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Sept. 20 – Levada do Caldeirão Verde Hike

“When was the last time you did something for the first time?” ~Anonymous
Today we finally made it to one of Madeira’s levadas. Levadas are man-made aqueducts and irrigation channels that date back to the early colonization of the island in the 15th century. They were built to supply water to sugar cane plantations. Today they are used for walking and are often surrounded by greenery and pass through different types of terrain. Madeira has around 200 levadas, totaling over 1,800 miles of channels that wind through the island’s landscapes. We chose the Levada do Caldeirão Verde which translates to Levada of the Green Cauldron. The green cauldron refers to the waterfall and pool at the end of the hike. Unfortunately we didn’t make it that far. The hike is beautiful and fairly flat since it follows the levada.

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Sept. 19 – Porto Moniz, Portugal

“Life is better when it’s more important to know the tide than the time.” –Unknown

After our long day exploring yesterday we decided to spend today relaxing at the natural pools in Porto Moniz. The natural pools in Madeira are amongst the wonders of the island. They were formed over thousands of years when lava from volcanic eruptions solidified when hitting the cold water of the Atlantic Ocean. The natural saltwater pools are one of the most attractive and symbolic spots on the north coast. Since Madeira is  essentially the tip of an ancient volcano in the middle of the Atlantic the strong currents and high waves make it unsafe for swimming. The natural pools give visitors and locals alike a great spot to relax after a long day of hiking or sightseeing.

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Sept. 18 – Exploring the Northern Coast of Madeira

“If you find yourself having to tiptoe around others, you’re not walking amongst your tribe.” -Tanya Markul 


We started our morning with breakfast in the yard of our Inn. The view, the service and the food was fantastic. It is so peaceful here. Today we drove west along the north side of Madeira. Our first stop of the day was at the lighthouse in São Jorge. It was very close to where we had dinner last night. From there we took in the sights wherever we could find a look out. The closer we got to the west end of the island the clearer the skies became. People have told us if we don’t like the weather where we are…just drive somewhere else in Madeira and you can find a little sunshine. It seems to be true. The clouds roll in and out very quickly.

It was a little chilly this morning. I took this picture when I came up to the room to get a jacket.

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Sept. 17 – Moving to the North Shore

“Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow.” – Anita Desai
Today we left Funchal to a place on the north shore. On the way we drove up to Pico Arieiro. It’s one of the most popular hikes on the island. It’s also one of the highest peaks in Madeira. Being at the top of this peak put us above the clouds. We felt like we were on top of the world. The full hike takes you from Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo is seven miles, but most of the trail has been closed since the fires in August. The hike is impressive; it takes you along narrow paths on sheer ridges, down mountain staircases and through rocky tunnels. We didn’t plan on doing the whole hike, but we didn’t even do what I’d thought we would. We had to park over 1/2 a mile down from the trailhead and viewing platform. Going straight up for that long was enough. Stan injured his foot earlier in the summer and hiking has been difficult. We enjoyed the view and time at the top and then returned to our car.

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Sept. 17 – Moving to the North Shore

“Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow.” – Anita Desai
Today we left Funchal to a place on the north shore. On the way we drove up to Pico Arieiro. It’s one of the most popular hikes on the island. It’s also one of the highest peaks in Madeira. Being at the top of this peak put us above the clouds. We felt like we were on top of the world. The full hike takes you from Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo is seven miles, but most of the trail has been closed since the fires in August. The hike is impressive; it takes you along narrow paths on sheer ridges, down mountain staircases and through rocky tunnels. We didn’t plan on doing the whole hike, but we didn’t even do what I’d thought we would. We had to park over 1/2 a mile down from the trailhead and viewing platform. Going straight up for that long was enough. Stan injured his foot earlier in the summer and hiking has been difficult. We enjoyed the view and time at the top and then returned to our car.

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Sept. 16 – Monte in Funchal, Portugal

“The goal is to die with memories, not dreams.” –Unknown

Today was Stan’s birthday and it was probably our best day yet on the island. We took the Funchal Cable Car to Monte to visit the Monte Palace Tropical Garden. At the beginning of the 20th century, tourists reached the mountain by steam train. Nowadays, they make the same journey from a cable car. The ride from Funchal old town to Monte takes 15-20 minutes one way, which gave us plenty of time to enjoy beautiful views of the city and its surroundings. It covers a distance of 2 miles and makes an impressive ascent of 1,902 ft.

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Sept. 15 – Porto da Cruz, Portugal

“Stop being afraid of what could go wrong, and start getting excited about what could go right.” -Tony Robbins
While we were in the planning and research stage of our trip to Madeira we watched several YouTube videos. One talked about the Santo da Serra Farmers Market held every Sunday. It looked like a great local place to check out. In reality it was packed with tourists. I guess everyone watches the same videos. The road was jammed with at least 20 large buses and 100s of cars. It’s a very small market with some great food booths and a few vegetables and fruit vendors. There was also a flea market across the street. Neat to see but definitely not worth being tied up in traffic. 

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Sept. 14 – Exploring the Southern Coast of Madeira

“If you never go, you’ll never know.” –Unknown


Today we drove west along the southern shore of Madeira. We decided to drive all the way to the end on the main road (freeway) and slowly make our way back to Funchal using the smaller more local roads stopping at places that looked interesting. The faster road goes through a series of tunnels, some of these tunnels are miles long. All the roads in Madeira are well maintained and well marked. It would be hard to get lost even without a GPS.
Do you see the cloud in this photo?

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Sept. 14 – Exploring the Southern Coast of Madeira

“If you never go, you’ll never know.” –Unknown


Today we drove west along the southern shore of Madeira. We decided to drive all the way to the end on the main road (freeway) and slowly make our way back to Funchal using the smaller more local roads stopping at places that looked interesting. The faster road goes through a series of tunnels, some of these tunnels are miles long. All the roads in Madeira are well maintained and well marked. It would be hard to get lost even without a GPS.
Do you see the cloud in this photo?
Our first stop was at the Ponta do Pargo Lighthouse. It’s an active lighthouse that was built in 1922 on top of Ponta Vigia, a rocky cliff escarpment and is 1023′ above the sea. The views were unbelievable.

The color of the water was so blue and it was so clear. Amazing!

Our next stop was an out of the way short hike to the Gorge Funda Viewpoint. We love waterfalls and wanted to check this tall fall out. We read it was 460′ high. I’m sure it would have been impressive, but unfortunately it’s the dry season and there wasn’t any water. But the view was fantastic.
We could see this little house on the cliff from the trail.

What we saw and how it looks during the rainier season.

We could see the lighthouse from this little hike.

From here we started back towards Funchal. We took small roads and found several rocky beaches and found a wonderful spot for lunch in Ponta do Sol overlooking the ocean. It became increasingly cloudy all day. So the pictures don’t show the true beauty of what we say. Every turn brought another unbelievable view.
The rocks are so large it was hard to walk on this beach.
Cascata dos Anjos (Waterfall of Angels) – we drove under this waterfall.

Ponta do Sol. The beach is so rocky they had a boardwalk to walk on and wooden pallets to sit on.   

What a view. We had our first Prego sandwich. A Madeirian traditional steak sandwich. So good. 

This is the Sol Poente Restaurant where we had lunch. If you look close you can see the blue deck we were sitting on that hung over the water.

Even with little sunshine the water looked inviting…so clear and blue.

After lunch we stopped at the Cabo Girão Skywalk. It’s the highest promontory in Europe, that juts out the side of the mountain 1,900 feet above sea level. The suspended glass platform offered incredible views of the coastline, Funchal and the town of Câmara de Lobos.  
I found this photo online to show what the area looks like.
I was a little afraid to put my phone over the side to take a picture. I thought I might drop my phone.

Looking down through the glass floor.

Looking towards Funchal.

Our last stop of the day was Câmara de Lobos. A beautiful little harbor town known as the Land of Fishermen. The town’s name means Chamber of Wolves and was given its unusual name due to the large influx of monk seals, known on the island as sea lions (literally ‘sea wolves’ in Portuguese), which used to inhabit the cove and the local caves. 

Stan and his buddy Winston Churchill. He liked visiting Madeira and spent his days painting. He would set up his easel and canvas and paint the bay of Câmara de Lobos in oil.

The boats were beautiful.

The streets in Câmara de Lobos are filled with art.

We went to dinner at a little place on Rua da Santa Maria called Galeria. Stan had Tropical scabbard fillet with passion fruit and banana and I had the  Risotto with mushrooms and truffle oil. The food in Madeira is very good and very reasonably priced. Most dinners were under $50 including cocktails.

We went to a roof top bar for a nightcap. Another wonderful view.

We ended our long day by sitting on our little patio listening to a concert in the park across the street.

Tunnels in Madeira

“Sometimes it’s the journey that teaches you a lot about your destination.” — Drake
We were very impressed with the roads in Madeira. They’re well maintained, well marked and easy to navigate. We noticed two main differences between Madeira and the USA…lots of roundabouts and lots of tunnels. Without the tunnels travel would be almost impossible.

Madeira’s mountainous terrain led to the construction of a network of expressways with over 150 tunnels and more than 135 bridges and viaducts. The tunnels are part of a free expressway road network that circles the island. The tunnels are not straight and flat, and can have steep climbs, tight turns and turn offs. The longest tunnel is almost 2 miles long. The tunnels may look modern, but in fact they were built between the 16th century and the 1940s.  

See how much mountain is above some of the tunnels.

Most of the tunnels were lite well and always very clean.
Just a few pictures of the roadway. (photos from the internet.)
One of the pretty roundabouts.