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February
20, 2014 – Honey Moon Cove near Puerto Escondido
20, 2014 – Honey Moon Cove near Puerto Escondido
Our
cruising got off to a late start in 2014.
In past years we were back in Baja in early January, but this year our
oldest grandson, Bjorn, was married on February 1st, so we delayed
our trip until February 5th.
cruising got off to a late start in 2014.
In past years we were back in Baja in early January, but this year our
oldest grandson, Bjorn, was married on February 1st, so we delayed
our trip until February 5th.
We
arrived in Anchorage on December 8th to cold and snow, just as it
should be in December. Within 2 days I
had multiple occasions to see small grand children and Earl was sick with a
nasty ‘day care’ bug – a present from 20 month old Reese. It was the December of day care crud for us. On
the 21st I came down with the tummy bug that had struck Paul’s
family (also from day care). A few days
later, I had not only come down with Earl’s cold, but also – an added bonus-
pink eye.
arrived in Anchorage on December 8th to cold and snow, just as it
should be in December. Within 2 days I
had multiple occasions to see small grand children and Earl was sick with a
nasty ‘day care’ bug – a present from 20 month old Reese. It was the December of day care crud for us. On
the 21st I came down with the tummy bug that had struck Paul’s
family (also from day care). A few days
later, I had not only come down with Earl’s cold, but also – an added bonus-
pink eye.
Although
we never really got well that month, it did not stop us from having a wonderful
holiday season with family. In addition
to sons Steve, Brian, and Paul and their families who live in Anchorage, we
were joined by son Stuart and his family (wife Teri, daughter Meaghan and her
friend John). The weather was
appropriately snowy and we were a record 17 people for dinner on Christmas
night followed by a magic show presented by Bella who received a magic kit for
Christmas and songs from the movie Frozen by Amelia dressed as Elsa. And the 7 Mexican princess dresses that I
bought as Christmas presents made a big hit from Alaska to Oregon, California
and New York.
we never really got well that month, it did not stop us from having a wonderful
holiday season with family. In addition
to sons Steve, Brian, and Paul and their families who live in Anchorage, we
were joined by son Stuart and his family (wife Teri, daughter Meaghan and her
friend John). The weather was
appropriately snowy and we were a record 17 people for dinner on Christmas
night followed by a magic show presented by Bella who received a magic kit for
Christmas and songs from the movie Frozen by Amelia dressed as Elsa. And the 7 Mexican princess dresses that I
bought as Christmas presents made a big hit from Alaska to Oregon, California
and New York.
Grandson’s
Bjorn’s wedding to Tracy was held in Portland and was lovely. The bride was beautiful, the groom handsome,
and most important, they both looked blissful.
It is wonderful to have a joyful occasion to get together with
family.
Bjorn’s wedding to Tracy was held in Portland and was lovely. The bride was beautiful, the groom handsome,
and most important, they both looked blissful.
It is wonderful to have a joyful occasion to get together with
family.
Bjorn
works for Nike and got us all passes to the employee Nike store were we could
buy Nike stuff, some not yet even in stores, at half price. I almost did not go, since I am not exactly a
target Nike consumer. I would have saved
myself a good deal had I stayed home.
Nike makes things for children. I
had a ball, and, luckily, son Steve was in Portland and able to cart everything
back to Anchorage for me for the younger grandchildren.
works for Nike and got us all passes to the employee Nike store were we could
buy Nike stuff, some not yet even in stores, at half price. I almost did not go, since I am not exactly a
target Nike consumer. I would have saved
myself a good deal had I stayed home.
Nike makes things for children. I
had a ball, and, luckily, son Steve was in Portland and able to cart everything
back to Anchorage for me for the younger grandchildren.
We flew
into Cabo and stopped at Costco on the way to La Paz. They carry American beef and New Zealand lamb
not carried in the local stores. The new
highway up the west coast of Baja is now complete. It bypasses Todo Santos and makes for a quick
and comfortable drive. From the time we
left Cabo San Lucas, it was less than 2 hours to Costa Baja. We went directly to a restaurant and
celebrated our arrival with tequila and local seafood.
into Cabo and stopped at Costco on the way to La Paz. They carry American beef and New Zealand lamb
not carried in the local stores. The new
highway up the west coast of Baja is now complete. It bypasses Todo Santos and makes for a quick
and comfortable drive. From the time we
left Cabo San Lucas, it was less than 2 hours to Costa Baja. We went directly to a restaurant and
celebrated our arrival with tequila and local seafood.
We found
many of friends at the marina. In addition to dear friends John and Maria
Luisa, these include Sarah and Darrel –and wonder dog Sparky- on El Tiberon,
Sharon and Dave Davis on Cipango, John and Sharon Warren on Warren Peace, and
Gary on Cisco, in addition to our fellow Nordhavn people: Jerome and Karen on
Daybreak, Lisa and Jay on Paradise Found, and Peter and Mary Rose on
Solana. We had a very social time,
including a fabulous dinner on the Daybreak.
Jerome and Karen are from Bow – 20 minutes away from our home in La
Conner –and they are both very talented cooks!
many of friends at the marina. In addition to dear friends John and Maria
Luisa, these include Sarah and Darrel –and wonder dog Sparky- on El Tiberon,
Sharon and Dave Davis on Cipango, John and Sharon Warren on Warren Peace, and
Gary on Cisco, in addition to our fellow Nordhavn people: Jerome and Karen on
Daybreak, Lisa and Jay on Paradise Found, and Peter and Mary Rose on
Solana. We had a very social time,
including a fabulous dinner on the Daybreak.
Jerome and Karen are from Bow – 20 minutes away from our home in La
Conner –and they are both very talented cooks!
On the
9th we all celebrated John Nielsen’s birthday on his boat, Viking
Spirit. Maria Luisa had a wonderful trio
of musicians in addition to great food and drink. Some of us, (Lisa, Jay, Peter, Mary Rose)
lingered after others had left, for a mellow post party time with John, Maria
Luisa and their good friends Guy and Lolita.
We plan on going north with the boat this April and it is sad to think
of leaving behind all these friends that we have made. We can only hope that we will see them in the
Northwest in years to come.
9th we all celebrated John Nielsen’s birthday on his boat, Viking
Spirit. Maria Luisa had a wonderful trio
of musicians in addition to great food and drink. Some of us, (Lisa, Jay, Peter, Mary Rose)
lingered after others had left, for a mellow post party time with John, Maria
Luisa and their good friends Guy and Lolita.
We plan on going north with the boat this April and it is sad to think
of leaving behind all these friends that we have made. We can only hope that we will see them in the
Northwest in years to come.
The
next week we finally fulfilled a goal – to see the grey whales and their calves
in Magdalena Bay. Fito who takes care of
our boat had mentioned that he had made the trip to Lopez Mateo in one day from
La Paz. Our problem travelling on land
is that we always need to provide for Daisy, but a day trip makes it possible
to leave her behind. When Guy heard we
were going, he and Lolita decided to join us, so we rented a large car and had
Fito drive us. We also brought along
Armando who also works on the boats in the marina and comes from Lopez
Mateo. Bottom line, it is a one day trip
with Fito driving – probably not so with us driving. He drove very well – and very fast. The road from La Paz to Constitution is
excellent but it is still a long drive.
Even with Fito driving it was 3 ½ hours from Costa Baja.
next week we finally fulfilled a goal – to see the grey whales and their calves
in Magdalena Bay. Fito who takes care of
our boat had mentioned that he had made the trip to Lopez Mateo in one day from
La Paz. Our problem travelling on land
is that we always need to provide for Daisy, but a day trip makes it possible
to leave her behind. When Guy heard we
were going, he and Lolita decided to join us, so we rented a large car and had
Fito drive us. We also brought along
Armando who also works on the boats in the marina and comes from Lopez
Mateo. Bottom line, it is a one day trip
with Fito driving – probably not so with us driving. He drove very well – and very fast. The road from La Paz to Constitution is
excellent but it is still a long drive.
Even with Fito driving it was 3 ½ hours from Costa Baja.
Lopez
Mateo is a small fishing town and Armando knew everyone. One brother has a whale watching charter
business and another skippers a panga.
When Earl mentioned that he would like to bring some oysters back to La
Paz, Armando quickly found someone who sold us some, probably another relative. And when the time came for lunch, it was in
Armando’s sister’s restaurant, where we met his mother and some other family
members. We were very well taken care
off.
Mateo is a small fishing town and Armando knew everyone. One brother has a whale watching charter
business and another skippers a panga.
When Earl mentioned that he would like to bring some oysters back to La
Paz, Armando quickly found someone who sold us some, probably another relative. And when the time came for lunch, it was in
Armando’s sister’s restaurant, where we met his mother and some other family
members. We were very well taken care
off.
Even
with no local contacts, Lopez Mateo in February is incredible. There were whales everywhere. We were blessed with lovely weather (which is
probably not uncommon.) The whales were
amazingly friendly and came up close to the panga, frequently accompanied by
the calves. It was truly an
unforgettable experience to be close enough to these massive animals to pet
them. What an extraordinary thrill! By the way, the white areas are barnacles and
the pink a type of sea lice, both unique to grey whales. The pink especially looks ugly but it is
fine.
The
next day we took off for Espiritu Santo accompanied by the Viking Spirit. We had two beautiful days with the Viking
Spirit, one in Ensenada de la Raza and one in Ensenada Grande.
next day we took off for Espiritu Santo accompanied by the Viking Spirit. We had two beautiful days with the Viking
Spirit, one in Ensenada de la Raza and one in Ensenada Grande.
I have
a new toy. One of our kayaks was lost
last fall and we replaced it with a Sea Eagle inflatable two man kayak. We brought it down in a box on the plane and
I could hardly wait to try it. I
convinced Earl to try with me, and he did not particularly enjoy the
experience. Getting the seats adjusted
to provide adequate back support was not easy.
Also, one sits quite low in the kayak and I found it slightly awkward
because the freeboard is high. After a
couple of tries, I have finally got the kinks worked out. I found that by putting a floatation cushion
on the seat, I am high enough to paddle more comfortably and it seems to help
keep the back of the seat upright. It is
an interesting craft – I think it is a cross between a kayak and a canoe. It is very stable and very large- it can
easily hold three. I think we will enjoy
it in Northwest as well as here.
a new toy. One of our kayaks was lost
last fall and we replaced it with a Sea Eagle inflatable two man kayak. We brought it down in a box on the plane and
I could hardly wait to try it. I
convinced Earl to try with me, and he did not particularly enjoy the
experience. Getting the seats adjusted
to provide adequate back support was not easy.
Also, one sits quite low in the kayak and I found it slightly awkward
because the freeboard is high. After a
couple of tries, I have finally got the kinks worked out. I found that by putting a floatation cushion
on the seat, I am high enough to paddle more comfortably and it seems to help
keep the back of the seat upright. It is
an interesting craft – I think it is a cross between a kayak and a canoe. It is very stable and very large- it can
easily hold three. I think we will enjoy
it in Northwest as well as here.
Then we
said goodbye to John and headed north up the Sea. We wanted to revisit some of the northern
anchorages that we have loved in the past.
The first night we anchored on the north side of the spit at Amortajad,
always a lovely place. It was calm as
could be and we were surprised to hear some boats on the radio the next morning
talking about a rocky night further south.
said goodbye to John and headed north up the Sea. We wanted to revisit some of the northern
anchorages that we have loved in the past.
The first night we anchored on the north side of the spit at Amortajad,
always a lovely place. It was calm as
could be and we were surprised to hear some boats on the radio the next morning
talking about a rocky night further south.
Earl
picked up a nice dorado on the way to our next stop at Agua Verde. This fall I had acquired a delightful piece
of local art, three pelicans made of shells on a chunk of coral. Maria Luisa had admired it and I hoped to get
one like it for her. Our neighbor – Eric
on Rhiannon- told us the Linda who makes them was on the beach and he took me
over to see her. She did not have any
pelicans with her but promised that she would bring some the next morning. Her husband has serious diabetes and can no
longer fish, so they are in dire need of money.
True to her promise, the next day she had two for me. She had stayed up most of the night making
them. I happily paid what she asked and
made an additional donation for her husband’s care.
picked up a nice dorado on the way to our next stop at Agua Verde. This fall I had acquired a delightful piece
of local art, three pelicans made of shells on a chunk of coral. Maria Luisa had admired it and I hoped to get
one like it for her. Our neighbor – Eric
on Rhiannon- told us the Linda who makes them was on the beach and he took me
over to see her. She did not have any
pelicans with her but promised that she would bring some the next morning. Her husband has serious diabetes and can no
longer fish, so they are in dire need of money.
True to her promise, the next day she had two for me. She had stayed up most of the night making
them. I happily paid what she asked and
made an additional donation for her husband’s care.
Eric
told us that the village is really composed of only two extended families and
there is a lot of interbreeding. They seem
to have a tendency to diabetes as well as some other issues. Very sad.
told us that the village is really composed of only two extended families and
there is a lot of interbreeding. They seem
to have a tendency to diabetes as well as some other issues. Very sad.
We left
Agua Verde and ran north to Loreto. Earl
anchored off the town and took me in to buy a few groceries. They have a brand new grocery store –
Leys. It is hugely larger and better
stocked then the old El Pescador where we had shopped in the past. Last year when we were in Puerto Escondido
we had rented a car and driven to Constitution to reprovision. Now, between Pedro’s store in Puerto
Escondido and Leys in Loreto, that would not be necessary.
Agua Verde and ran north to Loreto. Earl
anchored off the town and took me in to buy a few groceries. They have a brand new grocery store –
Leys. It is hugely larger and better
stocked then the old El Pescador where we had shopped in the past. Last year when we were in Puerto Escondido
we had rented a car and driven to Constitution to reprovision. Now, between Pedro’s store in Puerto
Escondido and Leys in Loreto, that would not be necessary.
 |
| Laundry sure gets in the way |
We
anchored that night on the northside of Coronado. It was a beautiful as always, and has the
additional advantage of being within cell phone range. As we were anchoring, we
found old friends – Scott and Kelly- on the Reverence next to us. They had been at Costa Baja 2 years earlier
and, the first year we were here, they had rescued our dingy when we let it get
away from us at the hook at San Francisco.
We had a good time reminiscing with them over drinks.
anchored that night on the northside of Coronado. It was a beautiful as always, and has the
additional advantage of being within cell phone range. As we were anchoring, we
found old friends – Scott and Kelly- on the Reverence next to us. They had been at Costa Baja 2 years earlier
and, the first year we were here, they had rescued our dingy when we let it get
away from us at the hook at San Francisco.
We had a good time reminiscing with them over drinks.
Early
the next morning we took off for San Juanico.
Earl wanted to catch some fish but the sea was odd. We ran across red tide for the first time
here. He pulled in his gear and we made
directly for our anchorage.
the next morning we took off for San Juanico.
Earl wanted to catch some fish but the sea was odd. We ran across red tide for the first time
here. He pulled in his gear and we made
directly for our anchorage.
San
Juanico is one of our very favorite places.
It is one of the most beautiful anchorages in the Sea. It is very large and has unique rock
formations. We enjoyed two nights
there. The first night, we turned on the
blue underwater lights and were treated to a somewhat creepy sight. There were tons of 3 to 4 foot long trumpet
fish. They looked like snakes and were
so thick the water was almost solid with them.
Juanico is one of our very favorite places.
It is one of the most beautiful anchorages in the Sea. It is very large and has unique rock
formations. We enjoyed two nights
there. The first night, we turned on the
blue underwater lights and were treated to a somewhat creepy sight. There were tons of 3 to 4 foot long trumpet
fish. They looked like snakes and were
so thick the water was almost solid with them.
The
next day I went kayaking (or Kanoe-yaking as I call it) and swimming and then
we invited our neighbors over for drinks.
Doug and Linda on the sailboat Que Linda were great fun company. They are from Bend, Oregon but have spent
much of the last decades sailing and have a vast amount of experience. They had
bought Que Linda in Florida and spend many years on her initially in the Bahamas
and then alternating between Columbia and Panama. They had brought her up to the Sea in 09, the
same year we came down. We will hope to
see them again.
next day I went kayaking (or Kanoe-yaking as I call it) and swimming and then
we invited our neighbors over for drinks.
Doug and Linda on the sailboat Que Linda were great fun company. They are from Bend, Oregon but have spent
much of the last decades sailing and have a vast amount of experience. They had
bought Que Linda in Florida and spend many years on her initially in the Bahamas
and then alternating between Columbia and Panama. They had brought her up to the Sea in 09, the
same year we came down. We will hope to
see them again.
Yesterday
we went fishing hunting again. Earl
really wants a marlin, but it was not to be.
Nevertheless, it was a special day.
The sea was glassy. We passed
several large groups of seals, sun bathing or taking a siesta or maybe both. They did not even move when we came by. Later in the afternoon, we came upon an
enormous group of porpoises, pelicans, and other sea birds frantically feeding
on a large group of bait on the surface.
I have never seen anything like it before. To my surprise, it did not provide Earl with
a bite, but it was an unforgettable sight.
we went fishing hunting again. Earl
really wants a marlin, but it was not to be.
Nevertheless, it was a special day.
The sea was glassy. We passed
several large groups of seals, sun bathing or taking a siesta or maybe both. They did not even move when we came by. Later in the afternoon, we came upon an
enormous group of porpoises, pelicans, and other sea birds frantically feeding
on a large group of bait on the surface.
I have never seen anything like it before. To my surprise, it did not provide Earl with
a bite, but it was an unforgettable sight.
Tonight
we are anchored in beautiful Honey Moon Cove across from Puerto Escondido. Tomorrow we will go into Puerto Escondido,
pick up some groceries, have a meal at Pedro’s restaurant Porto Bello, and post
this blog. Then we will slowly make our way south.
we are anchored in beautiful Honey Moon Cove across from Puerto Escondido. Tomorrow we will go into Puerto Escondido,
pick up some groceries, have a meal at Pedro’s restaurant Porto Bello, and post
this blog. Then we will slowly make our way south.
