Langley is a compact, restaurant-filled town perched on the cliffs above Saratoga Passage on Whidbey Island north of Seattle. We had visited by boat many times, but not for over a decade. We returned this year for a weekend in the Inn at Langley’s spectacular Saratoga Suite, with its large deck overlooking the water (pictured…
Tag Archives | trawler
Guam to Chile – Blog Post 12
October 4, 2024 – Pitcairn Island
Arriving off Bounty Bay, Pitcairn Island, shortly before dawn, we were amazed by how steep and rocky the 3 miles by 1 mile island was. The terrain ranged from steep cliffs to lush jungles, with almost no flat areas. Adamstown, the principal housing area, is perched on a sloping area about 350 feet in altitude. The maximum elevation is over 1000 feet. The weather conditions at Pitcairn Island, off Bounty Bay, the only landing spot, were marginal, but doable, so some local officials, including the mayor came on board and gave us a briefing on activities ashore, and the lifestyle of the current 43 residents. The mayor is 7th generation Pitcairn Island, but spent time off island in Alaska. The only children left on the island are in boarding schools in New Zealand, so the local school is now closed. Life on Pitcairn is hard, income comes from selling handicrafts and honey to the occasional expedition vessel and wages from the New Zealand government. Most residents hold two or more jobs, but the rate of pay has not kept up with inflation, so expedition ships are welcome. Each resident is also responsible for their gardens and house maintenance and other community tasks. Pitcairn welcomes new residents, but the hard lifestyle is not attractive to many. The island is now 100 percent solar, with a backup generator and has installed Starlink, so they are well connected to the rest of the world.
 |
| Pitcairn Island from Google Earth |
About 0930, we were cleared to begin landing. The swells were running up to 2 meters. The landing zone was awash in 6 inches of water and as the swell came down the side of the vessel, often the zodiac was well above the edge of the landing zone, which then had water knee deep. As the zodiac went down in the swell, the water cascaded out of the landing zone back into the zodiac. Needless to say, boarding the zodiac was an exciting evolution, as was the landing in Bounty Bay. One zodiac at a time entered the bay, nosed into the seawall and disgorged the passengers. Nearby is the boathouse containing the motorized longboats used to transfer supplies from the ship which provisions the island from New Zealand.
 |
| Longboats used for resupply |
 |
| Looking down the Hill of Difficulty Road |
The walk up the “hill of difficulty” road was steep and hot. The paved road is named appropriately. Once at the top the road leveled out, passes by the general store, open three hours per week, the post office and finally enters the “Town Square.” The anchor from HMAV Bounty has been recovered and is on display in front of the old community center. Fletcher Christian’s cave is clearly visible from the community center.
 |
| General Store and Post Office |
 |
| Bounty Anchor at Town Square |
 |
| Fletcher Christian Cave |
 |
| On the way to St. Pauls Pool |
 |
| Seabourn Pursuit from trail to St. Pauls Pool |
 |
| Up the Hill of Difficulty Road |
Patrick joined a group hiking the 7 KM to St. Pauls Pool but decided to stop at the crest of the trail rather than lose all the 700-foot elevation descending to sea level and then have the hike back up in the hot, sunny conditions. After an easy walk back down the hill to the town square and then back down the “hill of difficulty” road, it was a short wait before taking a zodiac back to the ship, arriving at little after 1400 pm. The last zodiac boarded about 1600 pm, and by 1630 pm Seabourn Pursuit was underway for Ducie Island.
Guam to Chile – Blog Post 12
October 4, 2024 – Pitcairn Island
Arriving off Bounty Bay, Pitcairn Island, shortly before dawn, we were amazed by how steep and rocky the 3 miles by 1 mile island was. The terrain ranged from steep cliffs to lush jungles, with almost no flat areas. Adamstown, the principal housing area, is perched on a sloping area about 350 feet in altitude. The maximum elevation is over 1000 feet. The weather conditions at Pitcairn Island, off Bounty Bay, the only landing spot, were marginal, but doable, so some local officials, including the mayor came on board and gave us a briefing on activities ashore, and the lifestyle of the current 43 residents. The mayor is 7th generation Pitcairn Island, but spent time off island in Alaska. The only children left on the island are in boarding schools in New Zealand, so the local school is now closed. Life on Pitcairn is hard, income comes from selling handicrafts and honey to the occasional expedition vessel and wages from the New Zealand government. Most residents hold two or more jobs, but the rate of pay has not kept up with inflation, so expedition ships are welcome. Each resident is also responsible for their gardens and house maintenance and other community tasks. Pitcairn welcomes new residents, but the hard lifestyle is not attractive to many. The island is now 100 percent solar, with a backup generator and has installed Starlink, so they are well connected to the rest of the world.
|
| Pitcairn Island from Google Earth |
About 0930, we were cleared to begin landing. The swells were running up to 2 meters. The landing zone was awash in 6 inches of water and as the swell came down the side of the vessel, often the zodiac was well above the edge of the landing zone, which then had water knee deep. As the zodiac went down in the swell, the water cascaded out of the landing zone back into the zodiac. Needless to say, boarding the zodiac was an exciting evolution, as was the landing in Bounty Bay. One zodiac at a time entered the bay, nosed into the seawall and disgorged the passengers. Nearby is the boathouse containing the motorized longboats used to transfer supplies from the ship which provisions the island from New Zealand.
|
| Longboats used for resupply |
|
| Looking down the Hill of Difficulty Road |
The walk up the “hill of difficulty” road was steep and hot. The paved road is named appropriately. Once at the top the road leveled out, passes by the general store, open three hours per week, the post office and finally enters the “Town Square.” The anchor from HMAV Bounty has been recovered and is on display in front of the old community center. Fletcher Christian’s cave is clearly visible from the community center.
|
| General Store and Post Office |
|
| Bounty Anchor at Town Square |
|
| Fletcher Christian Cave |
|
| On the way to St. Pauls Pool |
|
| Seabourn Pursuit from trail to St. Pauls Pool |
|
| Up the Hill of Difficulty Road |
Patrick joined a group hiking the 7 KM to St. Pauls Pool but decided to stop at the crest of the trail rather than lose all the 700-foot elevation descending to sea level and then have the hike back up in the hot, sunny conditions. After an easy walk back down the hill to the town square and then back down the “hill of difficulty” road, it was a short wait before taking a zodiac back to the ship, arriving at little after 1400 pm. The last zodiac boarded about 1600 pm, and by 1630 pm Seabourn Pursuit was underway for Ducie Island.
Guam to Chile – Blog Post 11
September 28, 2024 – Papeete
This morning we departed on an “included” tour of the so-called undiscovered Tahiti. The tour included stops at botanical gardens, fern caves, a new Tahitian cultural museum, and a private home’s botanical gardens followed by refreshing juice drinks in the owner’s gazebo. The tour returned to the ship about 1400 and we joined in the “sail-away” party as Seabourn Pursuit’s lines were cast off and we exited the harbor with the sun low in the sky.
 |
| Captain Cook’s Anchor |
 |
| Sculpture at the Tahitian Museum |
 |
| Tike at the Marae Entrance |
 |
| Marae – sacred ground |
 |
| Tiki’s scattered all over |
 |
| Another Tiki |
 |
| Part of central market |
 |
| Parrot fish for sale in central market |
 |
| Ginger at botanical garden |
 |
| View from Gazebo at private home |
 |
| Fern Grotto |
 |
| Tahitian Cultural Museum |
 |
| Ancient dugout canoe |
 |
| Departing Papeete |
The ship headed east for Anaa, a beautiful atoll in the Tuamotu group in French Polynesia.
September 29, 2024 – Anaa
Seabourn Pursuit took up station off the small harbor at Anaa and most guests headed ashore in the Zodiacs for a dry landing followed by a short walk along the paved road to the inner side of the lagoon, where the village is located. There are about 450 residents on the atoll. Patrick also went ashore, but via a kayak excursion, which also ended up the village.
 |
| Anaa Atoll |
 |
| Anaa landing zone |
The village had a large open-air pavilion by the beach where the performances by the village residents were performed. Following the dances, there were large varieties of local foods set out for tasting, as well as delicious drinking coconuts. There was also a large pavilion with a variety of local handicrafts, including black pearls.
 |
| Dancers at Anaa |
 |
| Proa in Anaa Lagoon |
 |
| Local Church on Anaa |
 |
| Inside the local church – light fixtures are shell |
 |
| Local Dancers on Anaa |
Patrick’s kayaking group headed back, but by now the tide had gone out enough that they had to walk and drag the kayaks several places to get back to the landing sites. There are several small entrances into the lagoon, but the currents are too high for safe kayaking. Even the route we took, in very shallow water with occasional groundings, had a fair amount of current until well past the pass.
September 30, 2024 – Tahanea
Tahanea is a large uninhabited atoll and nature preserve. The atoll measures 30 miles long with a maximum width of 15 miles and a total area of 210 square miles. There are three navigable passes for smaller vessels, and there was one sailboat anchored just south of the pass where Seabourn Pursuit took up position.
The activities offered here were snorkeling, zodiac tours and kayaking. Patrick did the kayaking tour in the crystal clear waters where reef sharks were sighted and Julie took a Zodiac tour. No one from the ship was allowed to land, but that apparently did not apply the the people and dog on the sailboat, who were wandering around. There was a crude shelter with a mooring buoy in front, but other than the shelter, only birds occupied the atoll.
 |
| Kayaking in Tahanea Lagoon |
Following our stop, Seabourn Pursuit reversed course and headed back north to Fakarava atoll to drop the French Polynesia officials and clear the ship out of French Polynesia before heading back southeast towards Pitcairn Islands, a British Overseas Territory. One of those Islands, Pitcairn, is famous for in part in the “Mutiny on the Bounty.”
October 1-3, at Sea
The voyage to Pitcairn Islands is about 860 NM from Fakarava Atoll, which will take three days. The seas were moderate, but with a beam swell which made the ride somewhat uncomfortable. The sea days were filled with lectures and other activities, as we prepared for the Pitcairn Island visit. We will also visit Ducie Island, an atoll part of the Pitcairn Islands group. There are four islands forming the group, and the group has been designated a Marine Protected Area, now the fourth largest in the world. The designation will severely limit commercial exploitation and preserve the unique ecology of the islands.
Guam to Chile – Blog Post 11
September 28, 2024 – Papeete
This morning we departed on an “included” tour of the so-called undiscovered Tahiti. The tour included stops at botanical gardens, fern caves, a new Tahitian cultural museum, and a private home’s botanical gardens followed by refreshing juice drinks in the owner’s gazebo. The tour returned to the ship about 1400 and we joined in the “sail-away” party as Seabourn Pursuit’s lines were cast off and we exited the harbor with the sun low in the sky.
|
| Captain Cook’s Anchor |
|
| Sculpture at the Tahitian Museum |
|
| Tike at the Marae Entrance |
|
| Marae – sacred ground |
|
| Tiki’s scattered all over |
|
| Another Tiki |
|
| Part of central market |
|
| Parrot fish for sale in central market |
|
| Ginger at botanical garden |
|
| View from Gazebo at private home |
|
| Fern Grotto |
|
| Tahitian Cultural Museum |
|
| Ancient dugout canoe |
|
| Departing Papeete |
The ship headed east for Anaa, a beautiful atoll in the Tuamotu group in French Polynesia.
September 29, 2024 – Anaa
Seabourn Pursuit took up station off the small harbor at Anaa and most guests headed ashore in the Zodiacs for a dry landing followed by a short walk along the paved road to the inner side of the lagoon, where the village is located. There are about 450 residents on the atoll. Patrick also went ashore, but via a kayak excursion, which also ended up the village.
|
| Anaa Atoll |
|
| Anaa landing zone |
The village had a large open-air pavilion by the beach where the performances by the village residents were performed. Following the dances, there were large varieties of local foods set out for tasting, as well as delicious drinking coconuts. There was also a large pavilion with a variety of local handicrafts, including black pearls.
|
| Dancers at Anaa |
|
| Proa in Anaa Lagoon |
|
| Local Church on Anaa |
|
| Inside the local church – light fixtures are shell |
|
| Local Dancers on Anaa |
Patrick’s kayaking group headed back, but by now the tide had gone out enough that they had to walk and drag the kayaks several places to get back to the landing sites. There are several small entrances into the lagoon, but the currents are too high for safe kayaking. Even the route we took, in very shallow water with occasional groundings, had a fair amount of current until well past the pass.
September 30, 2024 – Tahanea
Tahanea is a large uninhabited atoll and nature preserve. The atoll measures 30 miles long with a maximum width of 15 miles and a total area of 210 square miles. There are three navigable passes for smaller vessels, and there was one sailboat anchored just south of the pass where Seabourn Pursuit took up position.
The activities offered here were snorkeling, zodiac tours and kayaking. Patrick did the kayaking tour in the crystal clear waters where reef sharks were sighted and Julie took a Zodiac tour. No one from the ship was allowed to land, but that apparently did not apply the the people and dog on the sailboat, who were wandering around. There was a crude shelter with a mooring buoy in front, but other than the shelter, only birds occupied the atoll.
|
| Kayaking in Tahanea Lagoon |
Following our stop, Seabourn Pursuit reversed course and headed back north to Fakarava atoll to drop the French Polynesia officials and clear the ship out of French Polynesia before heading back southeast towards Pitcairn Islands, a British Overseas Territory. One of those Islands, Pitcairn, is famous for in part in the “Mutiny on the Bounty.”
October 1-3, at Sea
The voyage to Pitcairn Islands is about 860 NM from Fakarava Atoll, which will take three days. The seas were moderate, but with a beam swell which made the ride somewhat uncomfortable. The sea days were filled with lectures and other activities, as we prepared for the Pitcairn Island visit. We will also visit Ducie Island, an atoll part of the Pitcairn Islands group. There are four islands forming the group, and the group has been designated a Marine Protected Area, now the fourth largest in the world. The designation will severely limit commercial exploitation and preserve the unique ecology of the islands.
Wrapping up Alaska Cruise 2024
Our 2024 cruise bore a remarkable resemblance to 2023. While we left a week later, we still managed to attend the Little Norway Festival in Petersburg, Alaska in the middle of May. In both years we spent about 60% of our nights anchored and 40% on the docks. The miles covered were similar (3,091 in 2024 versus 3,025 in 2023). The shortened trip was largely due to the 13 days in August for the haul out in Port Townsend.
Year # of Days At Anchor At a Dock On a Buoy Distance Traveled Engine Hours Gen. Hours Time Idling 2010 129 57 66 5 3,221 517.1 40.4 2011 115 81 33 3,465 577.4 31.3 2013 151 99 50 1 3,667 630.0 53.3 2014 141 86 48 6 4,052 720.8 34.8 48.5 2015 104 67 31 5 3,580 629.2 28.7 42.4 2016 141 99 39 2 3,979 700.0 51.9 68.6 2017 140 91 46 2 3,817 656.5 62.2 51.1 2018 112 71 40 3,170 528.6 33.9 38.2 2019 118 82 35 3,816 649.5 16.3 56.6 2020 63 42 12 6 2,527 399.7 32.8 11.5 2021 110 81 26 2 3,317 554.0 66.0 27.5 2022 139 88 47 3 3,584 613.6 19.5 42.9 2023 139 84 54 3,024 510.4 36.0 33.7 2024 122 73 48 3,091 529.8 24.8 26.9 1,724 1,101 575 32 48,310 8216.6 531.9 447.9
As a footnote to the table above, if you add up the nightly stops (at anchor, at a dock or on a buoy), the total, 1,708, is 16 short of the total number of days, 1,724. The difference is the 14 days at the end of the trip when I don’t count the night we return to our homeport and two days in 2020 during Covid when we did an overnight passage and did not stop.
Below is a map of our stops in the 2024 cruising season. Clicking on one of the “dropped pins” will pull up some information about the stop. At the top right of the map is an icon which will open a separate window that may be easier to navigate.
The map below shows all of the places we have stopped overnight during all our cruises through 2024. It is similar in style to our yearly cruise map except that when the marker for a particular spot is selected, the data for the spot is the total number of times we’ve stayed and in which years.
Wrapping up Alaska Cruise 2024
Our 2024 cruise bore a remarkable similarity to 2023. While we left a week later, we still managed to attend the Little Norway Festival in Petersburg, Alaska in the middle of May. In both years we spent about 60% of our nights anchored and 40% on the docks. The miles covered were similar (3,091 in 2024 versus 3,025 in 2023). The shortened trip was largely due to the 13 days in August for the haul out in Port Townsend.
Year # of Days At Anchor At a Dock On a Buoy Distance Traveled Engine Hours Gen. Hours Time Idling 2010 129 57 66 5 3,221 517.1 40.4 2011 115 81 33 3,465 577.4 31.3 2013 151 99 50 1 3,667 630.0 53.3 2014 141 86 48 6 4,052 720.8 34.8 48.5 2015 104 67 31 5 3,580 629.2 28.7 42.4 2016 141 99 39 2 3,979 700.0 51.9 68.6 2017 140 91 46 2 3,817 656.5 62.2 51.1 2018 112 71 40 3,170 528.6 33.9 38.2 2019 118 82 35 3,816 649.5 16.3 56.6 2020 63 42 12 6 2,527 399.7 32.8 11.5 2021 110 81 26 2 3,317 554.0 66.0 27.5 2022 139 88 47 3 3,584 613.6 19.5 42.9 2023 139 84 54 3,024 510.4 36.0 33.7 2024 122 73 48 3,091 529.8 24.8 26.9 1,724 1,101 575 32 48,310 8216.6 531.9 447.9
Below is a map of our stops in the 2024 cruising season. Clicking on one of the “dropped pins” will pull up some information about the stop. At the top right of the map is an icon which will open a separate window that may be easier to navigate.
The map below shows all of the places we have stopped overnight during all our cruises. It is similar in style to our yearly cruise maps except that when the marker for a particular spot is selected, the data for the spot is the total number of times we’ve stayed and in which years.
Tunnels in Madeira
“Sometimes it’s the journey that teaches you a lot about your destination.” — Drake
We were very impressed with the roads in Madeira. They’re well maintained, well marked and easy to navigate. We noticed two main differences between Madeira and the USA…lots of roundabouts and lots of tunnels. Without the tunnels travel would be almost impossible.
Madeiran Cuisine
“Food is the passport to a thousand journeys, each bite an adventure.” –Unknown
Madeira’s cuisine is influenced by many different flavors and ingredients due to its location in the Atlantic Ocean between Portugal and Morocco. Seafood is a staple of the traditional Madeiran diet, and the island is known for its oily fish like tuna and skipjack tuna, as well as leaner fish like black scabbard. Other popular seafood dishes include limpets, octopus and squid. Here are some other traditional Madeiran dishes:
Bolo do Caco – A traditional local flatbread made with flour and sweet potatoes and cooked on the stovetop or fire. It’s served warm with garlic and parsley butter. We loved, loved, loved this bread. I will be making some at home. Bolo de Mel de Cana (sugar cane honey cake) – A dense sponge cake made with nuts and spices and considered the island’s oldest desert. Tastes a bit like a spicy fruit cake. Pão de Deus (“Bread for God”) – A traditional Portuguese bread made with a blend of soft bread topped with a sweet coconut layer. This one we wanted to try, but never seemed to find it.
Prego – A sandwich made with bolo do caco bread spread with garlic butter and a thin beef steak. Sometimes it’s served with lettuce, tomato, cheese and ham. It’s truly delicious. I’d have to say they’re almost better than a hamburger. Lapas or Limpets (Barnacles) – Are mollusks, similar to clams, which have a conical shaped shell, living strongly attached to rocks along the shoreline. Served in Madeira grilled with butter, garlic and a squeeze of lemon. Wanted to try these but just didn’t. Caldeirada (stew) – A unique fish and seafood stew cooked in a clay pot. We saw this on the menus, but didn’t have a chance to try it.
Espetada (skewered) – Grilled beef traditionally cooked on skewers made of the local laurel wood. The meat is cut in cubes and seasoned with garlic, rock salt, and bay leaf before cooking it over hot coals. Most of these were large enough to feed several people. The servings of these are very large.
Espada (black scabbard fish) – A Madeira traditional food that looks pretty scary and unappetizing until it’s cooked. It has a delicate in flavor and a Madeiran food not to miss. Stan had this fish at least four times and loved it.
The traditional way to serve it is with fried bananas.
Octopus – Although not a traditional Madeira dish, it’s incredibly popular on the island. You can have it cooked in lots of different ways, as a starter, as a side or with rice. It was our first time to try octopus and it was very good.
Carne de Vinha D’alhos (Garlic Vineyard Meat) – A Madeira dish that consists of small pieces of pork meat marinated in garlic and wine for at least a day, and then cooked in the marinade. We didn’t have a chance to try this one either.
Nata – Devine little treats with a crusty flaky pastry filled to the brim with sweet egg custard and caramelized on top. Very popular in Portugal. We had these little treats in many places.
Madeira Wine – originated in the 18th century, when the island started exporting wine to the rest of the world. They found that the wine that wasn’t sold and was returned home was much more aromatic and flavorful than when it first left the island. We have tried this wine here and at home and we aren’t big fans.
Poncha – A traditional alcoholic drink made with aguardente de cana (sugar cane rum), sugar and either orange juice or lemon juice. Some varieties include other fruit juices. These were very good…somewhere better than others.
Brisa Maracujá – A naturally carbonated soft drink made from purple passion fruit juice and treated water. It was created in 1970 and was the first soft drink in the world to be made from pure passion fruit juice. I did try the original and I wasn’t a fan.
Madeiran Cuisine
“Food is the passport to a thousand journeys, each bite an adventure.” –Unknown
Madeira’s cuisine is influenced by many different flavors and ingredients due to its location in the Atlantic Ocean between Portugal and Morocco. Seafood is a staple of the traditional Madeiran diet, and the island is known for its oily fish like tuna and skipjack tuna, as well as leaner fish like black scabbard. Other popular seafood dishes include limpets, octopus and squid. Here are some other traditional Madeiran dishes:
Bolo do Caco – A traditional local flatbread made with flour and sweet potatoes and cooked on the stovetop or fire. It’s served warm with garlic and parsley butter. We loved, loved, loved this bread. I will be making some at home. Bolo de Mel de Cana (sugar cane honey cake) – A dense sponge cake made with nuts and spices and considered the island’s oldest desert. Tastes a bit like a spicy fruit cake. Pão de Deus (“Bread for God”) – A traditional Portuguese bread made with a blend of soft bread topped with a sweet coconut layer. This one we wanted to try, but never seemed to find it.
Prego – A sandwich made with bolo do caco bread spread with garlic butter and a thin beef steak. Sometimes it’s served with lettuce, tomato, cheese and ham. It’s truly delicious. I’d have to say they’re almost better than a hamburger. Lapas or Limpets (Barnacles) – Are mollusks, similar to clams, which have a conical shaped shell, living strongly attached to rocks along the shoreline. Served in Madeira grilled with butter, garlic and a squeeze of lemon. Wanted to try these but just didn’t. Caldeirada (stew) – A unique fish and seafood stew cooked in a clay pot. We saw this on the menus, but didn’t have a chance to try it.
Espetada (skewered) – Grilled beef traditionally cooked on skewers made of the local laurel wood. The meat is cut in cubes and seasoned with garlic, rock salt, and bay leaf before cooking it over hot coals. Most of these were large enough to feed several people. The servings of these are very large.
Espada (black scabbard fish) – A Madeira traditional food that looks pretty scary and unappetizing until it’s cooked. It has a delicate in flavor and a Madeiran food not to miss. Stan had this fish at least four times and loved it.
The traditional way to serve it is with fried bananas.
Octopus – Although not a traditional Madeira dish, it’s incredibly popular on the island. You can have it cooked in lots of different ways, as a starter, as a side or with rice. It was our first time to try octopus and it was very good.
Carne de Vinha D’alhos (Garlic Vineyard Meat) – A Madeira dish that consists of small pieces of pork meat marinated in garlic and wine for at least a day, and then cooked in the marinade. We didn’t have a chance to try this one either.
Nata – Devine little treats with a crusty flaky pastry filled to the brim with sweet egg custard and caramelized on top. Very popular in Portugal. We had these little treats in many places.
Madeira Wine – originated in the 18th century, when the island started exporting wine to the rest of the world. They found that the wine that wasn’t sold and was returned home was much more aromatic and flavorful than when it first left the island. We have tried this wine here and at home and we aren’t big fans.
Poncha – A traditional alcoholic drink made with aguardente de cana (sugar cane rum), sugar and either orange juice or lemon juice. Some varieties include other fruit juices. These were very good…somewhere better than others.
Brisa Maracujá – A naturally carbonated soft drink made from purple passion fruit juice and treated water. It was created in 1970 and was the first soft drink in the world to be made from pure passion fruit juice. I did try the original and I wasn’t a fan.
