
overnight at a free dock in New Smyrna which is certainly in our budget. 

 
Kim is looking
forward to stopping in Saint Augustine for a few days since we missed this
lovely town on our dash south in 2008. 
We were told to expect forts and museums and quaint shops and
restaurants.  Come along and share our
trip up the coast.

Tom