Our plan was to spend the month of March back in Western Panamá, visiting its pristine and peaceful anchorages after our intriguing fly-by on the way to Panama City.
And after our week in the Darién, followed by a whirlwind trip to the States, then hauling Pax out of the water the morning after our return to fix the boo-boos she got when we knocked the reef in the Perlas Islands, we were looking forward to some relaxing weeks on the hook, off the grid, curled up with a good book and little in the way of chores or obligations.
Then our friends Eric and Dawn aboard s/v Perfect Wave asked if we’d like to make the passage with them to the Galápagos for a few weeks. It’s 900 miles, a six day offshore passage. Like Perfect Wave, we’d done some multi-day passages, but nowhere near this long, and not offshore. But it suddenly seemed like a great idea, so we hurriedly made permit arrangements online, grabbed some provisions, and four days later we were off to the Galápagos.
Pax Nautica underway several hundred miles off the Colombian coast
We had a marvelous passage, pushed along much of the way by favorable currents and enjoying calm weather. Not enough of a breeze to keep Perfect Wave’s sails full much of the time, but our two boats are very well matched for speed when they are motoring or motor-sailing so things worked out well.
Perfect Wave: Eric and Dawn, with Whitney and Tommy
The passage involved crossing the equator to the southern hemisphere, which, for you landlubbers, is a very big deal aboard a boat. We were all Pollywogs, meaning naive, know-nothing bozos who had not yet made the crossing.
Val and Stan ready for a typical dinner aboard Pax Nautica prior to our equator crossing
Tommy, Dawn and Whitney, crew of Perfect Wave, happily and obediently preparing to trim the sails… or whatever it is those sailboat people do… for Captain Eric
Chart plotter showing our two boats ready to cross the line
Neptune can be counted on to arrive aboard each boat with his entourage, including Davey Jones, to test, penalize and otherwise harass all Pollywogs. Anything can happen! I can’t begin to explain what transpired aboard our two vessels. All I can tell you is that we emerged feeling somehow changed. Perhaps we are just more seasoned mariners now, who can say?
Val and Stan, now officially Shellbacks, underway in the southern hemisphere
New Shellbacks Dawn, Tommy, Whitney and Eric
Another milestone for us was logging our 10,000th mile aboard Pax Nautica just hours before our equator crossing.
A booby rides on our bowsprit as we arrive in the Galápagos Archipelago.
Landfall in the Islands. Behind the dramatic rock is Isla San Cristóbal, our first anchorage.
The islands have an interesting mix of plant life, but the ubiquitous lava rock is always there to remind you of their geologic origins
On San Cristóbal, we reconnected with Aussies John and LeeAnn aboard s/v Red Sky, and met new friends Nicholas and Lynn of s/v Schweetie, also from Australia. And later, on Isabela, we were happy to reunite with Peter and Cheryl of s/v Stolen Kiss. The three boats ultimately left together on their puddle jump on March 27, bound for the Marquesas Islands in the South Pacific. That will be a passage of three weeks, or longer depending on the wind they encounter.
Meanwhile, we played together…
… and snorkeled
… and walked around the town. The local fish market
Sea lion on our swim step. Sea lions own the town on this island and are not shy.
Lots of marine iguanas, in and out of the water. The video clip below of one eating his lunch on the rocks shows how relaxed they are around people.
On the next island we visited, Santa Cruz, we hiked to a beautiful swimming hole called Las Grietas, dramatically situated with high rocky canyon walls on all sides.
Those more energetic and less risk-averse than us could climb the rocks for a refreshing plunge.
Exploring the lava tubes, long tunnels left by flowing molten lava
We also traveled to the highlands on Santa Cruz, to a privately owned ranch you can visit. We tromped around on our own for a few hours there, watching lots of Galápagos tortoises in their natural habitat.
They seem to spend most of their time munching on the greenery and on the loads of ripe guava fruits that drop from the trees.
Taking a mud bath
This male chased the female around, surprising us with how fast they can move when motivated. Dawn in the background gives you a concept of their size.
On Isla Isabela, largest of the islands, we traveled to the highlands one day for a five hour hike along the rim of the volcano Sierra Negra.
Below are some lava fields of the very different looking Volcán Chico, along the same trail.
Our personal favorite highlight of the islands was a tour that is not even mentioned in Lonely Planet or some of the other guides we had on hand. Locals call it the Tunnels and for those planning a Galápagos trip, it’s not to be missed if you visit Isla Isabela.
Starting with a 45 minute panga ride up the coast…
Above is a giant manta ray just below the surface. We also saw lots of hammerhead sharks, and sea turtles.
After an exhilarating crossing of the churning surf zone, we arrived in a beautiful place that I can only describe as other-worldly. A lagoon of gin-clear water laced with whimsical lava-rock arches and tunnels forming a strange labyrinth. On the rocks we saw penguins, such a bizarre sight in the warm weather almost right on the equator.
Sea turtle seen from atop one of the arches
A blue-footed booby shows off his signature feature
Then as icing on the cake, we got to snorkel in the shallows…
… with the white tipped reef sharks
… and sea turtles that lumbered by close enough to touch.
The weeks have zoomed by at light speed. This afternoon we get our clearance out of the country of Ecuador. We depart tomorrow near sunset, with Perfect Wave, for Costa Rica. First stop after 2.5 days: Isla del Cocos, some 300 miles off the mainland, known for its Jurassic-Park-like grandeur and schools of hammerheads to see while snorkeling or diving.
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